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Auto top-up help
I bought a kent float auto top up to use with my ro/di water except the pressure is pushing past the seal or the seal is no good (think the pressure though with the extra storage tank but no pump) so when i get home the sump is way past the shut off point = Does someone else sell or can i make a top off that will work the way i have it set up ie: water from ro/di system straight to the float. Or even a fix for the kent float. I do not have an area for a spare tank just for top up - I would even go for one of the auto top ups that are made to turn on a pump but instead open a gate valve - if someone knows of a electric gate valve that is salt safe.
Thanks for the look and info if you can share Cheers Rich |
I do belive this will help you out
http://www.jlaquatics.com/phpstore/s..._ID=ro-kpfshut |
excellent - thank you i will check it out
Cheers Rich |
I have been using the Kent auto shutoff system with a Kent float valve for the last 2 years and they have worked great. I use a 45G food grade barrel to store the RO/DI water. I then use a Kent float valve in my sump to keep my sump at the same level all the time.
Tom R |
Would the Kent float valve and solenoid work in my case?
My RO/DI unit is in my laundry room above my sink. Could I install the solenoid and then run the line to my ceiling and run it along the trusses and back down into my closet beside my fish tank where my water reservoir is? My reservoir is feeding my sump via a kent float valve, but as it sits now I have to constantly refill the reservoir. I would really like to automate the refilling process. I was planning on running a water line in between the floor joists when we were building the place, but then I changed my mind. Does anyone see a problem with the idea of running the line through the attic as mentioned earlier? Is there enough pressure to push it another 4' up into the ceiling and another 18' feet horizontally to the closet? |
You can run it waaaaay further than your talking about as long as it's only tube. I ran mine from the laundry room all the way across the house and up one levell. I also left an extra 20' of tubing coiled up in the crawl space so I could just pull the faucet all around that room and it works great. :smile:
BTW, I have the Aquasafe home plus unit. |
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1. In summer attics get very hot unless vented well, small lines with water sitting will allow the water to heat up. 2. In winter you run the chance (very good one at that) of freezing and splitting the line. Robert |
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Bill |
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Nemo,
The temperature is something that I've thought about too. My plan was to first see if there is enough pressure to actually run the line. Secondly to deal with the temperatures effecting the water line. The obvious thing is to insulate the line. But I'll talk to a plumber about what I can do prevent line freezing. There are options available to attach to the line to prevent freezing. Quote:
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