I feel I've tried ever product claiming to rid parasites, ich or Velvet, just in the hopes it would actually work. Ordered products we can't get here, tried capsules, liquids, mixed powders from the pharmacy & vet, talked to other reefers in the states, researched & researched, tried both coppers, series of FW dips, tried the cleaner shrimp, tried the garlic trick, then ginger, then this method I use. Over the years, as most of you already know, I treated sick fish for people. You should of seen my place, tanks & tubs filled with peoples sick fish. I even admit I would buy a sick fish, just to try to save em. I did it out of the kindness of my heart & anything to save a fish, especially a boxfish or a puffers (my fav) & one of the hardest to treat (scaleless). Over the last year, I totally burnt out. Stop helping out. Finally I would like to share the NATURE method I have been using.
If you’re Powder brown is completely covered in ich. He's already in his last stages of life. A freshwater dip will stress the fish and only the mature parasites (after 3-7days) will fall off, leaving TONS left on the fish. Then after your FW dip your adding your stressed fish right back into your free swimming parasite infected tank.
Over the years I have discovered a nature method, that can bring just about any fish recovered from ich or velvet, providing the ich or velvet hasn't already affected their gills and that your dealing with one fish at a time. This method is time consuming, requires close monitoring and consists of lots of water changes.
Here is the steps:
Transfer & Darkness method. I also like to call it "Skipping the Parasite." But it works. I use this method time & time again.
1. For the time being, make your tank DARK! Try for No light at all! Darkest you can. As Ich torments after hatching
swim towards the light to find their host (your fish). It also calms your fish while he's trying to recover too.
2. Get a CLEAN & DRY Lg. saltwater bucket (Rona $4.99) or 36L dark Rubbermaid container (Walmart $6 bucks).
3. Fill with CLEAN R.O water (not from your tank)
4. Then mix salt to your R.O water to match the salinity of your main tank. It’s best to use a refractmeter. Which
ever works best for you.
5. Add a heater & aerate using a bubble disk.
6. Make sure the temperature matches that of your main tank. I find the digital probes (cheap $12) Thermometers
are handy.
7. Keep this bucket setup in a room that can be left DARK.(basement?)
8. During transfers, never use a net to capture the Tang & never expose it to air. Always capture it under water with
a small plastic container. You can use nets underwater to trap the fish in the container, but no net capture. You
can then spill back most of the water after you have capture the fish & carry it over to the ready made
bucket/container.
Now the concept to this is this... ONLY one fish per bucket. That way you can control the parasite lifecycles. If you HAVE to you can have more fish in a tub (Not Recommended) as the parasite lifecycles are all different per fish & the transfers have to be extended way longer, tub transfer done everyday. Remember the bigger the tub/bucket the more balanced the water will stay untill it turns. Don't use small containers or a small bucket.
You can not share any tools, water or equipment from the main tank that has ich. Between transfers, if you decide to use the same equipment, then it must be washed & dried between uses. It's best to setup a series of buckets/containers so your water is all the same. You need at least two buckets/containers going at one time.
THEN...You transfer the fish to the bucket, closely monitor tank. Test for ammonia, PH, Nitrates. Feed fish ONLY once a day, small amount, NO Nori or flake foods, it polute the water faster. If you like, you can soak frozen foods in garlic & ginger. I try not to do this because it will create a film on your water surface. Make sure to take any uneaten food out.
Now.. if the fish is HEAVILY infected.. Transfer EVERYDAY to a new bucket/container. You do this for a series of 12-15 days (velvet treatment longer). By the 5th to 7th day, you will be amazed. You'll think its gone, BUT keep going. You’re skipping the parasite, leaving the ready to hatch ich behind. Understanding the life cycle of the parasite gives you a better understanding and is key.
PLEASE NOTE: Once this fish is through the 12th transfer (best to make yourself a detailed time schedule), iF you add this fish back to the main tank thats got other fish in it still that have not been treated, it will continue to get ich. To kept control ich, a UV sterilizer will work to help "CONTROL" free swimming parasites, but it’s not a cure. Reducing stress and helping to build the fish immunity with good water conditions, not over crowding with too many fish and providing the tang with lots of rock to develop its own personal space, helps. This "Transfer & Darkness" method I provided can be ONLY used for cure only if the infected main tank is left to fallow (no fish) for 30-45 days. This is the same concept for treating with copper, which is hard on tangs. But again the main tank has to fallow without fish for 30-45 days.
A good QT method for others is... If you just purchased a fish that you see may or has ich or velvet. Before placing in your main tank, use this method. Get your bucket/containers setup before you pickup your fish, then providing your water quality is stable, you can transfer every 3 days. Again if the fish is heavlily infected, transfer everyday. After the full treatment (12-15days) you can then add your parasite free fish, to your parasite free main tank.
If you have any questions, you are welcome to PM me.
Hope this helps you.