68 Gallon Rimless Reef Build
 

Hi everyone! My name is Zee and I'm a newbie in the SW hobby. I've kept many freshwater tanks over the past 4 years and now I've decided to move on to Saltwater.

I'm planning on setting up a reef tank. I've been reading a lot of articles over the past few weeks and learning about how to start things up the right way to ensure success in the long run! Biggest lesson learned so far: PATIENCE WILL GET YOU THERE ONE DAY!!

Enough talking... Now lets get to the point.

I picked up a used setup from Craigslist in the beginning of the year and was wanting to set it up at the time but things didn't work out and it just sat in my house. Now I've gained momentum again and hopefully will carry the torch through.

So, the equipment.

Tank:
Custom ELOS Tank (36" W x 22" H x 20" D) - Rimless Starphire Glass

http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...s%20Reef/1.jpg
http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...f/DSC_2340.jpg

Stand:
The stand this tank came with is not tall enough for my liking it does not have enough space inside for a decent sump. I’ve decided to build a custom stand out of ¾” plywood after being inspired by sphelps’s stand for his 100gal build. I’m building a 48” W x 24” D x 40” H stand. The reason why its that size is because I’ll have ample space for everthing down below and I want to upgrage to a 4’x2’x2’ (120gallon) tank in the future so I can use the same stand.

Lighting:
2 x LumenMax Elite Reflectors, 250W Metal Halide Ballasts, 250W 20K Radium Bulbs
2 x T5 Actinics
These are currently installed in the Vented Canopy. Yes, the guy was using a canopy over this tank :surprise:

http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...f/DSC_2358.jpg

Here is where I’m a little confused. I want to upgrade to LED lighting. However, I don’t want to dish out the cash as of rightnow… So I’m thinking of using 1 of the MH pendants for now coupled with the Actinics T5s. Would it be okay to use that light for softies? I want corals in the tank but don’t want to kill them with too much light.

Filteration:
This setup did not come with a sump so I have to build that from scratch. I have a 30gallon tank (36” W x 16” H x 12” D) that I’m thinking of making into a sump.

http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...f/DSC_2339.jpg

I’m planning a 3 chamber sump. First for skimmer also the filter sock will be here too. Second for refugium with DSB and Chateo followed by bubble breaker and return chamber.

Also, will be hooking up the TLF Phosphate Media Reactor 150

http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...f/DSC_2362.jpg

I also have a 9W Coralife UV Steralizer. Will I need this for this setup? Or will it help me at all to keep Algae away?

http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...f/DSC_2359.jpg

Skimmer:
Warner Marine AS150 Skimmer

http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...s%20Reef/3.jpg

Return Pump:
Iwaki 30 RT Pump

http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...s%20Reef/9.jpg

This is an external pump so I still have to see if I can use this or maybe sell this and buy an Eheim return pump.

Water Movement:
Vortech MP20 unit & controller

http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...%20Reef/13.jpg

I also have two Tunze Power Heads and a Koralia 4 to supplement the vortech.

http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...%20Reef/14.jpg

Other equipment:

Spectra Pure 4-Stage RO/DI System

http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...%20Reef/10.jpg

Vertex Calcium Reactor, complete with CO2 bottle, regulator/solenoid and pH probe - I might sell this and just keep the dosing unit. Haven't decided yet.

http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...s%20Reef/2.jpg

Profilux 3 Channel Doser and three containers for supplements

http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...f/DSC_2361.jpg

Digital Aquatics ReefKeeper2 with powerstrips, PH probe, temp Probe and other stuff.

http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...%20Reef/29.jpg
http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...%20Reef/27.jpg
http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...%20Reef/32.jpg

Tunze ATO Osmolator

http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...%20Reef/16.jpg

A series of test kits (Elos), salt, supplements

http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...f/DSC_2357.jpg
http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...f/DSC_2342.jpg

Refractometer
http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...f/DSC_2353.jpg

So this is all I have at the moment. I'll be building the stand this sunday hopefully and will start working on the sump sometime during next week. I'll post the dimensions for the stand to have them double checks by the pro DIYers!

I want to hear your ideas and suggestions. I'm in the learning phase of the hobby so any help is highly appreciated.

Thanks for looking!

Nice start there. Welcome to the salty side!

Thanks Kien! I was lookin at your room divider build. That is an amazing looking setup! Great inspiration for me! :)

Looks like a great start. Are you planning on SPS by any chance?

Thanks Ashr! In the future I'll be looking into SPS but for now just some beginner soft corals. I want to get my feet wet and have some experience under my belt before moving into SPS.

might be a good idea haha

where did you get all your goodies by the way

Yeah forsure!

