well, when comparing PC to T5 lighting, T5 lighting, when done properly, beats the crap out of PC. PC tubing is thick and doesn't lend well to reflectivitiy. Couple that to the fact the U shape to the bulb hinders reflectivity further.
HO (high output) driven T5's output light comparable to a 250W MH setup, considering they don't have shadow areas.
Bulbs such as white, and aquablue have high PAR values.
I have an 8 bulb, 4 foot sunlight supply teklight fixture over my 120 gallon, and it's so intense, I'm considering swapping out some of the white bulbs with the lower PAR actinic 03's. The light's quite intense for my softie/LPS corals. Overall, I'm quite pleased with my choice. I was comparing T5's to metal halide lighting, and I'm glad I chose the T5 route for it's power efficiency, and the ability to get exactly the colour I want.
Just remember, if they're not HO driven, and don't sport individual reflectors, then they're not really an upgrade over your PC lighting. ie: coralife T5 fixtures are a waste of money.
They do cost more to operate, losing their CRI at about 9 months, and a substantial ammount of their PAR. T5's have shortened lifespans, similar to HQI metal halide bulbs. Expect to change them every 9-12 months.
Oh and I'm leary of solaris lighting as of now, because I wouldn't want to spend $2000 on bulbs. That's a large part of the cost of the unit, and what happens when they improve on those LEDs in 2 years? I forsee them having the devaluation plague new cars have.
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Everything I put in my tank is fully dependant on me.
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