Certainly your output TDS is an indicator, but it also depends on how your system is put together (how many stages, pre filters, rating of the membrane etc), the TDS of your source water & how you run it.
If you have clear pre filter housings you have a visual indicator of how those are doing & being relatively inexpensive, they can be changed more often without worrying whether they are completely clogged or not. The more pressure (within specs) that your membrane sees, the better & clogged pre filters, including the carbon stage(s) all drop the psi before it gets to the membrane.
I use two pressure gauges on my system, one at the source showing house pressure & one at the RO membrane (after the pre filters). Whenever I run the system I keep track of the difference between the two pressure gauges. Once the split rises by a given amount, usually 3-4 psi, I change the first stage pre filter, a 5 micron. I run a 1 micron pre filter after that, followed by the carbon block which is rated for a throughput of thousands of gallons. I only recently changed the carbon black after a couple of years of use. Also keep track of total gallons through the system to give an idea of when the carbon is getting close to it's rated capacity. Just in case, I keep a swimming pool test kit handy that has strips which include chlorine detection.
A few months ago the TDS out of my DI stage started showing 1, so that's when I changed out the DI media & also the carbon block, since it was nearing it's rated thruput. I'm still on the same RO membrane since buying the unit new almost 3 years ago. With 210 TDS tap water, the 75 gpd membrane still gives me 1 TDS out 3-4 minutes after start up.
|