I bought it all as a package off of Craigslist. I think I have everything I need from beginning till I get into SPS... just need to learn to utilize it all properly. This is where all you experts come into play to help/advise me! :mrgreen:

Alrighty so bit of an update..

Went to home depot today to buy the plywood for the stand and basically got total brainwashed into making a frame out of 2x4. So back I came and took out all the trusty 2x4s and started to build the stand.

Now I have a pretty strong frame made out of 2x4s.... Its 70% done. Gonna pick up the finishing materials tomorrow and continue working on it. Planning to have it all done and ready by wednesday!

Here are a few pics..

A family friend of mine helping me out throughout the day!

http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...f/DSC_2409.jpg

Basic frame is ready!!

http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...f/DSC_2410.jpg

Another View
http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...f/DSC_2411.jpg

The scene of the garage at the end of the day
http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...f/DSC_2412.jpg

Thanks for looking!! :)

Someone doesnt look happy here, he's building stuff. look happy

http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...f/DSC_2411.jpg

not everyone likes to eat wood. Just sayin'.

lol

LOL... thats my dad. He was just wondering why I was taking pictures in the middle of everything!

Parents thinking their kids are crazy is par for the course my friend.:lol:

So a bit of an update with my slow progress. I got the stand all skinned and the top cut out to size with the hole for the overflow and return. Now just gotta get it all primed and painted.

A few questions:

is it a must to paint the inside of the stand with the Mold and Mildew resistant paint or any indoor semigloss paint will do?

Also, I'm now thinking about the Live rock and base rock. I want to have a good start but don't want to dish out 600 bucks just for rock. I'm thinking of mixing LR and base rock. Is there a ratio that works well?

I was thinking of ordering 50lbs Bulk Fiji Dry Rock from bulk reef supply and adding about 10lbs of live rock from LFS. Would this be a good mix to seed the base rock and get curing the LR as well as cycling the tank?

Also, I was out at Rona to pick up the silicone for installing the sump baffles, but couldnt find anything. Can someone point me in the right direction please!!

Photobucket is acting up.. so no pics for now :(

Are you planning on adding live sand too? If so, that ratio would be fine. It will all seed from the sand plus the 10 lbs of live rock.

Make sure to have a nice solid sand.. the worst thing would be in a couple of years after being split on with salt water and chemicals. You Don't want it to break down or rot.

It looks good so far!


PS

Get those pictures working!

Looks like you have a VERY nice start to your Reef!! With everything you have I seen no reason why you couldn't keep SPS (Lacking tank maturity, wasn't stopped people before) I would definetly start out with softies and "easier" corals.

Curious why you rebuilt the stand? The halides will do just fine.

As for your test kits and suppliments make sure you find the expiry so they arn't leading you in the wrong direction.

As for the Ratio / LF to Dead rock there isn't any amount you need, The more you use the less of a cycle you will see. I would do 20% but take a look on canreef in your area maybe you'll be able to pick up some for a cheaper price. 3lbs/ pound isn't uncommon.

Good luck, you are definetly in the right place for information and to point a finger in the right direction.:mrgreen:


EDIT: ======= As for the silicone - I would go to your LFS (local fish store) I have never had luck @ HD,Rona.

I really liked the stand it came with perhaps your new one will be even nicer. One heck of a nice setup to purchase altogether! Don't try those radiums out you'll never be happy with LEDs later on =)

I've always used this stuff with no problems:
http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMAG0081.jpg
Only one I've ever seen at a hardware store that says aquarium safe.
I have heard of some having it go a bit yellow but I've personally never had that happen. Get it a HomeHardware for $9 for a 3 tube contractor pack.

So photobucket is not back with a new site layout... so here are the pics of the stand build thus far!

Left side - Big opening for me to be able to work on the skimmer and whatever else will go on this side of the sump

http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...f/DSC_2480.jpg

Full open front for easy access to the sump and fuge area

http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...f/DSC_2481.jpg

Right side - Big opening for me to access all electrical stuff.. I'm thinking about making a small electrical cabinet on this side to keep it all almost completely away from water. It depends on how much space is left after I hook up my external pump and other things.

http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...f/DSC_2482.jpg

Another view

http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...f/DSC_2483.jpg

Installed the braces on top for the added support

http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...f/photo1-7.jpg

Here is the top, made out of 1/2" MDF with the cut out for the overflow and return pipes

http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...f/photo2-7.jpg

Right side with top on with 1/2 moulding work done - Ran out of the moulding pieces.

http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...f/photo3-7.jpg

Left side with top on with complete moulding work done.

http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...f/photo5-6.jpg

Another view showcasing the front and left side.. ofcourse not all finished yet with the mouldings.

http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...f/photo4-3.jpg

Hey Ashr, yeah I'm definately plannning on adding live sand too. I want something more on the granular side rather then plain sand just so its not going all over the water column with the flow in the tank.

