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I have seen many versions of ATOs and they all seem to work just fine, I just don't get why people go to this expense for a complicated solution. I simply use float valves off my RO/DI and I wonder why more people don't go this route. You can't add Kalk this way but there are other ways. The idea of constantly refilling a container put me off the ATO path early on.

To elaborate on what I do, it's really pretty simple. I run a float valve in my sump and one in my mixing barrel that are fed directly from my RO/DI. When either my tank or mixing barrel evaporate off enough water, the float valve falls and allows it to refill to the set level. To avoid excessive cycling of my RO/DI, I have it run off an outlet on my controller set to be on for 15 minutes, 4 times a day. This timer is also a bit of a safety factor if something goes wrong. I don't touch a bucket, a tap, or anything to top off either.

I can't think of a simpler way and wonder why so many people with RO/DI setups still use an ATO. Am I missing something? I'm a bit of an automation junkie but this isn't too complicated. I'm interested to see what the consensus is.

Float valves screw up that's one big reason not to have it set up directly to an endless supply of water. I like my solenoid system dual nc valves and the boost pump hooked up to a wall type count down timer. Total shutdown every time with a very slim chance of failure. Not to mention I have a timer set for the same time that the system is running and I religiously check to make sure that the system is secure before I go to bed its to the point that I can't sleep enless I've checked. Even calling when I'm staying somewhere else for the night.

I would say ATO sensors screw up just as often as float valves. When is the last time your toilet tank violently overflowed? Even at city pressure 24/7.

The timer is the safety factor that keeps it from being a constant supply of pressurized water, and the timer is tuneable to meet your specific ATO needs, down to the minute if you wish.

I don't think twice about mine, even on 3 week vacations. A 100 GPD RO/DI can only make about 250ml of water per minute. If someone hasn't noticed that a sump or barrel is slowly filling over several days, eventually you will experience a spill of a few litres at most. Not really a big deal or risk IMO.

Is this using RO/DI? If so, what fills your storage container?

i have ro/di lines ran throughout the house so i don't need to bring out any hoses to do a top off i just open the valve to the tank i want to fill (lines are secured to the sump) and hit the timer to activate the timer on the ro system than i set a backup timer on my phone that is always on me so no matter where i am i get a reminder. each tank ive got the times down to a science as i always top off at the same mark. when i fill a mix tank up again i know how long it takes to fill and the timer even at its longest time setting wont flood it also the mix tanks are in the unfinished utility room that's equipped with a floor drain. we installed this system after flooding 1/3rds of the house :redface:. i typically dont have a storage container of strait ro/di. your system sounds rather similar to my setup just a top off has be manually started but will automatically stop after the desired amount has been dispensed.

My RO/Di is a floor away from my sump :-(

Where did you get your solenoids?

I'm having difficulty finding solenoids that are entirely plastic, no metal...

+1

autotopoff.com?

Have you tried looking on ebay? That is where I found mine.

The manufacturer of my RO/DI recommends that it run for several hours at a time. Short run times are apparently damaging or at least reduce the lifespan (or maybe effectiveness? I don't remember why exactly) of the membrane.

I've had problems with sensors, valves and solenoids sticking either on or off in the 9 years that I've been doing this. By storing a few days worth of purified water in a separate container and pumping it to my main tank I minimize the risk of over diluting my tank. I've known a few people who have overflown their tanks or flooded their homes with either poor design or neglect.

My RO/DI unit is 30' from my tank and I was able to run a water line to it so I'm not sure about what the rest of you are talking about.

I have no desire to run 50' of tubing along my basement ceiling from my RO/DI and drill a hole through my floor just to save me from topping up my ATO once a week with a bucket of water. :)

+1

it all depends on what your setup will allow. I'm sure most of us would prefer a fish room in the basement with the sump and a mixing station with the display on the main floor but theres a cost/sacrifice associated with these kinds of setups.

the guys building new homes around their tanks are able to do this with the least impact to their homes. If i drilled a hole in the floor in my living room my wife would drill a hole in my head. I did try to use a hole that was once used for a cable line but it didnt work (must have been plugged when the basement was finished.

all setups are not 100% fool proof. Those timers pooch ALL THE Time. Controllers do weird things during power surges/outages on occasion. Solenoids freeze up as well.

I use a float valve hooked through a solenoid that opens for 15 min 4 times a day. Pressure shutoff on RO unit. It's been working great for a couple years now and honestly the best thing I ever did for my tank.

