Quote:
Originally Posted by lastlight
I never bother leaving pipe gaps but this is good advice. I don't bother with unions but I do buy schedule 80 true union ball valves. they'll turn smoother much longer than the crappy white guys and you can disconnect the plumbing where the valve is.
When do you really need to disconnect everything? If you want to do so make sure you're able to turn the entire lower leg of plumbing otherwise the threaded connection won't be much good.
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Please take Bretts advice... I had the cheapy ball valves, and just a couple months ago, I had to cut apart my plumbing as one ball valve actually broke at the handle. Kinda scary, cutting things apart, as plumbing was also cracking when I tried to cut. Got it all put back together with the good valves as Brett stated, with also unions, for easy access, replacements, etc.
I only replaced the return plumbing valves, but the drains are still the cheap ones. I don't ever turn them, but use to adjust them for flow... But you can see that the handles are bent, as they never turned easy, and as time went on they got worse. They now run full open, and I will only turn them if in an emergency, but I do see myself replacing these also one day.
Don't cheap out!