I think my stand is pretty solid. 2x4s are hella strong so I hope I won't have this guy breaking on my within a year or a couple of years for that matter. All the glue and screws should do the trick. Thanks for the comments and compliments! I thrive on them!!:mrgreen:

Thanks Hazratty! The fellow I bought this tank from had it all set for an SPS only tank but decided to sell it all due to personal reasons. I lucked out there! :biggrin:

I'm rebuilding the stand because, the original stand was only good for a 20 gallon tank as a sump. That left me no space for a fuge as well as hooking up the iwaki would also be a problem in that stand. so I decided to build a new one with potential to upgrade to a 120 (4x2x2) tank!

I'm thinking of keeping a single halide for now. I want to venture into building a DIY LED light once I set this tank up and cycling. Yeah, I still have to check the dates on the test kits.. I hope they are still good or else.. that'll be another big blow on my small pocket!

I thought about buying used as well... However, I fear Algea and the use of copper. But I'm still keeping my eyes out.. if I do find something and am assured of its quality then I might just scoop it. As for now, I'm saving up as much as I can to get the maximum amount of LR from LFS that I can afford.

I called industrial plastics today and they have aquarium safe stuff available, so I'm gonna check them out next week!!

I liked that stand too.. infact its on hold for someone who contacted me for it just by looking at my journal.

I don't know about never being happy with LEDs... I've never had either so I can't say.. but for now I'm sticking to Radiums until I start and finish my LED build!

Thanks! I'll check it out. Seems like an awesome deal for 3 bucks a tube!

I've also found something at Industrial plastics that is Aquarium safe.. Let's see what that is all about!

FINALLY!!!
 

Alright folks so I finally got some time to post an update!

My build took a big halt by the end of October because I went down to Mexico just before I started my new job. Came back from vacation and started work right after and didn't step foot in my garage for about 3 weeks.

But then I finally got caught up with things and slowly started painting the stand. Finally its all done!! well atleast enough for me to move on with other things.

Here are some pics... I have a LOT of questions in my mind at the moment that I'll be posting after the pics.. I hoping to come up with some solutions this weekend so I can get going right after new years!!

Here is the stand in its final resting place!
http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...1/DSC_3608.jpg

Side view!
http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...1/DSC_3610.jpg

RO/DI Water mixing station
http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...1/DSC_3631.jpg
http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...1/DSC_3632.jpg

0 TDS!
http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...1/DSC_3635.jpg

Alright, so I have a concern with my RO/DI unit..

On the TDS meter, it says 000 for all readings (in and out). Is that possible? or is it possible that my unit may not be functioning properly because its been sitting in storage for more than a year now?

I'm also a little perplexed about my sump design.

I'm thinking of a 3 chamber sump. First for Drain and Skimmer, second for return and third for fuge.

However, I only have 36" to play with.

First section will be 16" next for return will be 8" and that leaves me with 12 inches for fuge. Is that ample size for fuge and return chamber?

Here is a pic of the "to be" sump!

http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...1/DSC_3637.jpg

Most of my equipment will be dipped in Vinegar water tonight and cleaned tomorrow! I'm hoping to have the tank up on the stand by tomorrow afternoon!

Still debating whether to put a foam insulation sheet under the tank or not..

The stand top is made out of MDF.. its pretty stable as it is.. What the community's opinion on that?

No pics :( well, can't see them anyway...

Oh my bad... I posted here and then went on to organize my photobucket albums. is there anyway for me to edit my posts?

I guess I'll just re-post it all for it to make sense!

SUMP DESIGN
 

Hey Guys, looking to get some feedback on my sump design.

Here is what I'm thinking of doing.

http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...mpDesign_1.jpg

I want to know if 10" height for the baffels good or should I decrease it to prevent potential overflowing.

Also, is it better to have a sand bed in the fuge or LR rubble?

I'll be using a phosphate reactor on my tank, will a fuge with chatoe be redundant?

i would leave the refuge the height like 10.5 and the the baffles have like 3 under over and under keep them around 8" y9ou want ot have somewhat a drain off too like you stated.

However its going to depend on how much water drains off after the pumps shuts down. you can always have a small hole drilled into the return line. Just above the water line so the siphon breaks the water there.

Are you referring to baffle overflows, or total volume flooding ?

