I meant they look good. Sorry if I wasn't clear.
Ok, here's the thing. If there was ammonia in the tank, the SPS would be dead, really that's pretty much the be-all end-all. They may tolerate it for a very short period of time but even then you would not see polyp extension. It would not take long for RTN, STN, and just general recession. So yes, I was saying your tank looks good.
Now, a bit more to add to what Andy said. The basic idea is that ammonia is produced at a certain rate, but it is also quickly consumed by bacteria at a certain rate. In a cycled system, ammonia is consumed at the rate it is produced -- and in this case, you would not be able to test for it (i.e., zero reading). If you did get a reading, it means that it is not (yet) being consumed at the rate it is produced (i.e., still cycling, or tank crashing). Similarly for nitrites, it will be consumed at the rate it is produced, and thus should be a zero reading in a healthy system.
Nitrates and phosphate are a different beast. The bacteria that consume NO3 require different conditions so that is why you frequently would get a NO3 reading in a system because it is difficult to establish the colonies/populations you need.
Similarly, sometimes you might see people fighting problem algaes all over the place -- cyanobacteria, diatoms, hair algae, bryopsis, etc. etc. and they test for PO4 and yet get a zero reading. It's not that there "isn't" PO4 per se -- it's that it's consumed by the nasties at the rate it is produced -- thus baffling the aquarist wondering "what the heck is going on." Getting a little on a tangent here though, point being that if consumption equals production then you don't get a buildup.
Getting back to my original point -- I highly doubt you have ammonia in your tank. A quick glance tells me your tank is doing OK. Thus, I suspect the test kit is giving you a false positive.
I'm not sure but I think I've used the test kit you're using and have noticed that for SW I would also get a nominal reading. If you're really concerned maybe see if you can pick up a Salifert test kit but if it were me I wouldn't bother -- in an established tank there's rarely any need to measure ammonia. Only if you suspect your tank is crashing for whatever reason. IMO the most important numbers to track are NO3, PO4, Ca, and Alk. There are others but to me those are the "big 4."
HTH