[Funky_Fish14]

Im not sure on exact sump size yet, but likely 22" front to back, 16" tall, and im not sure of the length. Im in design stages of the main tank ATM, will probably get into stand design tonight and see what length we have to work with. Since this pump is in-line(so it seems), I will need extra length in the stand for it. Im not sure the dimensions of the pump(will be getting them soon). I will try to make the sump 30" long, it might end up around 24" however. Will likely have 12"-13" of water depth in it.

My overflow will be coast to coast style on the rear, but will be 8" from each side of the tank, and stick out 3 inches(20" is two more inches than required for 1200gph of flow), while being 4" deep. I will likely have dual 1 1/4" drain pipes for the overflow, I MIGHT go 1 1/2" if I get the larger pump size.

Actually, now that I think about it, I may increase the tank's front to back width by an inch or two, due to the overflow sticking out a bit.

I could go with the 800gph version of the pump, and still use dual squids, or use a gate/ball valve on the larger pump to hold it back(add 'head' pressure) cause I would still like a little more than 400gph out of each head, and go with the 1150gph pump. Not sure if this would stress the pump though? But thats what head pressure does and I believe this is pressure rated. If I were to do this, would I put the ball valves just before the current enters the tank, or just after the pump output?

I guess I've rambled on enough. Thanks for the help!

Chris

Edit: In terms of current, I want this turnover rate, because I've been dissatisfied with the amount of water movement and two dead corners in my current tank. Im also not sure if I want to add a CL instead to fix this problem or not. Thanks.