Reef safe Solenoid valve. WHere to get them??
 

I'm building a PLC controlled ATO for all my tanks. The goal is to have independent RO/DI fill control for my 4 tanks out of a reservoir, and control the RO/DI unit to auto flush and fill the reservoir. The Float switches I have seen, and aquired before on Ebay(If anyone has a bunch to sell, I'm looking) But where am I to get 120V solenoids that will be reef safe??? I estimate I will need atleast 6 of them, so hopefully they are not $50ea+ LOL

Thx for your help

I used a sprinkler controll valve (for automatic sprinkler systems) picked up at local plumbing shop for $25.00 only runs on 12v dc works like a charm (all plastic, no metal) best part is it needs power to open so if anything fails it fails to the closed position avoiding floods or pumping too much water into your system.

Why not use low voltage inputs or magnetic switches to the PLC and 115 outputs out of the water.

Which PLC.

I have a Siemens LOGO I want to run for the water sys. Working on a AB SLC500 for the main tanks lighting etc too, Mayby, maybe Omron, I dunno. I just don't feel the need to have to run relays and a separate 24v elec sys for in tank stuff. Space is ALLWAYS a premium, that most people know. All the pumps are 110, the float switches, well, the ones I have are sealed really well, no worries on voltage leakage. I will be controlling 4 tanks ATO and the Res Fill /RO unit off the LOGO controller.

IF 24v are substantiallly cheaper, then I may put in a rack of relays.

Don't LOGO's typically run on 5v to 24v inputs? I use prox switches rated for those parameters.

*tagging along*

I'm interested in reef safe solenoids for a different reason though... I may want to use them to do a surge system. Can anyone post a link to some reef safe solenoids if they've seen them online?

LOGO's are either 12/24 or 120/230. I got a 230 RL for a steal on ebay. Might have some more 230 RC's coming too. RC's have a clock and calender in them. You could do Lighting cycles with a RC. Thats the next plan :D

so why not just put in a GFCI breaker to supply the solenoid power supply....and done....or am I missing something?

check these guys out.....

http://www.ascovalve.com/

Thanks, very helpful... I don't think I'll be able to find a 1" solenoid for corrosive fluids though :wink: They do have a 3/4" one but part of the housing on it is brass.