Depending on what your gph over the baffle will be, you potentially could go almost right to the trim
A 12" wide baffle can handle around 800gph and have a film of less than 1/2" of water

My baffles are almost 18" wide
I only left myself 1/4" from my highest baffle to the underside of the plastic trim
When my el-cheapo socks plugged up, the baffle still handled the flow from both my Eheim 1262 return pump (8-900gph), Compact 2000 (225gph) and 2 MJ600s through reactors

If I misunderstood, and you are worried about overflowing of total system volume during power off, I'd go with a bigger return area as that's where all the extra water is going to end up
Your current design only allows for about 3.6g (if it's a 12" wide tank)

The drain in my tank has a little whole at the top with a plastic tube sticking out of it. So I don't think there will be much water draining down as soon as the power goes off. I guess I'll have to check the depth of the drain and the water level I'll keep to calculate the amount of water that might drain down.

Mike was referring to a hole in the return line to prevent backsiphoning of the DT
The siphon will break wherever you drill the hole, instead of it siphoning to the bottom of your return outlet
If you go this route, keep in mind that the drilled hole will be spraying water while your return pump is on, so plan where you want it pointing

Greg you're right! I was worried about the total system overflowing during power off because it happens in my area often for some odd reason.

What I don't know about is how much water will actually be in the return area constantly when the system is running... is there a way for me to figure that out before setting everything up?

I really like how you did your sump. Very well planned out! unfortunately I don't have a lot of realestate to play with here.

If I have to increase my return chamber size the only way thats possible is if I reduce the size of the refugium. I don't know what the best or at least minimum size of refugium I'd need on my system. Or is it best to go as big as you can?

Oh I see. My return line also has a hole on top of it.

And I had no idea about the hole spraying water while the pump is on... I'll have to take a look into it. I think I'll clean my tank today and take a few pics and show you guys what my tank's return line and drain pipe looks like!

If you are using your ATO then the level in the return section should remain pretty constant as this is the only chamber that fluctuates due to evap. (your ATO water will also go into the return chamber).The level will be what ever you set it at by filling the tank with water until it is all filled to your liking.

Assuming your sump tank is 12" and your baffles remain at 10" high you will have about 6 1/2 to 7 gallons of room for your display water to drain into the sump before it over flows.

To calculate how much water will flow from the DT to the sump when the return pump is off measure from the top of the water column down to where the siphon break would be to get your height measuremnet in inches. Now measure the length and width of the tank in inches. L x W x H to get volume in cubic inches and then divide this number by 231 to get gallons.

Besides the good advice given while I was writing this letter :wink:

You set the level in the return area yourself. Enough to keep the return pump from sucking air right before the ATO tops it off is enough to keep the system running. While this isn't an ideal situation, it will give you an idea of how much room you have for powerouts

If you were to run only chaeto, you could go anywhere from 8 to 12 inches cubed. You want to run a DSB and I have no experience with them, so someone else will have to help you here

Thanks, but I reconfigured it 4 times, so not so well planned out :smile:
I built, then tested, then re-built etc

I see you have a 16" tall tank. I suggest you use as much of that height as you can. You'll need to build a stand for your skimmer, but ...
You'll increase your return area by 2g or so, depending on the height of your baffles. This may be all the powerout room you need. Plus, this will increase your total system volume
Hopefully others with a sump similar to yours will chime in ...

What I did was decide what skimmer I'd want to buy in the future and made that chamber as narrow as possible. I also built it as high as possible
I didn't plan on a DSB, so I built a small hang-inside tank for chaeto (later I built it remote). This allowed me to have it be part of the return area which freed up lots of extra volume for powerouts and total return chamber size

This is why I hope others with a similar setup to yours will help out ...

Go as high as you can, but leave yourself enough room under your DT to get equipment in and out of the sump, and to remove your collection cup without hating yourself

FINALLY!!!!
 

Hi Everyone!! Its been a long time since my last update. I've been working on my build slowly and now its finally taking shape!

Here are the pics!

The tank made its way on top of the stand!! I used a thin layer of wood flooring underlay. I think it worked out very nicely!

http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...ps01adaf14.jpg

Meanwhile the doors wait to be painted!

http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0b044a56.jpg

Time for a vinegar bath!

http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...ps828a0a54.jpg

While the tank get a vinegar bath, I gathered all my plumbing supplies and tools to get down with the wrench and pvc cement!

http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...psb975218a.jpg

Sump complete with bulkhead and baffles and water tested!

http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...psa60cb75e.jpg

More plumbing... Time for the return pump to get hooked up!

http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8af86499.jpg

Time to test run the plumbing and check for any leaks!

http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...ps26411015.jpg

SUCCESS! No leaks!

http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...psfd4c4560.jpg