DIY dual overflow
 

Hey all,

Just getting into this fish tank stuff. Had our 45g running for about 6 months. 33lbs of live rock from Tonga.

The setup I have works but the HOB filter and protein skimmer are ugly and the protein skimmer is really noisy. So this prompted me to get a sump system going. Got me a Little 10g tank that I'm going to baffle off and put a refugium and a sponge filter in it with my protein skimmer

Just got The pieces for the dual overflows. The 2" abs isnt in the pics but here is the start.

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B2bo...k1Nkx3c1U/edit

till not complete but now this leads into a question about my tiny sump.

First off here is the dual overflow running (nothing glued, I like seeing it run before getting it into the system).

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B2bo...it?usp=sharing

Missing the auto-start system (hose drilled through the top of each side then connected to an air pump or powerhead)

Here is the question about the sump:
It's only a 10g sump as that's all I can fit under the cabinet. Here is a pic:

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B2bo...it?usp=sharing

Now the spacing I've written on the tape there ( 4" - 1" - 1" - 7.25" - 7.5"). The right most will be the skimmer, middle will be live rock, baffles then return pump. So the question, will this work? I need a small skimmer, was looking at the NAC3.5 Cone or the NAC6 (might fit 7.5x9.5 is max size if that whole area used). Leaning toward the NAC3.5 as it's price is more my area. Tank is a 45g and sump of 10g water volume of 50g ish I would think so the NAC3.5 would work but will it wooork.

Was also wondering if I should have some sort of foam filters to filter out large particulates that make it into the sump and where I would put that?

Thanks.

Greetings and welcome to Canreef!
For photo sharing, it's best to open a photobucket account and use the "IMG" links then the pics are right in your post, people don't have to click the links to see the pics.
Right now your pic links aren't valid :(

As to your last question, you'd be better off using 4" filter socks if you can fit them in than using foam filters I think. Easier to clean and not so much traps for detritus.

I agree with the above reply.

Also, though; why are you putting live rock in the sump? I remember being told that it was useless to put it in the sump if you already had it in the tank. Maybe some other people can give input on that?

Welcome to Canreef, btw! :mrgreen:

Well, not sure what's up with forums these days but I can't edit my posts...

Anyways here are the pics instead of links.

My current tank, somewhat blah but we can't afford all the big corals and I just killed an Acro frag with high nitrates. However my hammer is doing quite well.
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2874/9...f967cdffda.jpg

The soon to be sump
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3784/9...d1d2cbe321.jpg

Dual overflow working well.
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2807/9...1caf1412c4.jpg

From my understanding of sumps (which is low btw) the extra live rock will help with keeping the nitrates low. Should I not worry about live rock in the sump?

If those are plastic/acrylic dividers in that sump, be prepared to replace them, or have to tear down the sump to re-silicone them in. I did the same thing, and 6 months down the road all the dividers had come loose. Silicone has a very poor bond to acrylic.

If you're thinking long term, might want to consider glass baffles.

Ever considered just drilling the tank and making a normal overflow? That contraption, though it looks like it is working well, would scare the crap out of me lol. I wouldn't be able to sleep at night.

I agree with fishyfishy.
That "contraption" is scary. If the power went out and you lost your siphon, the tank will overflow. You should have separate returns for each overflow.
Here is a link for a DIY overflow

http://www.melevsreef.com/acrylics/overflow.html

Here is a PVC overflow I used when I had a refugium connected to my sump. http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...846#post794846

You need to be sure it is self priming, and can't collect bubbles that might break the siphon.

split the drain
 

i would seriously consider spliting the overflow drain into two. if the overflow gets blocked past your "T" you're screwed.... at least if they are plumbed individually you have redundancy. i have had no issues with my DIY system which is like yours but individually plumbed.

I thought of trying to build one of those instead but acrylic isn't the cheapest and I'm no good at working with materials like that. This works the same and is cheaper...just doesn't really look as nice. Hence why this is outside and I'll have it running for weeks before I allow it into the house. It works really well.

I will be doing the same thing you did, connect an air hose to the return pump to make sure that if there are bubbles that they will be taken care of. Either the return pump or some other automatic means of auto-starting the system. Cause right now it's a pain. However for me to break the system I have to pull the whole thing out of the water. It works really well, I'm surprised at how well it works.

I hadn't thought of things blocking it that far down, it goes from 1" -> 1.25" at that point to allow more flow. What are the chances of something getting past the screens and down there to a point where a 1.25" pipe won't push it through?

I've added another piece but it's pouring rain and can't show it off. I'll get more pics tomorrow.

PS - canreef forums are much better than reefcentral. They seem stuck up over there and no one wants to talk to or assist newbs... Thanks all.

I know from your other post you don't like aquagiant, but you can get David to cut you glass pieces for your baffles cheaper than using acrylic, worst case, he can build you a sump

He can also drill your tank for bulkheads

I haven't started work on the sump yet, wanted to make sure that this overflow is solid and so far I'm really impressed with it's startup. Also I've already cut those pieces of Acrylic so might as well use those. That being said, how much is glass to have cut for a sump?

