tank remodeling,sump question? (last page)
 

Well the time has come for me to do upgrade and do some remodeling to my fish room:biggrin:
Here are some photos of what I have running now,I am going to try and finish all upgrades by next weekend.
at the moment I have a 180glns in-wall and approx 230glns consisting of a frag tank and a couple sumps witch all tanks are tied together.
For next week hoping will have the original180 and adding 240,100,60 and a 40glns running all together.
Here are some photos of the wall prior to...:biggrin:
Left side
http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/w...y/IMG_1962.jpg

Right side of the wall

http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/w...y/IMG_1963.jpg

Left side again with the door open to the fish room

http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/w...y/IMG_1964.jpg

Frag tank into fish room

http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/w...y/IMG_1965.jpg

The 100 glns sump

http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/w...y/IMG_1966.jpg

The 60 glns frag tank

http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/w...y/IMG_1967.jpg

More photos to be added for every step I take:biggrin::biggrin:
This upgrade is to facilitate bringing in more coral shipments and it would make my wall look more full.

Wow Eli are u going to be doing anything about the added water that looks to be about 620 gallons are u afraid of the evap and moisture in the house, especially during the winter?

The tanks will be insulated behind the fish room that will have its own draw of air and exhaust from outside in the hopes that will fix any moisture and heat buildup.

A question to those used Spa-flex.should the 1.5" spa flex it tight like a PVC on any fitting or should it be loose and use some kind of transition fittings.Because seems like mine fit loosely in the fitting and I bought this product G941HT… SPA FLEX from www.greenlinehose.com/
and the specs says 1.5" spa-flex with ID 1.65 AND od 1.90

I searched on G941HT on that site and came up with this: http://www.greenlinehose.com/_pdf/hose/2.Water.pdf#search="G941HT"

... which I have to say looks like some kind of rubber? That's not spa flex. Spa flex is, literally, flexible PVC pipe. You use PVC cement same as like for rigid PVC (you can use regular PVC cement but the flex PVC cement is clear because it has a little bit of give to it) and yeah the fittings are ordinarily a pretty tight fit (same as rigid PVC would be - it's the same fittings).

this is the information on the product I bought as it is on the bottom of the spec sheet
And these are the specs I asked for
And by measuring the ID and OD of what I bought I think they gave me the wrong size as it measures to the same specs as the 11/4" spaflex
Back to the store tomorrow to replace the size

Elias, that G941HT is the correct stuff. It is normal for it to seem sloppy after it cures. This is why it works so well.
Make sure you hold it in place for a few minutes while it starts to cure as it can slip apart much easier than rigid pvc.
Not sure what cement you plan on using, but anyone I talked to recommended Weld-On 795 and it worked well for me.

I bought mine from Western Pump. I just asked for 3/4" and 1" spa flex. It was very tight when I tried to put it in the the fittings dry. Once the glue is on, it goes in a little easier. I was told not to use primer so I didn't and no leaks so far.

The stuff in the catalog looks like standard spa flex to me but I don't recall it being sloppy within fittings, it's actually very hard to dry fit, needs glue to slide in as others have said.

Sounds like you're correct in your assumption, if it measures the same as 1-1/4" spa flex then that's probably what it is.

+1 .. there is a primer you can use if you want, also can be had from Western Pump.

When I google G941HT I see it looks like the same spaflex I'd get from Western Pump so I don't know what the heck that rubber hose page from greenline was all about. I'm going to blame DST. DST screws up everything. Stupid DST. Ask me a question tomorrow and hopefully I'll answer it better. That's my story and I'm sticking with it. DST.

Did someone just tell you this? Or is it in literature? The use of the primer with the solvent weld is some cases a must. But depends on application and which brand name. The only one I have seen even recommends a primer, but not a must, but only in a drainage application, not a pressure application. Just my 2 cents.

I read the tip in Brad's tank Journal and so I googled it and the general consensus was to not use primer for spaflex. So that is what I did.

I am a plumber... and I can tell you that primer is only meant to clean the pipe before applying the cement... It is not needed under such low pressure systems like our aquariums. I have used the spa flex well for my 220 gal tank upgrade and never used primer and have no issue's... The one thing about the spa flex to make you aware of... for the first month or so the flex line is almost slimy, but does not affect the water quality... if you have any questions feel free to pm me

Thanks guys and gals for your input on the spa-flex it turned out to be 11/4" and had to replace it with the right 11/2" witch fit tight now,Process is going a little slower than I expected and during all the cutting and moving a couple of rain barrels I sprung a leak that I had to clean about 75glns out the basement :twised:. And now I have a couple commercial fans running with all windows and doors open,a little chili:biggrin:.I must say,crazy as it might sound,have to enjoy this hobby to much to be able to go through all this:biggrin:
here are few photos of what is done so far.

50 feet roll of 1.1/5" spa-flexhttp://i726.photobucket.com/albums/w...y/IMG_1972.jpg
Left side untouched

http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/w...y/IMG_1968.jpg

Cut out of the right side

http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/w...y/IMG_1969.jpg
http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/w...y/IMG_1970.jpg

Inside the aquarium room showing one shallow frag tank and on its right will have another 60glns frag tank to.
http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/w...y/IMG_1971.jpg

Full wall photo with the cut-out covering the 180glns
http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/w...y/IMG_1973.jpg

upgrade been coming slowly,as of now I have all tanks up and running except for the 240glns witch I will start filling it tomorrow then aquascape then lighting then finishing the stand...:biggrin:
A little more info. here is a photo of the heart and main arteries going from the pump distributed to all the tanks
http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/w...y/IMG_1986.jpg

Here it is again attached to the pump

http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/w...y/IMG_1985.jpg

And now into the sump ready for power :biggrin:

http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/w...y/IMG_1984.jpg

I will have few more photos tomorrow with it all cleaned up.
I just finished aquascaping the 180glns (what a big pain to remove all remaining corals and 350lbs of rocks to replace most of it back (wow i sure don't recommend re-aquascaping any setup with so much rocks) I must say that I lost none of the fish or all my corals but I sure do need to bring in more corals for filling the tank again...

