Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinK
Kind of what you ar saying is that back flushing is nothing more than allowing the full amount of water go in and out of the housing.
This in turn would mean that in my case I have to gust cut the line (out) directly behind the housing of the RO and put a T in with on one side a little tap
Open this new installed tap, and it flushes ( bypassing the DI, and the flow restrict or)
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That's it in a nutshell, yes. Nice way to put it rather than the novel I wrote & a very good idea/solution if you don't have the combination restrictor/bypass valve. But to reiterate, it's not considered 'back flushiing'. Lose the word 'back'.
EDIT: One more thing worth mentioning with regard to flushing. Keep in mind that as long as your system is running, including flushing, your carbon block is still stripping chlorine from the water. This is one reason I'm not that keen on the automatic flush systems that flush for a few minutes every hour or so while the system is running. It means you're using up carbon & sending more water down the waste line. You have to weigh the pros & cons, do the math. More waste water vs a 'possibly' cleaner RO housing. Manual flushing for a minute or two before & after each run seems to work well for me, but then again, I haven't opened my membrane housing because the membrane is still good after 3 years & production hasn't dropped significantly.