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Hot water through my ro unit!
One of my kids used the kitchen sink and instead of turning on the cold water turned on the hot. I thought it was off (usually they leave it off) and went out for an hour.
So I come home to a flooded kitchen and a bucket full of hot Ro/Di water. Do I consider it wrecked and order all new filters and membrane? |
If you have a cartridge style tap sound like you're getting bleed back from the hot, also you might have destroyed your membrane and DI resin:neutral:how is this plumbed exactly?
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it is hooked up to the sink he had to turn off the RO unit to use the sink. he turned on the hot and cold then turned the Ro unit back on. but what went into the unit was all hot.
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To the sink spigot
?or the cold feed? |
to the sink Spigot. Im thinking If I buy a new unit I'm going to ignore Hubby and hook it upto the cold water line.
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you should find a cold line and plumb a saddle valve like on your humidifier or a 3/8 to1/4 adaptor if there's flex tubing on the cold feed of that tap.
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Yes Ignore the hubby,that's my wife's rule of thumb!thing is She's usually right dammit
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I installed one of these valves on my cold line and am really happy with it
Also, if you don't have one, my unit came with this drain saddle setup and it works great. Just be sure you install it above the p trap |
It is difficult to hook up to a line when you live in a small place and are facing some major Renos. It is one of the reasons I have been putting it off, that and hubby argued against it, although he didn't really have a reason why not. lol
Until today it works rather well for me as it is. lol...Us wives are more clever than we get credit for. :D |
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Thank you Greg I will add those to the order when I place it. I guess I had better get on the group buy list lol.
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An air gap is usually one inch above flood.for instance if your kitchen sink overflows that water never touches the spigot.
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Sorry to highjack your thread:biggrin:
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I think I follow
I gather you meant that the height of the hose in the saddle should be at or higher than the crown before the trap arm ? Right ? I initially thought you were talking about how to put the hose into the saddle Now you've got me thinking about having the RO waste line loop up above the saddle as I do rinse frozen food in this sink |
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Nope there actually need to be a break in the drain line one inch above the sink and then falls into the ABS drain by gravity.
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Oh, I get ya now
You'd think RO suppliers would include an air gap assembly in their kits |
I've only seen the airgap criteria on a drinking water unit but the system is the same so why they wouldn't tell you that,:neutral: at least from a contamination point of view is beyond me
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as long as the drain line water is "falling" into the drain you're ok. sink ,floor drain etc.min 1 inch.
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I don't feel like you hijacked the thread at all. This all helps. If I don't do it with a new unit while living here I will be putting it to use when we move. (hopefully by summertime)
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If you need help or plumbing parts let me know,I Install these things almost daily:biggrin:
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Get a saddle valve with a valve on it. It doesn't look like that one from BRS has a on/off valve on it.
Even if you have a ball valve to shut off to the RO unit, if something happens u want to be able to shut the source off. Also don't tighten the saddle valve too much. I crimped my pipe a bit cause i couldn't see it was squeezing so hard and I have a bad habit of over torquing things. EDIT: Ignore the first 2 lines lol. didn't read that was a DRAIN saddle valve. was wondering how it pierced the pipe. |
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