Scubadawg's 187 Gallon Tank Journal - Edmonton
 

Tank Dimensions and Equipment - Photos to follow

60" x 24" x 29.5" High 5/8" glass thickness
Sapphire glass on front and sides (Chinese low iron glass - aka Starphire)
30" Weir on back, black background - 2 -3/4" returns
34" x 12" x 5" Coast to Coast Overflow
All polished edges and eurobraced with sapphire glass

Tank was customed ordered made and purchased from Aquagiant

Steel stand was made by Greg aka Grizz

Countertop (Ikea)

Sump - 75 gallon with 4 chambers

Skimmer - Deltec 2060 SC (Aquagiant)

Plumbing parts (Bulk Reef Supply)

Vertex Puratek Ro/DI (Red Coral Edmonton)

Sedra 20000 Return Pump (Red Coral Edmonton)

2 - Sicce Voyager HP 10 Powerheads

Sicce Wave Surfer Pump Controller

Apex System and Lab Grade pH Probe & Lab Grade ORP Probe (Modular LED)

2 - 60" Sunbrite F Led (Reef Supplies Canada)

2 - Eheim Jager 250W Heaters

BRS Carbon/GFO Reactor

Tank assembly - David from Aquagiant allowed me to help assemble the tank

This is the tank before silicon

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...rnal/Tank1.jpg

Polished Edges on glass

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...l/TankEdge.jpg

Assembled tank with black background

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...rnal/Tank2.jpg

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...rnal/Tank3.jpg

Coast to Coast Overflow 34" x 12" x 5" - 3 - 1.5" Schedule 80 bulkheads

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...l/TankC2C1.jpg

7 Tubes of GE SC 1200 Black Silicon later

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...l/TankC2C2.jpg

Equipment:

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...urnal/rodi.jpg

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...urnal/Wave.jpg

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/.../Sunbrite1.jpg

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/.../Sunbrite2.jpg

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...nal/Return.jpg

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...l/Plumbing.jpg

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...nal/Heater.jpg

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ournal/Gfo.jpg

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...urnal/Apex.jpg

Awesome equipments :D

I was just wondering why didn't you get MPs instead of sicce?

This is the space where the tank will go

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...rnal/Space.jpg

Steel Stand made by Grizz

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...nal/Stand1.jpg

Ikea Countertop siliconed to the stand

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...nal/Stand2.jpg

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...nal/Stand3.jpg

Tank set in place

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ankinSpace.jpg

Tank is sitting on 4 sample pieces of Formica in each corner instead of foam, bottom glass is free floating in center of tank

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...urnal/base.jpg

Waiting for a Bulk Reef Supply order for more plumbing parts, then I will post photos of the plumbling assembly

I got these from a Canreef member for a good price, so I'll try these out first, if I don't like them, then I'll go with Tunze Turbelle Stream II Controllable Pump - Model 6205 that will be controlled by the Apex.

Where did you get your PVC fittings from? I like the black/grey fittings!

Wao!! Awesome tank and equipment! definitely tagging along and looking forward to see this tank setup and thriving!!

All the plumbing parts are schedule 80 from Bulk Reef Supply, I have some more plumbing parts coming in the next couple of days, so I can do my plumbing build, majority is threaded so everthing can come apart, if neccesary, with minimal pieces glued. I will end up with extra pieces, which is going into my 90 gallon build. I will posting my 90 gallon QT build after the 187 gallon begins the cycle.

I'm jealous of all the sch. 80 plumbing. :mrgreen:

Going to look awesome once everything is together. What are your full plans with the extra counter space?

Looking good. Just wondering why you are putting the weight of the tank on the 4 corners as opposed to spreading the weight on foam?

Wondering the same thing.

I used shcedule 80 plumbing on my tank as well. I have a TON of pipe left as well as some 1" unions. If you need extra unions or pipe let me know.

