Attaching Heatsinks to Hoods
 

Can I use something like JB weld to attach an aluminum heatsink to a plastic hood?

I don't want to drill holes in the hood.

Can you get us some pics of the sink, and where you'd like to attach it ?

I'd be a little concerned about it holding longterm as heat can separate adhesives

I'm working on photos . . . Photobucket isn't cooperating.

Not totally done yet . . .

http://i1035.photobucket.com/albums/...2a81d0d127.jpg

The CF lighting and the reflector are coming out. The LEDs will be mounted under the acrylic slash guard.

Could I drill holes in the splash guard and attach the heatsink to that with screws? I'd need some sort of tubing to go between the splash guard and the heat sink for the screws to run though: to keep the heatsink at a set distance from the slash guard.

Hmmm. Guess I should have drilled holes in the heat sink before I glued any of the LEDs down.

http://i1035.photobucket.com/albums/...e8c91b6290.jpg

Crappy Tire has a "high heat" JB Weld.

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brows....jsp?locale=en

There's an automotive "Goop" too.

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brows....jsp?locale=en

How hot can I expect the heatsink to get?

I mounted my heatsink by building a bracket with one end screwed into an existing plastic stanchon and the other end over the heatsink. Two of these hold the HS in place without drilling.

No pics in your build read. I understand what you're explaining, though.

I'm actually leaning towards the automotive goop. I think it should be able to withstand the heat, and it is removable (though it is a chore to remove).'it is supposed to withstand temperatures of 150F.

I've never built something like this, so Snaz is your better go-to for help

If it were me, I'd go with the removable brackets
Safer, and easy to remove for maintenance/repairs

I see 4 corners of your acrylic splash guard look like they have screws - or are they just some kind of pressed thingys ?
Could you remove the guard, drill the sink and mount it to those holes ?

If you were a bit closer I'd come look :smile:

High heat job weld would work. I would suggest though if u can get four holes drilled into your heat sink to mount in to ur hood. That would do best.
I had a similar problem with my 29 biocube.
A 2 dollar drill bit with screws. its a lot easier to change then a permanent thing.
Just my two cents.
As I took my led out and fitted it to a different tank.

@Greg The sink is too small for that. But, I might be able to mount brackets on the heatsink to screw into those holes. Bar stock would work. Attach the bar stock to the corners of the heat sink, drill holes in the bar stock, and put the splash guard screws through the splash guard and the holes in the bar stock.

I think you coming over to look would make us an "unofficial team" in the nano contest. No teams! :lol:

How did you pretty up the top of the hood where you drilled the holes? I just don't want it to look ugly.

Didn't realise you were entering this one :wink:
Good thing I don't live down the street ....

I think you're on the right track with some non-permanent mounting
Keep brainstorming .. you'll come up with something

I did a nano a while back :)

Once you get all the guts out of the unit, there will be remaining mounting holes in the plastic. From there just drill holes in the heatsync that lineup, screw it down and your done :mrgreen:

Four washers and bolts/nuts showing on the top sides doesn't stand out. I was super surprised.

Since you are using the existing splash guard for the leds, perhaps you can utilize it to mount to rather than the external cover.

Id expect a decent amount of heat on that sink. Im running 16 boards at 65% on the same size sink and with a 25cfm fan I sit at 87f.

I did Claymax's led retro fit and all we did was to first gut the hood of all the PC crap set in the heatsink and put the splash gaurd back on. Use the original hole for power & that was that.

I know what I'm going to do. :)

I'm going to use Automotive JB Weld, bar stock aluminum, and screws.

http://i1035.photobucket.com/albums/...9dd05f4988.jpg

If you look above and below the heatsink in the photo, you'll see holes for a total of six screws: two top left, one top right, two bottom left, and one bottom right.

I'm going to attach four pieces of bar stock aluminum to the heat sink using JB Weld. I'm going to drill holes in the bar stock that align with the screw holes. Then I'm going to use screws to mount it to the holes.

I really don't want to drill the heatsink, as that will affect the placement of additional LEDs in the future (and I'm not so good with a drill).

I'm waiting for more stuff from Martin, so the LEDs aren't done yet. I wonder how many orders it takes to get everything one requires? I keep finding more things that I need/forgot. I'm sure three will be the charm. :)

Will any hardware store carry the bar stock? What is it normally used for (so I know what department to find it in)?

Edit: in tearing the hood apart I sure learned one thing . . . JBJ's quality control and manufacturing standards are abysmal!

I would not trust JB weld. Drill the heatsink. Not even sure I'd trust the plastic screw inserts long term. Don't know how much your heatsink with LEDs weighs, but the extra security of a few good quality scews through the hood & secured with nuts would be my choice. Last thing you need is to come home to your LEDs with heatsink submerged in the display. Paint the protruding hardware black & it will hardly be noticed.

Thanks, Mike.

I checked with a buddy who is a journeyman auto body technician. He's confident that the JB Weld should hold no problem.

The heatsink isn't very heavy. So, I'm going to try out my plan as it is. In the event of a failure, I'll put screws through the lid. If I need to do that, I'm going to make another modification to the lid as well (cut a hole in it for a 120mm cooling fan). And, in the event of a failure, I'll be sure to document it online: so no one else attempts it. :lol:

Please disregard

jmtcw