PVC cementing is a two part process, yes the primer cleans the fitting and pipe, but it is cleaning away oils, dirt, ect and the factory coating on PVC pipe and fittings. Also it acts as a bonding agent by making the surfaces softer allowing the glue to react and soak in to the PVC farther creating a stronger bond.

As for low PSI systems not needing it, PVC is only meant for low PSI systems, the 145 PSI cold is a max pressure, 99.9% of all PVC systems operate at under 70 PSI and probably the majority of that under 30 PSI which is where tanks can operate.

as for getting away with not using primer, .. ya you could, but you would have more leaks with out primer than you would with it. this is a design process shortcuts can work but they are never the right way to do anything.

for people who don't want the purple ugly primer look, (the main reason people want to not use primer) get clear primer and clear glue.

Steve

well now that I am placing the stand for the 240glns there is a gap if aprox. 1/4" on the bottom of one side of the stand.
What should I place under there to level the stand? Someone said use pennies or a piece of metal? would that be fine of would I run into problems later on?
any input would be much appreciated as I am planning to start filling the tank tonight.

Metal shims would be my choice or oak shims.

Thanks Greg I will go and find some scrap metal now:biggrin:

Sorry Elias, if I'm hijacking your thread. But I do not agree with this statement (this is my own personal and profesional opinion). A primer is needed for several reasons, it dissolves the wax layer that is formed in the extrusion process, it also softens the piping allowing for better bonding and penetration of the solvent weld. Read any manufactures specifications and they will tell you that in most pressure applications, a primer must be used. They even recommend it with there one step for DWV systems.

shims
 

use composite shims-about $4 at rona or home depot.they won't compress or rot or rust

I don't have any metal scraps :twised: so off to home depot or rona tomorrow to find either some metal or check out the composite shims or any other product that could handle the 2400lbs weight

the stand is ready for placing the tank and start filling (tomorrow's job) in the mean time the 180,the 60 and the 40glns are running with only 180glns has few corals.Here are some quick snaps,oh and I haven't painted the back of the 180 yet :biggrin:

http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/w...y/IMG_1987.jpg
http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/w...y/IMG_1998.jpg
http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/w...y/IMG_1992.jpg
http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/w...y/IMG_1990.jpg
http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/w...y/IMG_1988.jpg

During the wait and all the construction I think I am having a problem of what to stock the tanks and how.like some of the photos shows I will have the 240 slightly over laps the 180 on the over flow side.
Well here are a few ideas if the stock.
So I am thinking a high rock slide for both tanks going down towards white sand.
I think a floor full of zoas and polyps of all different colors and shapes.
Then on the rocks a couple Blue orange stags and few acans...
Now I am lost for stocking the 240 glns ideas ideas ideas....

I think ricordea and zoas of all colors will soon be on the way for stocking my tanks and few pieces for those of you interested parties....

While waiting for another couple days till the 240glns is filled,I am trying to maximize the space into the sump,so here is a question.
Sump size is 100 glns that on the top has glass bracing in the middle that measures 19" by 20" that pretty much covers 1/3 of the 100 glns,how possible is it to remove that and would I run into problems later on?

Did you put any baffles in to the sump Eli?

My guess is it would be fine. As Greg hints at too, if you have any baffles in there they will help reinforce the structural integrity same as bracing does.

No baffles and the tank will be filled 3/4 of the way at best but filled with rocks DIY skimmer and would like to put a crate filled with filter floss where all the drains meet.I should mention that there are one bracing (aprox 6") on each end of the tank.

To be on the side of caution you could remove all the bracing and put a proper euro bracing on all 4 side to open the top right up.

I think its already too late for that as the tank is already in service as a sump.If I remove all bracing now and the tank expands there will be no means to do this.Maybe the best step is removing the center bracing and hoping:biggrin: the end bracing will do the job.

That makes me nervous.............I hope that something tragic doesn't happen if & when you do take the center brace out.

I hope you are right.
Oh did I mention this is one of your tanks :biggrin: ...as I need to blame someone

:nono: wasn't mine, it was a buddies tank I just handled the transport :razz:

Just kidding:biggrin:
Well I am going to remove it now and will let you know the results as I will measure if there will be any expansion, hopefully it will take 10 minutes...
worse comes to worse and an exploded tank will have a flood of aprox 100 glns in my basement and will be calling you Greg for finding or bringing a replacement tank.

Well my fingers are crossed for you but if I do have to find you a new tank it might cost you a clam :twised:

A clam no problem as I still have 3 in my main tank:biggrin:
Having a little problem,How the hek do I remove it as its glued so dam tight that I cannot run a blade between the glass.

I use the smallest guitar string to cut sealed silicone.

Ahh I see,I will go and bug my kid for his guitar string:biggrin:

Use 2 wood dowels to hold the string or it will slice you up.