David at Aquagiant builds his tanks so you do not need to use foam underneath, he advise not to use anything but support pieces in the corners, so there is nothing touching the base glass, if you look at his tanks in his store, they are only supported in the corners. Grizz is making a 72" x 24" x 32" high steel stand for David and it will only be supported in the corners.
All of Aquagiant glass that David has in stock currently is all factory polished edges both in regular and low iron glass, if you thinking of getting new tank.

:pop2:

Thanks for the offer, my plumbing is 1.5" and 3/4"

Good luck with everything. No slight against David but id have foam under it even if Jesus, Buddah and Vishnu got Together and built me a tank.

lol nice, that's true

Tank
 

Very nice tank and stuff.Also had David at Aquagiant build my tank {150 gal) and its also only supported on all four corners. Been running for a year now with no Problems.The only tank I have on foam is the 140gal acrylic.Nice to have met you scubadawg at Aquagiant today.See you again.Harry

My Bean Animal Overflow
 

Thanks for Steve at Red Coral for the advise of the PVC Cutter

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/.../pvccutter.jpg

Overflow tube on Primary and Secondary Bean Animal

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...erflowtube.jpg

The Primary and secondary overflows are locayed on the outside and the 3rd overflow in located in the middle as a straight pipe into the sump

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...beananimal.jpg

Closeup of the Gate Valve and Unions

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/.../gatevalve.jpg

My returns, complete with ball valve for adjusting flow if needed, and check valve

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/.../returntop.jpg

The setup below the tank, awaiting sump before I cut and glue the pipe into the sump

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...countertop.jpg

Next Sump photos n the next couple of days

Very nice and clean plumbing!

Very nice. Super clean set up. Following along

Will the overflow still be quiet and silent with just a stand pipe and a strainer on top? Don't you need to have it capped? Pardon my ignorance on how beananimal overflows work.

The gate value will hold the water back therefore falling onto itself making it quiet

You are correct. This is not a typical bean animal overflow. This is set up more like a herbie with another main drain.

See this website for a true bean animal

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...readid=1310585

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c3...DSC01357-M.jpg

With a strainer at the top of the open channel pipe, wouldn't air get in regardless of having the gate valve holding the water back?

Thank you for your comments, I am still a newbie at reefing, I started with a 20 gallon long tank in May, I am still learning about overflows, when I design the tank and overflow, I made it so I can make changes, this is in my living room so I wanted to keep this dead silent, so is this what I will need in my main drain?
Do I need to drill and tap the pipe to put a fitting in?

All my 1.5" bulkheads are slip

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...l/beanpipe.jpg

Does someone in Edmonton have a Beananimal setup? that I can get some advice from? Thanks

Don't get caught up trying to replicate the bean to closely, you got the right idea just need a little tweaking.

You have two options, convert to straight herbie or a modified version of beanaminal.

For Herbie:
Change the drain with the ball valve into a second back up just like the center drain.
Now just use the gate valve drain to adjust overflow water height just below the two back up drains. Be sure to test it with gate valve fully closed to insure the back ups can take full flow without tank overflowing, shouldn't be an issue but some make the back up pipe(s) too high.

For Beananimal
Change the drain with the ball valve to standpipe, durso, stockman or HGB, doesn't really matter but durso is more common.
The height of the standpipe needs to be lower than center back up but higher than primary gate valve drain.
You adjust gate valve so you get a little flow through the standpipe, with a small amount of water flow it should still be quiet but in theory not as quiet as pure herbie.
The advantage here is the system is more flexible, flow rate can change slightly and it should still be quiet, basically less need for periodic adjustment.

Here's a durso pic for ref.
http://img534.imageshack.us/img534/3761/durso.jpg

Thanks Sphelps

From my understanding I need 2 of these, one with a hole on top drilled and fitted with a pipe, the primary is a complete siphon, how low should the pipe be?

