Here are your pics. Get yourself a
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Quote:
Originally Posted by linzld
Here is what I have running in my 40 gallon tank:
4 X 24W T5 bulbs (there are two full spectrum bulbs, an actinic blue marine and another but I forget what it is called) for a total of 96W. Two of the bulbs I have had since I started the tank in January and I added the second set of lights in April. I was running them 12 hours a day but have been cutting back more and more as I have been unable to solve this problem. I have an Aqua Clear Powerhead that runs 270 US Gallons per hour. I put wool in the filter attachment last night to help manually remove some of the suspended algae. I also have a Koralia 400 GPH circulation pump. I have a Remora Nano skimmer and a hang-on refugium in which I have mineral mud and cheato and a mesh bag with carbon. I use tap water for my water changes.
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First of all please read
A Guide - How to get rid of Hair Algae. Find the link in my signature. A lot of the phosphate and nitrate control tips would be very good for you to go over.
I understand (from your email) that your tank is currently in a dark phase. Be sure that there is ZERO light penetration. Absolutely zero light peeking in from anywhere. I mean, not even a half dim spot! If it isn't 100%
pitch black, then your dark period is of absolutely no use. Once you get it 100% pitch black you need to leave it that way for 36 hours with NO PEEKING, don't feed the fish. The fish and corals will be just fine, your skimmer will provide them with enough oxygen. The best way to do this is to use a couple of dark sheets to cover the aquarium making sure it tuck it in on the sides. If you have a sump all the tubing, and the sump has to be dark too. None of the water at ANY TIME can be in the light.
The point of this pitch blackness is to kill the algae obviously, and if you peek or there is any light peeking in at all even for a second or two the algae will "revive". It basically "resets" so to say. It is best to do a large (say 75%) waterchange just before the blackout period, and then another large waterchange right away after opening the tank back up.
I bolded your statement about using tap water. I think this is either the key, or at least a very large contributing factor. Try
www.bulkreefsupply.com for an RO/DI unit. They are very reasonably priced, the shipping is cheap, and the brokerage charges are very cheap. Check out their shipping policies.
Also, does your tank receive any natural light? If it receives any natural light at all be sure to block it.
How quickly is your chaeto growing? How big is your refugium? How many watts of light over it? What is your lighting schedule for it?