Please explain this one
 

A person practices due diligence and quarentines a halequin tusk wrasse for six weeks in a very established 33g. He is in there with a clown fish. Both due great together, eat well, pellets and mysis. After the six weeks there are no signs of disease what so ever. I moved him over to his new home last night which is a well established 220g fish only. All fish are very healthy and there is no aggression. This morning he is swimming around, eating mysis and pellets and it looks like the other fish have welcomed him, the problem is he has some ick , is it stess of the move, will it go away, will the others get it, any thoughts?

How exactly did you quarantine the fish?

Definitely caused by stress. Is it an Aussie or from the Phillipines? The ones from Phillipines are far more prone to disease. I wouldn't worry about it much at all. As long as it continues to eat, then it will be fine. You can also add some garlic puree to the food to help boost its immune system.

defiantly stress.

It may subside quite quickly, if you can catch him give him a freshwater dip.

Add garlic to food, and add a supplement like ImmunaVital or similar to the whole system.

adding a neon goby in the system is always a definite asset also (Did I mention we have a large supply of captive bred neons in stock at all times) :mrgreen:

I would just leave him alone, try not to further stress the fish.

I, as with many, believe ICH is always there. This is an ongoing discussion, all of us with our own point of view. I don't worry about quarantining. I purchase my fish only from LFS that do their due diligence in treating, feeding and only letting the fish go for sale, when ready. These stores do exist, and I have only ever lost one fish due to disease.

Sorry to hear about your beautiful fish, I think it will be ok.

Get a UV light if you don't want to risk all you fish getting it.

Regardless whether you believe ich is always there or not, it will more than likely show up in your display tank despite your best efforts. This certainly doesn't mean quarantine procedures are useless but ultimately when you're dealing with something as common as marine ich, which can be introduced without fish, at some point you have a significantly good chance of dealing with it.

My advice is to accept the fact and not attempt to fix it. Leave the fish as is, in a healthy system with healthy unstressed fish ich will not flourish to the point of casualty, rather it will come and go in a fairly harmless manor. A UV sterilizer properly designed and sized for the aquarium is a good investment. While it will not eliminate ich completely and using it all the time is not necessarily beneficial for reef environments using it periodically as needed will help prevent large outbreaks of ich, especially when stresses are potentially high which is typical when new fish are introduced.

+1, my theory and practice as well

IMO, Ich is like the common cold for fish. If you get stressed, you get sick. If you rest up and each well, you get better. I don't think you can completely eliminate ich from your tank. After a mystery disease killed off all my fish a couple of years back, I let the tank sit fallow for 3 months... if there was ich, it should've all been gone by then. I quarantined my new fish for 8 weeks, all signs were good, so I put them in. Bam! Ich. WTF? Seriously? But after a few days it went away.

I'll only attempt a dip if it's getting really bad and not showing any signs of going away on its own. My Coral Beauty get small ich spots from time to time. I don't worry. It goes away in a couple days.

IMO, quarantine is more for the nasty stuff like velvet and worms.

Quarentined him with about 30 lbs. of live rock, lots of flow and good filteration and did 10% water changes every week, always tested for ammonia and nitrites and there was never an issue

There is your problem, a quarentine system should be void of rock and sand.

Ich can survive on/in it when not on fish

A QT system "should" be a fresh system with places for the fish to hide, using water from the DT

Everyones QT system can vary though

Good stuff, thanks for the feed back. He is swimming around and enjoying life, also eating lots. I mixed up a batch of raw shimp and fresh crushed garlic, I will feed this for the next little while and monitor him.

use a garlic concentrate mixed in when thawing food. This way the food will be soaked with it, he may not take the minced garlic

Sorry, but I disagree about not having LR in a quarantine.
ich needs a host to reproduce. without it, it will die.
after feeding on the host, it drops off and it becomes a Trophont.
it will stay in this stage regardless if there is live rock, sand or nothing at all.
it then hatches typically within 6 - 10 and must find a host within 2 days to survive.
not sure what Ken meant by Ich can survive on LR when not on fish.
if no fish host, the ich dies within 48 hours after hatching.
I would highly recommend that you use live rock in your quarantine.
otherwise you could potentially deal with spikes in ammonia and so forth.
Chances are you probably had ICH in your tank from before.
Or the Harlequin had it during the quarantine and you may have missed the signs.
like others have said, I wouldn't stress out too much as ich is in most tanks and will tyically not kill a happy, healthy fish.
trying to catch him will stress the whole tank out which will increase the chances of others starting to show symptoms as well.
just want to clarify that garlic is not a cure, it will just increase the fish likeliness to eat which in turn increases their immune system.
eating fish are typically healthier fish.

good luck

Here a good reed from www.reefkeeping.com

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-08/sp/index.php

In the Biology section has a decent explanation of the lifecycle of Ich. Also possible treatments, and how garlic can be used (section 2).
You did say you had the Tuskfish in with the clown, were they added at the same or different times.

That's not good enough. If you did not QT with copper or do the hypo routine, you could still transfer ich to your DT.

I had this happen to me last year. I normally do the hypo routine, and have been 100% successful with that. However, last year, because I was also QTing some new inverts at the same time, I couldn't do the hypo, and just kept them all together in QT for 6 weeks.

The new fish looked fine, and there was no sign of ich, so I transferred them to my DT. About a month later, I noticed some ich in my DT (which had been clean for almost 2 years) and before long I had a full blown ich outbreak. It took me 2 more months of diligent feeding and frequent water changes before the ich ran its course and subsided. Unfortunately, I did lose 2 of my favorite fish, but all the rest survived OK. Ironically, none of the new fish got ich or showed symptoms, but they were obviously carriers. Maybe they were already immune to that strain of ich.

So just QTing fish for 6 weeks, without any treatment does not guarantee anything. My recommendation is hypo, though, not copper.

Sounds like you just put the fish in observation rather than really proactively quarantine them. By my definition of quarantine (for marine ich), you need to use one of several proven ways of eradicating marine ich, like hypo/copper/tank transfer/chloroquine phosphate.
Since your tank is a fish only. It will be easy if you decide to treat ich on the spot.
And I can't stress enough of quarantining all your fish in general. There are stuff out there that are more dangerous than marine ich if you don't quarantine your fish. You don't want to loose all your fish, especially if you have a tank full of fish you have collected over the years.

You need to do your due diligence before you buy the fish. This wrasse goes to 6 or more inches and need to be in a tank more than double the sise. If the lfs knew you have a tiny tank and sold you the fish anyway return the fish to the lfs for a full credit and get something suitable for it size.

If your wrasse is eating, feed it garlic soaked foods with some selcon. Dry is better because it absorbs the garlic,
Feef very often and only garlic soaked food as the idea is to get as much into the fish in the shortest amount of time as possible.
Good luck

Originally Posted by sully08 http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/ima...s/viewpost.gif
......I moved him over to his new home last night which is a well established 220g fish only......


You need to pay more attention to what you read Naesco, unless you mean the tusk needs to be in a tank that is at least 440g :razz:

.

Shhhh! I don't think anyone else noticed.

Edited

I noticed, its my post......33g was only for quarentine

If your tank temperature is very stable(<0.75°f daily fluctuation) and the fishes are not stressed the garlic in the food may work. If you have any of the previous conditions mentioned you need to get a UV sterilizer on the tank. For a tank that size you would need a 54watt.

If it is a fish only tank, why not do hypo on the whole thing? I don't think it matters if you have live rock. Then all your fish and display tank would be clean of ich.