Quote:
Originally Posted by fishytime
ok......lets start thinking in a different direction here....lets stop trying to "band aid" the problem and try to figure out whats causing the problem  .....cyano is caused by 1 of three things.......an excess of nutrients (so we look at our bio-load and what and how much we are feeding)......old bulbs (as bulbs burn the drop in "K" value, becoming closer to that of natural sunlight).....and lack of flow (which can be corrected by either re-directing or adding more flow)....
CS is not a cure all when it comes to cyano or diatoms, but it does seem to help (for me anyway) some of the other benifits are as stated, water clrity and also it acts as a biding agent for foods that will either be skimmed out or assimilated (KZs words),,,,,I try to steer people away from "chemical" solutions before trying to figure out whats causing it |
That's the perplexing part, all of the things you have mentioned aren't a factor in my last outbreak. My Nitrates and Phosphates are zero (I run Biopellets and have been for months), my MH bulbs are Phoenix 14k about 2 months old running 8 hours per day, my T5's are New Gen running 12 hrs per day, I have more than enough flow in my 150 Gal with 2 MP40's at full power and two Koralia Evo 1400 pumps, since the outbreak I even installed my Tunze 6055 in the front just for the extra flow. I have also been moving my Evo's around to eliminate any dead spots. Trust me I have read everything I can find, and the common causes you mention have all been considered but these things are in check. I did have a controller fail and as a result overheated my tank and overdosed two part causing an awful swing in PH. I'm thinking the rapid change shocked the tank resulting in the bacteria bloom. If that is what caused it I think my biopellets picked up the nutrients because I have no N or P (I checked with both Salifert and Elos). I understand that what you are saying is correct but it doesn't explain my problem.