I just turned the pipe towards the outside for a better photograph

FYI: the other side I have a ball valve, the open stand pipe is in the center, because I cannot reach the center once the tank is in place

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...eananimal2.jpg

Nope that's not what you want. I'll draw a little picture for you in a sec.

This should be more clear, it's basically beananimal which is a herbie overflow with an extra drain and a standpipe.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...rt1-Sheet1.jpg

You can set the operating water level height by the height of the standpipe, it's low in this example but it gives you the idea. See previous durso image for standpipe details.

Thanks
In the original way I have it setup is exactly as your diagram except my left tube, I have a straight pipe like the right side, I do have a ball valve there, you can see it between the 2 unions, so basically I just need a T fitting for the durso.

Tagging along.
Sphelps you drawing is excellant and answers many of my questions. Thx.

Yeap that's cause I drew it up just for you. The ball valve won't serve much purpose but it's already there so no point taking it out. Just watch your heights, the primary needs to be a decent amount below your operating water level to prevent a vortex and your back up can't be too high either otherwise it won't take the full flow. Things look a bit high in your pics but its hard to tell.

In the photo of post 26 could I just drill a hole instead of using a T fitting? and put a valve there,or is it better getting a T?

Thanks
Yung

Definatly use a T fitting with a cap on the end. Think if this drain as a Durso style pipe. You'll want the air space above the water flow. Drill a hole in the top of the end cap, and put an air line/valve in the top to control air intake.

This is a breakdown of a proper one.

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c3...a/rendered.jpg
#10 - 1¼ PVC End-Cap with vent hole.
#9 - Connector made of 1¼ PVC. Glue to Tee, Teflon taped top for snug fit with End-Cap.

#8 - 1¼ PVC Street-Ell. Trim the connector for a compact design to help fit into smaller overflow chambers. Glued into Tee fitting. This is the water intake for the standpipe. Water level would be expected to be around the middle of this fitting.

#7 - 1¼ PVC Tee. Do not glue this onto the standpipe. Use Teflon tape on the standpipe for a snug fit. This allows it to be removed for height adjustment or maintenance.

#6 - 1¼ PVC Pipe. Sized long enough to get the End-Cap just about equal to the upper rim of the display tank.

#5 - 1¼ PVC Coupling. The stand pipe and reducer bushing are glued to this part.

#4 - 1¼ to 1 inch reducer bushing.

#3 - Connector made of 1 inch PVC. This should be glued into the reducer bushing. If you have a slip bulkhead, this inserts directly into the bulkhead — use Teflon tape for snug fit into the bulkhead.

#2 - OPTIONAL: 1 Inch PVC Male adapter - only needed on threaded bulkheads. You may want to attach to connector with Teflon tape to allow for a quick yank removal from bulkhead. Use Teflon tape on threads before inserting into bulkhead.

#1 - Bulkhead. The opening at the bottom of your overflow chamber to allow water to drain out to the sump. This drawing shows a threaded bulkhead.

You could try it without the tee, since you're really just putting a small amount of flow through it, it probably won't matter much. Could always add the tee later.

Don't forget about the other option I mentioned regarding a straight herbie overflow with two back ups. Would look like this:

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...ps/Part1-2.jpg

The other option is remove that third overflow pipe all together and close the ball valve. Run the piping after the valve to a hose or something you can stick in a bucket or drain. This way you can use it as a manual drain for draining your overflow and removing water for water changes.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...ps/Part2-1.jpg

I like this option the best. I would leave the second back up drain threaded so that if you wanted to drain the overflow to clean it, you would just un screw the drain pipe and re-open the ball valve to drain it. Would make for nice easy cleaning with the safety of redundancy

Hi FishyFishy

This is the original way I have it, all my bulkheads are slip fitting, the main line in the photo with strainer is with a gate valve, the center is not restricted right to the sump, the far pipe with strainer is the secondary has a ball valve.

I am ordering a T for the durso, that will slip in where the secondary is.

I designed this to be flexable.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...beananimal.jpg

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...countertop.jpg