Not entirely a newby but...
 

I have recently been learning a lot about reef tanks. I have had a 75 gal FO tank for five years now, and still have some of the original fish, so I guess I've been doing something right. I am now building a new system with the intention of eventually having it become a true reef tank. To start off it will be FOWLR.

The whole thing is a custom built setup. The tank is 125 gal custom made to fit the space. I had to have the back angled off at a 45 on one end to fit to the wall. This has made it a bit challenging, since it limits the working space below as well. The major dimensions of the tank ar 48" l x 24" w x 32" d. I chose to go with the deep tank to gain the water volume back that I lost due to the angled back, but after reading more on this, I'm not sure it was the best decision. The sump and refugium will hold about 25 gallons while operating, the total volume is about 35.

I have a ton of equipment and supplies on order from J&L, and once I have all that I should be able to get started filling it. I don't anticipate having it stocked for a few more months yet. I paln to move my fish out of my current tank into the new one, but there are a couple of them I'd like to part with. I hope I can keep learning from all the folks here as I continue to work on this. The local resources I've discovered here have been very helpful. I know I will be back often with lots of questions.


http://www.canreef.com/photopost/dat...1-med.jpg?3184
http://www.canreef.com/photopost/dat...ium-3.jpg?1671

looks like your off to a rockin start. the size of the tank is deciveing in that pic I would have never guesed it was that big


Steve

Nice! Welcome to Canreef too :biggrin:

I currently have a 230g built into my basement wall and it's 30" deep. A bit of a pain sometimes but I now would never go with a shorter display tank. I like the height.

I'm glad to hear your positive feedback on the deep tank. I've read that one concern is with adequate gas exchange, but I figure I can overcome that with good circculation. The other issue is adequate lighting. I hope I'm on track with what I have ordered. I'm getting two 250w 10000k MH with an Icecap ballast, plus two 96w PCs, one 10000k and one actinic. I also want to hook up some moonlights as well. Of course the depth is a pain for working in as well, I've found that out just setting things up. That plus the fact that the stand is tall too (36") means its step ladder territory for working in there.

I have a 48x24x30 150 gal and am fairly pleased with it.

He has a 45 degree angle on one end of it Quinn ... I think that is where he gets the lower capacity calculation from

Cheers

It is only 125 gallons because of the 45 angle on the back. The back is 32 inches to the 45 and the right end is only 8 inches. Makes the tank look much bigger than it is.

Ah! Now I understand. Very interesting.

Nice setup - check out the new T5 MH combo lights at Sunlight Supply-
http://www.sunlightsupply.com/aquarium/news.shtml
No distributors in Canada, but you can easily get them from ReefGeek.com - I have 6xT5 in my 90, and it is BRIGHT. Mine is only 24" deep, and with your extra depth, this combo might be great.
Where did you get it built?

I had the tank built locally by a fellow who does them out of his home garage. He only builds a few a year as a side to his regular job in a glass shop. He's good, but not fast. He was reccomended to me by a friend.

The back panels are all mitred edges for the 45 so I don't have a huge silicone joint to worry about failing. I just gave him the drawings of what I needed and he put it together.

I all ready have lights on order for it, but thanks for the tip anyway.

Sounds good - mitred joints look WAY better, and are of course more structurally sound - I have a flat back hex with the front angle joints mitred, Starphire glass - I love it - I didn't realize how much the angled fronts affect the overall look of the tank. Very glad I did it.

Have fun!

What are you going to use for a Calc. Reactor?

I was not too concerned apperance wise with the joints since they are on the back of the tank, but strength was a big concern. I figure it is worth the extra cost to make the joint stronger.

As for a Calc. reactor, I have not even considered one at this point. Is this a vital peice of equipment, or just a convienience? I don't plan to add any corals for a while. I want to get the tank operating and to a stable water condition before I do that. Probably in a year or so, so I have a good history on the operating conditions. If you think I do need one, what do you reccomend? What about DIY options, any good plans available?

I hope that with the tank in my basement, I will be able to control the temperature better. My current 75 gallon gets way too hot in the summer. It is on the main floor in my south facing living room. I'm planning on putting fans into both the upper and lower cabinets to vent out the heat and humidity. I'm also thinking that I might duct the air flow from the light canopy out of the top cabinet. Has anyone else tried this? How much heat do the MH bulbs create, or is most of the heat from the ballasts? I would like to mount the ballasts outside the cabinet if I can find a spot for them.

Well, there are lots of good CaReactors around - I just got one from MyReefCreations.com - relatively less expensive than some.

I had only had coral in my tank for about a month before I put it in, and my calcium had already dropped way down - 140 - mostly LPS, 2 SPS - so they do consume the calcium avidly.

There are lots of DIY designs around too - not sure about this board, but there are lots on ReefCentral. If you are handy with acrylic, it doesn't look too hard to make. Get a pH controller with it, though.

John

Also, about MH and heat - it is not the ballasts at all - it is the bulbs. They run an internal temperature of something like 1100 degrees compared to 170 for fluorescents (numbers may be a bit off, but you get the idea).

MH lights need good venting and fans or open tops. A fan is also a good idea over a closed canpopy anyway for O2 exchange. T5 lights are a bit hot but nothing like MH - and they consume a LOT less electricity. Most MH hoods have a built in fan.