T5 Par & Bulb Selection
 

As you can tell from my last couple threads, I'm contemplating a new lighting system! I've decided that a nice T5 set-up may be my best bet, all things considered.

I have the opportunity to buy a 36" 8x39W Tek fixture. That's a lot of light. I've read a lot about the different PAR values for MH bulbs, but haven't found much on their T5 counterparts. Does anyone have any information on that?

As well, if you were running 8 bulbs, which T5s would you choose and why?

Well, I found something on RC. But anyone have any other personal experience? Recommendations for bulb selection?

I think you found the best information on T5 par that's out there. When I ran all T5s I liked the look of 50/50 blue+ and Aquablue, but T5s are all about taste, it may not be what you like. When you order your bulbs get 1 extra Aquablue and a GE daylight so you can play with your color temperature a bit.

T5s also shift toward the red spectrum as they age a bit, so what looks good when they're new may not look good 3 months from now, so you may want to switch your bulbs a bit then.

I'm currently running 2 of the ATI blue plus bulbs, and the difference between those and the generic ones my light came with it amazing.

I had T5 lighting & thought I was happy until I just started using a MH unit . I perfer the MH system alot better, but I was only running (4) 39w. The corals seem perkyer & I like the light shimmer . Also (1) 250w HQI bulb is alot cheaper than (8) 39w T5 bulbs. Good Luck .
Mark.

some more on T5 tek light with pictures
 

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...readid=1149579

scroll down for pics
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GREAT thread. Thanks!

what a joke of a thread. if you compare PAR at center line on the bottom of the tank with either light the MH will be way higher than the T5. every T5 advocate uses the point source of a MH to his advantage to make it look like it has a lower output.

I was testing at 23" of water and 6" of air and my PAR was still over 500 with MH, the problem is if you look at the pictures it is a very unfair comparison. he had multiple T5 tubes so no matter where he measures he is right under one (take them all out and put one across the middle and see what happens to his readings. The MH is only on the middle. so if he continues to hold his meter at a 90 degree angle as he moves to the side he will cut out more light from the sensor the farther he moves of the center axis, and the same thing would be true for one florescent mounted in the middle of the tank.

so just like the old 150DE vs 400SE tests they are using the reflectors and the position of the sensor to give them the results they want instead of making it a proper comparison.

I think the very first post in that thread is the one which is the most creditable.

Steve

Yeah, but comparing a 250W MH bulb to a single 39W T5 bulb isn't the point, is it? It's comparing comparable output and their PAR values, no?

nope, single bulb to single bulb is the only proper way to compare intensity, we are not talking about coverage or average PAR or total PAR over a tank, we need to look at what is important, PAR intensity at a single point and every time a MH will win that argument.

Steve