Boom's 60G total Reef
 

pump
 

quiet zone pumps are good pumps thats what i ve used for 3 year on my uvand return dont hear them at all

Here is my check list of things to do still.
1. Buy sump tank, and put baffles into sump.
2. Buy overflow box, and hook up plumbing.
3.Decide and buy return pump, and hook up return loclines.
4. Hook up lights to hand over tank.
5. Paint back of tank.
6. Buy remaining equipment.

Equipment list
1. AGA 60G check
2. Custom DIY stand check
3. 60 Pounds of sugar sand.
4. Lumen Max 3 pendant check
5. 250W Icecap electronic ballast check
6. Hamilton 14k bulb check
7. Euroreef Rs100.
8. Return pump??? quietone 4000H or mag 12
9. Overflow CPR CS102 or Cs150 Model, not sure which one, but i want it to handle enough flow, if someone could really help me with one i need, that woulbe be awesome, cause im kinda stuck on this, as ive never had a sump before.
10. 2 Koralia 4 powerheads. one check
11. Misc other things , that i will get after i have set up the tank for a while.such as night leds, phosban reactors, ph and salinity monitors.

Well for my sump i want to go 36" long and 12 wide, with 16 to 18 high, but im not sure how much gph i need on the return pump to get some good flow. im going to have 4 locline returns, so i want to get good pressure out of each of them. any ideas?

and also does anyone want a frag of these for cheap, i want to get an idea how many people in edmonton would want some.

So after looking over Jdigital's tank journal and finding a link to an overflow set up, it made me think about what i was doing i was going just to use a CPR overflow box, but i really dont want to much sound, and im not sure how noisy these things are. im also limited to not drilling my tank, so is there really any other options out there for me, please chime in anyone thanks.

How much flow do you want through your sump? Figure that out first and then you can determine which pumps would be suitable! I'm using a Hydor Seltz L35, and it's only giving me about 250GPH through my sump....which is great for me :)

The tank looks great, btw. Very nice attention to detail.

i think i want to get around 600gph (being the low end) to 800gph. im leaning more towards the 800gph, and the rest of the flow is powerheads 2x koralia 4, i also have a Kora 2 that i might use to for any dead spots. also does anyone know if this is a good skimmer or not? http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/Protei...duct_info.html
It's rated for 125G but with my sump it will only come to a 90G system, and im guessing that heavy stocked it can handle from 60G to 80G somewhere in between. any help would be great thanks again.
The build has come to a slow creep now. Ive been to walmart to get krylon fusion white and they never have it, always all the other colours. My back and my tubing except the lighting supports will be white, even plan on painting my locline white to blend in. ( they are black to help with algea, but im ok with that for the over all look). so waiting on that to paint the back and planning out my plumbing as of now.

are you able to get the glass cut? because you could get a wier cut into the back panel of glass (I'd go 36" long) and then an external glass overflow box. I was given the idea over on RC... seems good, would be real easy with your tank due to that fact that there is no framing around the top to deal with... I'm sure any Speedy Glass or something could cut the weir (and glass overflow panels) fairly cheaply for you..

what is a weir cut? could you show me the link to that forum thanks.

Well ive finally gotten the spray paint i wanted, and it is currently drying need one more coat, then i will put it on my stand, and hopefully i will have pics for tommorow to see what it looks like. Ive decided to just build my overflow, because i can then make it custom and it will be cheaper than buying one, why not everything else is diy, why not that. some designs on that later.
Here are some pics of my finished stand.


Stand Specs
54"l x 18"w x 37"h
2x4 frame for support with birch plywood, Custom made doors (hahah by me)
and again i made this all including the doors with just a jigsaw, mitresaw for the 2x4 frame and a powerdrill for drilling holes for screws for 2x4 frame. Also the bottom is water proof in case of spills it can hold up to 2" of water, and the bottom has adjusted legs to level the stand out.

and one more pic because im trying to get the hang of it with my little digi camera. Was taken under 14k hamilton bulb( camera is a HP Photosmart R742, its not really made for close ups, i can only get so close but it does the trick)

I was never provided a pic or link over on RC but imagine a 36" long (or however long u want), 2-3" deep section of glass cut out from the top edge of the back panel... Your water level would be determined by how deep you get the "weir" cut.

when the tank level gets to that height, it pours over the "weir" and into your external overflow box, and from there everything else is as it should be.

I think it would look smooth with your tank since you don't have a pesky rim to deal with, get it cut, grind down, and polished to match the rest of the tank lip! :D

Hope that makes sense! haha!