Help programming RKE myReef float switch
 

So I'm feeling all kinda short bus right now

I've tried to set up a switch to kill my return pump if the level rises too high in the overflow box.
Problem is, whenever I try to program it in myReef, I don't get an option for Trip, only Trigger
I can't find where to set Trip On/Off Open/Closed

Hope someone can help
Thanks

Set your channel as switch.

I tried using the Head Unit to set the channel ...
Out ... PC4 ... Pump ... Mode auto ... Function switch
Off when Open
On when Closed

Then it went into this crazy On/Off loop

And the switch isn't in the water right now :sad:

I'd really like to use myReef to do this as I have other units to set up on this one switch, and I have even more yet to program on a second switch.
Biggest thing right now is to just get the return pump set up on the overflow as I have the RO water up to temp and would like to leave it running overnight.

As I said above, when I did that it went berzerk

OK, I just set up the channel as a switch, instead of as a pump and it works - Off when / On when

Thanks reefme

Only thing bothering me is, why do I have to call my pump a switch ?
Am I missing something, or is DA out to lunch ? :mrgreen:

you are welcome. May I ask why you need a switch there? Do you know switch do fail?

I guess I understand it ...

The channel is the item
The function is what controls it IE: switch
The hardware labels it

Of course they fail, but it's just a backup.
I'm running a Herbie and have 2" above the Emerg before it triggers the switch.
Just trying to add a little redundancy :wink:
This particular switch will never be wet unless the tank is near flooding so I don't see it ever getting munged up. Here's where it's installed. It will stay clean

http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/x...d/DSC00910.jpg

And FYI you all, reefme sent me a bunch of PMs to help too ...
Mighty nice of him :biggrin:

So, to clarify for the next poor sap reading this ....
When programming in myReef, you need to change the FUNCTION of the unit plugged into the PC4.
In my case, it is a pump and I had originally set it to Pump
I changed it to Switch, and then I was able to set the On when / Off when
Hope this helps someone else :smile:

This is definately going to take more work tomorrow

I obviously can't set my heaters as a switch
I'll need to set up an alarm for them

What is the heater got to do with switch? Isn't the Temp probe take care of that?

If I change, say, channel 4 on PC4 #2, from Heater to Switch, I lose the temp control ....
What am I missing ?

I want the first switch we just programmed to turn off not only that pump, but also the heaters and the skimmer all at once.
Then I want to set a re-start delay for the skimmer of, say, 30 seconds

BTW, I read every post on the DA site, and this is still not making total sense

Just to be safe, don't mess around with it at night. Otherwise you will wake up with a nightmare. Double check everything before going to bed.

That is good advice :mrgreen:

Oh ya, I'm not going to make any major changes I can't watch for awhile.
I'm feeling comfortable enough to sleep tonight with the overflow killing the return pump.
I do, however, want to get the rest of it set up so I don't overheat the sump as the Temp probe is in the overflow.

I suppose I could simplify things by having the Temp probe in the sump, but I thought I'd like to get the temp reading closer to the tank than that.
Guess I'll have to think that over now .......

This would take care of any issues with the control for the heaters, wouldn't it ? :doh:

I'd still rather keep the Temp probe in the overflow box .............

Set your heater 1/2 or 1 degree above your temp probe.

This I have done. The heaters are 1-2 degrees +/- hotter, but I still want to either ...

A - have the temp probe in the overflow box and the switch turn off the heaters in the sump

B - put the probe in the sump's heater chamber

If I put the probe in the heater chamber, I need to re-configure some stuff and hope the Temp probe wire is long enough.
I used the suction cup for something else :smile:
I have a spare suction cup for the probe 'cause I bought spare probes ( redundancy ) so I can do that if that's the best way to go.
So, should I bail on all this fancy programming and just put the danged probe in the sump's heater chamber ?

I put my probe in a filter sock, so it gets the water temperature from your DT.

Well, unless there are some wonderful ideas about programming a switch to turn off my heaters, I guess I'm going to put my $30 probe holder in the sump's heater chamber
At least it can also hold the Ranco probe
What a waste of money

Yup, looks like that's what I'll have to do
I was hoping to probe the water before all the plumbing, but I guess it doesn't make that much difference, does it ?

You can go to this forum to get help or email them directly, you get an answer in less than 24 hrs.

http://www.forum.digitalaquatics.com...?f=26&start=25

Thanks Casey
If I have to, I will contact DA
I've read through all their forum info, but some of it is still useless.
This case is a prime example where reefme showed me something not clarified on the DA site

That was why I just email them and get an answer promptly and accurately what I want because I don't have patience like you :wink:

I now have the Temp probe in the sump's heater chamber
This is where I will put the pH probe and the Ranco probe as well

I can sleep with this setup, but I will definately be doing some research or DA e-mails to sort this, and other issues, out

I set up my heater as a controller, sensor port is SL1-temp, direction is below, setpoint is 78, hysterisis is .01.
You should use 2 switches to control your pump, 1 that turns it on and 1 that turns it off and set the height @ 1/4" apart, that will prevent the toggle effect.

Thanks for the input Cal

My heaters are setup as yours and I'd like to keep them that way. I'll have to figure out an alarm, but that's later. It's OK for now with the probe in the heater chamber

As for the switch issue, when it was cycling, the switch was dry and not moving. It was a programming error
I will also fix this issue with an alarm

I'll most likely be back with more issues or contact DA

I'm off to put salt in my tank :mrgreen:

Finally
 

I finally figured this out
I have all of my Switches set to Open ( as in no contact ) when they rise, so keep this in mind when setting up yours

Only 1 Alarm can be assigned per Channel, so I set up Alarms in myReef as follows;

Alarm 1 is the Overflow high float
-Device 1 is SWA - Trigger 0.5 - Above - Logic OR ( doesn't matter with only one device )

Alarm 2 is the Sump low float
-Device 1 is SWB - Trigger 0.5 - Above - Logic OR ( doesn't matter with only one device )

Alarm 3 is Both
-Device 1 is SWA - Trigger 0.5 - Above - Logic OR ( OR means it will trip on either device )
-Device 2 is SWB - Trigger 0.5 - Above - Logic OR ( AND means it needs both devices to trip )

Now I have the programming I needed, and my Return pump is still a Pump, not a Switch

For those of you using myReef to do this;
A Trigger value of 0.5 and set to Above will trip when Open ( no contact )
A Trigger value of 0.5 and set to Below will trip when Closed ( contact )

If you're using your Head Unit to do this, it will give you the option to select the word trip and so on.

There is a known issue on the RKL (I know you have the elite version) where the temperature probe does not have enough power if you daisy chain it too far from the controller.

If you program the temperature probe to the exact temperature you want, then set an alarm on it to go off if the temperature strays two degrees higher. Then set your physical heaters 1 degree higher than what you actually want and program them as heaters on the controller. It should all work out. I also added a fan to turn on should the temperature go over by 2.5 degrees.

Cugio
I'm not sure which one of us is confused :noidea:
Did you think I was having probe issues ?
I was programming floats to turn off equipment
The temp probe only came into play as I want it in the overflow box, not in the heater chamber

I have it all set now
If the return pump shuts off, so do the heaters, nullifying my need to have the probe next to them

Whoops sorry, must have misread.

No worries
Thanks for your input anyway
Besides, it may help someone else :wink: