View Single Post
  #9  
Old 01-10-2012, 09:46 PM
mike31154's Avatar
mike31154 mike31154 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Vernon
Posts: 2,073
mike31154 will become famous soon enough
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by MKLKT View Post
If you read through to the end of MKLKT thread, you'll see my somewhat modified version of the gravity fed idea. I use a pressurized 7 gal glass wine making carboy to transport the top off water to my display since I can't elevate it above the tank safely & don't have a sump.

While nothing is 100% fail safe it makes sense to me that the fewer components there are in any system, the fewer things there are that can go wrong. A well thought out DIY ATO can be as safe or safer than any store purchased solution. The more components you add to a system, the more complex it becomes with additional failure scenarios & a better understanding of all the components is subsequently required. The what ifs suddenly become a lot more hazy to figure out.

My pressurized system is not pretty to look at sitting next to the display, but I could disguise it if I had the ambition to do so. My hang on skimmer is even uglier to look at. In any case, my DIY ATO has been working without issue for at least 3 years. If I had the gravity fed option I'd switch in a second, since I could lose a timer & air pump in the process. Two more things that could fail whereas on a plain gravity fed with mechanical float valve, realistically there is only 1 component that could fail & that's the valve. If you check it from time to time, that should never happen. I use my ATO to add calcium, alk & magnesium & the float valve has never shown any sign of gumming up. With pure RODI running through it every second bottle, any build up gets flushed thru pretty quick. The 7 gal carboy keeps my 77 topped up for 7 days. Lucky numbers!

EDIT: Forgot to add one thing. I've never felt comfortable cutting into an extension cord to DIY an ATO with electrical float switches. That just scares the crap out of me. Sure, the float switches may be rated to handle the current, but the bottom line is you now have the potential of 115 VAC sitting in your tank water. If there's ever a short in the float switch, you better have a GFCI that works. If you're going to go that route, use a relay to run the float switches with low voltage DC. The 115 VAC would be used to provide power to the pump & the control circuit through the float switch would be 12 VDC to activate the relay. A whole lot safer that way.

Like so type, not my graphic, but it's a dandy.



Pretty slick huh? But look at all the components. A failure of any one would cause it to no longer function. Now imagine if you will, elevating the top off container above the sump & controlling the flow with a simple mechanical float valve. Not nearly as many things to screw up & the added benefit is that the top off is an almost constant trickle. No waiting until the level in the sump drops to activate FS1 starting the pump & top off process. No electrical power or gizmos involved. To me, if you have the room, gravity fed is a no brainer.
__________________
Mike
77g sumpless SW
DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=82206

Last edited by mike31154; 01-10-2012 at 10:37 PM.
Reply With Quote