precision marine or korallin reactor.
 

hi, i'm interested in one of these products for my 92 gallon tank but would like to get some feed back on them from anybody who owns or knows any thing about the two products. pros or cons. and which do you think is the better product.
thanks

precision marine cr422:
http://www.marinedepot.com/aquarium_...ne.asp?CartId=

korallin c-1502:
http://www.marinedepot.com/aquarium_...or.asp?CartId=

Definetely korallin c-1502:

I've never used the Korallin reactor but do have a Precision Marine 622 set up and running on my 230 that I am very happy with. Basically plug and play which suits me fine. I am setting up a grotech reactor on my new tank which is a PITA to set up but what I do like about it is that is has a degassing chamber to prevent any stray CO2 from getting in the tank. Still waiting on a couple of things for it so can't report on performance.

Hello,

I had a C-1501 and between that and the PM, I'll take the PM. The Korallin will cavitate for a variety of reasons and it's also harder to get the lid to open. The PM will be more user friendly.

Titus

Korallin Product review I had never used one so i would like to find out what do you think now after some reserch?
http://www.korallin.de/frmst2.htm

What about K2R did you consider this one?

Could cavitation be there because of too much Co2 dosed? these need only 10 bubles / minute compare to others 2 bubles / second ?

I have the PM 422. 2 bubbles a second?????? I don't think so. More like 20 bubbles a minute. 1 evey 3 seconds at least for my application. It will also depend on the demand though.

I like my pm. Very user friendly and functional.

Hello,

Um... I guess a little bit of history would help. The original C-1501 had CO2 injected before the pump whereas the previous PM designs didsn't. Therefore the claim by Korallin of a more efficient unit. Now that PM have this aspirating venturi feature as well, it would be the same.

Now, if you can control and monitor the bubble rate over an extended long period of time, say a week or so, you shouldn't have to worry about bubbles building up and eventually cavitating the pump. But you eed to make sure that bubble rate, drip rate, and effluent pH stays constant the entire time. Also, over time, you may have build up at the drip line that will slow your drip rate just so slightly to get it out of equilibrium. And don't bother trying to control the CO2 by monitoring the effluent pH with a pH controller. It won't work because CO2 will continue to bubble into the unit long after your solenoid valve has shut down. It's only good for preventing a non-stop CO2 injection after excess CO2 build up is found in the unit but won't be good for fine tuning. More of a safety measure but I'd rather just plug the solenoid into the wall.

Another problem is that the Korralin design draws fluid from the top, and the pump has its outlet facing sideways. These only helps it to cavitate sooner. The pump, need not to mention, is very undersized and the claim of not requiring a feeder pump would only work in the best ideal situation.

On the C-1501 I also had to use a screwdriver and a wrench to open the unit. It's just not that user friendly I found.

Titus

thanks for all your replies. I went with the PM 422 from J&L about 3 weeks ago. very easy to set up dont know if i got it dialed in correctly but everythings seems to bloom and looks health so i left it as is. have it dialed in as 16 bubbles/min and about 150 drip/min. ca 400-420 and dkh 14 is this too high? if so how do i lower the dkh? more co2 or more drips?
thank you