+1

I'm actually Ok with my setup. My ATO reservoir under my tank holds about 8 gallons. I fill that up at the start of the week as well as a couple of 5g buckets that I leave in the living room. Once the 8g reservoir runs low I top it up manually with the other 5g buckets sitting near the tank. I pump the water up from the basement so I just need to unwind a hose. No buckets to carry (very far).

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That's essentially what I do, very low risk, easy to use, and not many parts.

To cause a flood the solenoid would need to fail on AND the float valve would need to fail at the same time. That would still only cause a 15 minute fail, the timer would need to fail as well to lengthen that.

Cycling my RO system just means a few extra automatic membrane rises per day.

Yup, same here. I have a double manual float system in one sump and a double electronic float (from autotopoff.com) in the other, both feeding directly from my RO/DI output. I have solenoids which turn on every 6 hours for 10 minutes. And the failure mode for the solenoids is in the off position.

Very simple and reliable system. And my RODI has an auto shut-off valve, so no problem with the membrane.

I have an ATO tank that holds 14 g - to fill it I do need to carry 5g buckets water upstairs every Thursday evening. I would love to have a more automated system but like others I have the challenge of the tank being on one floor and the RO/DI in the basement. I have looked at simple ways to run a line from the basement to upstairs, but there is no easy way. Also like others I am afraid that a drilled hole in the floor might result in my premature funeral :lol:. Having said this, I have found a way to automate my system somewhat - a 15 year old son who can carry the buckets of water upstairs! Sometimes this system is tough to get started, but it sure beats me carrying the buckets upstairs!

That trick only Lasts so long. Dad grabbed the valves from work I have the on the inlet side of the ro/do system so the copper valve body isn't a problem. He did find some at princess auto ( copper body). I know they make a all plastic one as well as stainless but their expensive ill see if dad remembers who makes them and the supply house to get them from. The timer I'm using I got from Home Depot. For those that their tank is on a different floor if you have a furnace vent close you could snake it up that way or have a length of hose off your ro that you pull out when you need to top up the resivior I used to do that before we renoed the house.

I run a jbj ATo with a maxijet 1200

The maxijet is in a 55g drum in my garage that's fed directly from my rodi system, pumped through a hose that goes from my garage to my living room

You know what, my Tunze ATO has never failed me... Did have to replace the pump once, but it was under $30. I like the infrared feature with the overfill float switch shut down.

Yeah, it was $200, but no fuss setup and it just works.

+1. I've got two now. Easy peasy. For the one that fills my main tank I've got it modded so that the brain of the tunze turns on an Aqueon Quietflow 8000 in the basement. The tunze stock pump had a hard time with 15 ft of head pressure.

My Tunze only failed me once. Not because of the hardware but because of the user. My output goes into my overflow and one time I was floating a bag back there and it moved the tube so it was pointing outside the tank. Once my ATO kicked on it just shot water in behind my tank until I noticed the water around the tank. Oops!

i just bought the aqua hub ato DIY, it comes with 2 floats switches one for back up, and i must say for 60 bucks it works pretty darn good just throwing it out there

The method of ATO that each of us uses all depends on a persons system, budget, involvement and ability. As stated some peoples tanks are too far away or small enough that its not an inconvenience. Others might not have it in their budget for a fancy controller to handle all elements of their system. Some might find what you just described to be too complicated and risky because they are new to this or don't have the desire to become as informed. And finally, some people just don't understand which end of the hammer to use and need for things to be plug-and-play or as simple as possible.

I started off with just an elevated freshwater holding tank and a float valve and then upgraded to a used Tunze system that I bought for $50. Fast-forward a few years and my current system is a freshwater holding tank that is automatically topped off twice a week from an RO/DI system by a solenoid controlled by my Apex. Two water level sensors are present in the sump for redundancy to stop the Apex from turning on a maxijet pump ever 30 minutes for one minute. When the water level is low enough that the pump does come on it pushes through an inline kalkwasser reactor (I have chronically low pH due to the Ca Reactor). All of this sounds pretty simple to me but when I try to explain it to a random person looking at my tank I can see that its a little over their heads. Literally and figuratively. The 1/4" line from the RO/DI runs across the exposed floor joists in this houses basement. I also employ two water-on-the-floor sensors that will trigger a text message alarm and shut off several pieces of equipment if something goes amiss.