So added the next step to this test setup.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7442/9...796c89f6a0.jpg

This is the part where the water drops in and the siphon is kept in check without draining the whole tank. This mock up isn't cut very well, going to have to figure out the best way to cut ABS plastic. I like the black because once it's in the tank it looks almost like any other overflow (minus the tuck tape at the bottom, that will be sealed properly). Also had to add rocks to the bottom to weigh it down. I'll probably just use sand in my main tank. Just to make sure it doesn't float up. Or any other suggestions?

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5488/9...0216c7b91b.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7287/9...897f9a17e4.jpg

You thought it was chaos before. Now it's just funny. I didn't want to buy extra pieces just for this test setup so this is what I came up with. There was a lot of wind lately so I couldn't have the water just fall into the bucket, it just blows outside the bucket then by the end of the night the pump is running dry.

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2848/9...95f0759545.jpg

Wow you sure do like to make a lot of work for yourself. By this time you could have just drilled a normal hole and made a normal overflow that will work 100%

Tuck tape. Nice touch!

But that would mean taking my tank apart, drilling it and putting everything back in. Now which is more work? Unless of course you know of a way to drill with livestock in the tank?

I'm hoping this will be just as reliable with the way I'm building it. Going to have a water sensor as well to kill the power once as a last resort. That's more of a project that I will need to figure out.

http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...272#post793272
I made this DIY water sensor with just a couple nails, solder, and some wire. Works great, even with fresh water. It acts as a switch, open when dry, and closed when wet. Then you need a device, like a controller (I use my Apex), that will turn a pump switch off, when this is on. Or you could build a relay that trips a switch on and off. Lots of ways to do it...

That looks like a sweet simple idea that could sit at the top of a tank or something like it. Do you have a pic of it in place?

I've got my overflow system outside testing and it's been running for 3 days straight. The only problem is the crap that builds up on the ABS pipe, the slits I cut. It captures everything. What can I do to solve that?

You could put an acrylic box around the pipe with slits. Say a 6x6.
If you notice, the reef ready tanks have the overflow mounted to a back wall.

The slits on my PVC pipe are only 1/4 inch, but because they are long and many with the pipe in the horizontal position, never did have any clogging problems. But if you look closely at my pic, you will see an elbow on the end with an open end pointed upward. That is the emergency overflow, in case the slits do get clogged.

That's the only pic I have. But it just taped to the floor with masking tape underneath my sumps. So if anything goes wrong, and water ends up on the floor, it shuts everything off and sends out alerts and alarms.

Hey,
So in my sump, how high should I have the baffles? I don't know where to find much information on that....In the first post I've got a pic of the baffles but don't know how high to cut them.,

Which skimmer?
 

You need to determine what skimmer you are using first. From what I've read the NAC3.5 runs best in 8-10 inches of water. Where as the NAC6 runs best in 9.5-11 inches. So your first baffle should correspond with these dimensions.

Or build the first baffle at 11 inches and raise the skimmer if needed.

Here is a good question for yall.

How do you silicone the bubble trap? 1" difference no hand can get in there to do that. I'm sorta at a loss...

Thanks.

Also, trying to find the correct silicone as from what I'm reading GE I isn't good anymore...

Found this stuff, says aquarium safe:

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3724/9...00a5abb602.jpg

Yes...I know it's white but whatever, it's a sump. I remember reading that weather shield in the green bottle from home hardware is good to go.

Ok, you're going to have to use your imagination here for a few minutes. These items are not to scale....

Cardboard box = tank

Tea container = Spacer (equal to the width of your first camber) ice-cream pail, Tupperware container, paint can whatever works as an appropriate spacer

Book = 1st Baffle of Bubble trap (assuming you are using 3)

Stand the tank up on end, place "Tea container = Spacer", position the baffle and add silicone. My attachment pic only shows to this point.

Add another appropriate sized spacer (pucks for example) position baffle #2 add silicon. Remember to use a spacer to keep the baffle off the floor of the sump. Something small that you can get out of the bubble trap once the silicon dries.

Repeat, add more spacers on top of baffle number 2 (more pucks) position baffle #3 add silicone. Now you're thinking I’ve only added silicone to one side of each baffle? True but you will have close to equal pressure on both sides of those baffles you just need the silicone to hold them upright to force the water to the surface.

Now leave it alone for a couple days, DO NOT STAND IT UP. Let the silicone cure. If you don’t wait long enough and stand it up to soon the 2nd baffle will slump and not maintain its gap off the sump floor. I know you added spacers under baffle #2 but its not worth the chance of them moving. Trust me I’ve made that mistake and had to start from scratch...

I hope that makes sense.

Oh, and I have used that silicone, well the clear, with no issues at all.

Awesome description, thanks. I first read that on my email with no image and I'm like "someone has gone off the deep end" @_o .

That's a great way to do it, rather than trying to level it all out.