Grizz's 300 gal 8'er / LED Heat sink build / Opinions on LED lay out needed
 

So here is a concept design of the 300 gal 8'er that I am planning to start in Aug. Tank will be 96"L x 24"W x 30"D, 3/4" all around, euro-braced & starphire front. I am tossed between putting a wave maker on the left end or getting a couple MP 40's. No closed loop but I will be using my OM 4 Way on my 8 return lines. Also going to run my skimmer, 2 - MR1 reactors off my return pump, add in a ATO & WC system from my water room downstairs. Definitely going with LED for lighting and hope to have a 4 pump doser to go with my Profilux 2EX controller.

This is just the sub frame built out of 1 1/2" Hss for the stand & 1" for the rest of the cabinet which will be skinned with Burch & Oak.

So what do you think? Did I forget something or do you have any ideas for me.

Could not figure out how to upload this pic to photobucket from Google Sketchup so I just took a pic with my phone.


http://i765.photobucket.com/albums/x...r/6905fd96.jpg

That tank stand looks like it's made of wood.:lol: It looks like it'll be a great tank! I'd love to have my returns on lower levels of the tank yoo but I'm too chicken that a bulkhead would go and empty my tank on the floor. The rug could be replaced but parts of my body that my wife would remove could not.:cry:

First time using Google Sketchup, this took me several hours to put together. I don't build any stands or tank surrounds out of wood simply because wood rotts. If an exterior panel gets damaged it is easy to replace. The lower bulkheads will be at least 6" up from the bottom.

I should add, because it is hard to tell from the pic that there will be a coast to coast overflow along the top 6" x 6" draining down at the center through 2 - 1 1/2" Durso's.

I still haven't made up my mind if I want 2 holes in my external overflow to drain or 3 holes to do a beananimal set up.

:pop2:

Personally I find the Durso the best & my reasoning is simply because 1. it is the easiest to set with a simple air valve on the top of the 2. No gate or ball valves to fight with. 3. Less plumbing parts & pieces to leak.

I have done a Herbie, Gurgle Buster and Durso's. The 3 tanks I have running now all have Durso's, built the plumbing, filled the tanks, kicked in the return pump, spent less then 5 min adjusting the air valve & have never touch them since.

If you keep eating all that popcorn Kien your going to get fat & get high BP, hope it's low sodium & fat feel :twised:

Cool. A coast to coast overflow will kill any wave you try to make so I wouldn't bother with the wavebox. With the OM and the right pump you could make a really kick ass PVC frame/manifold that supports your liverock structure and provides flow through the tank.

Can i operate the bobcat when we move this into your house this time Greg? or do I have to be you spotter again lol

LOL!



Should look awesome Grizz - your build quality has been nothing but spectacular in the past. Though if i could make a recommendation - try getting those laminate panels in black, red or white. Very modern ELOS look. You know that high gloss IKEA type finish? I dunno how it would fit with your decor but it would be sweet none the less.

also - instead of the coast to coast why not go with a penninsula style overflow on BOTH Sides and just cut a wier into the side pieces of glass. That way the over flows are out of view COMPLETELY and easily accessible. There would be enough surface skimming. You could do a return on one side and over flow on the other as another option.

so what is this...tank 46? or 47? ;)

Nope because I don't have it any more.

The ikea panels will definitely NOT work with our room decor. I will be building all the door and side panels from scratch. If I do a peninsula style then I will not be able to look down the length of the tank from my lazy boy. I like to have the 3 sides to view what is going on in there.

And no this will still only make 3 running, this one is replacing the 165 gal because the tangs are getting big and the front glass is getting all scratched up. Has not got worse since I switched to using a razor blade to clean the glass instead of one of those mag float cleaners.


I was kinda thinking that but was not sure about the wave box, might just have to go with a couple MP 40's or just one 60.

I am using a pump that will push 6500 gph but I don't know if I want to see any more PVC in my tank again. The closed loop intake in the 165 is a pain in the a$$ and look crappy to.

Looks like an exciting project. Looking forward to seeing it come together.

Well what are you going to use this time then?

I have a few ideas like a wheel kit attached to the stand to roll it right into the house with no lifting required.

....This is gonna be an interesting tank move Greg lol, and as usual you can count me in once your ready.

Looking good man. I like the coast-to-coast but I'd seriously do my best to eliminate that center overlfow eating up your real-estate. why not just drill drains on the back of the tank and 90 up to create standpipes?

I was trying to figure out if something like that would work. Maybe I could drill 2 holes at each end, put in a 1 1/2" bulkhead then 90 down, tee them together with a 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 3" tee, run a short 3" PVC to my sump with a gate valve to control the flow.

actually popcorn is a very healthy light snack :-D

looks great but still don't know why can't you use the whole width so instead 8 feet you go for 12 feet

The wife want me to have some storage space for all my fish related crap & if I go 12' I don't have the room for the towers I want to build. There are a couple lights & a thermostat on the wall that I don't want to have to relocate if I can help it, there is also a closet on the left end of the tank where the door swings out 2' where we keep all our movies & holiday decor which I really can't block or the wife would put an end to the whole new tank.

clearly you arent getting the good stuff then.

So I need some input on a return pump. I want to use only one pump for this tank to run every thing with one check valve & flow control valves for skimmer, media reactors & chiller.

What does everyone think of this pump.

http://www.pondsplantsandmore.com/Ca...p/calt7500.htm

Do you have a design pic in mind of how it will plumb out with everything?
I have a monster pool/spa pump Im running on my 300 now that could easily take on several other items to tone down the flow rate....and it dosent heat up and is fairly quiet at 50-60GPM lol

No pic of what I have in mind but it will go something like this........

Return pump - check valve - OM 4-way - each port off 4-way split into 2 for a total of 8 returns ( only 4 running full at a time ) in threw back of the tank as pictured in the concept design.

Coast to coast OF - 1 1/2" drain at each end of tank - teed together to a 2" - 2" to 1" tee that will feed my 3 media reactor's - second 2" to 1" tee to feed skimmer - third 2" to 1" tee to feed chiller - end of 2" into filter sock in sump.

Im going through your other thread trying to picture how it would all go together...
Best I can say is rate the wattage with the flow rate and spend a bit extra on the pump with a better ratio :)

I do have a brand new Reeflo Hammerhead pump but I don't know if it will provide enough flow for what I want to accomplish.

:shocked:

You think it will be enough there Brett? I have it running on my 165 as of tonight ( long messy story as to why ) but it doesn't really seem like it is that powerful of flow.

What's that tank plumbed in tho? all 1" and don't you have loclines? Those pumps are flow pumps not really the best choice for pressure situations...

Ya it's 1" out of the pump, then split into 1" but then goes down to 3/4" to 4 loc-lines.

So what I want to do above do you think it would work? I really want to be able to have some SPS in it.

I'm not sure man. I'm a big fan of running closed loops on dedicated pumps. Not that I *have* before but I'd run lower flow through my return (and manifold off it) but with a seperate pump. Hammerhead to do the 4-way on it's own...

I have a closed loop now in the 165 & don't like it as it has caused me more grief then it's worth.

running it off your return means you need to deal with whatever flow you want out of the 4-way as a bare minimum through the sump too.

Well I have the glass panels for the tank now & I must say 96" x 30" x 3/4" glass looks heavier then it is.

you sir must be a beast :)
Im 290lbs and the go to guy at work when anyone needs something straightned with a sledge..... and that sucker was my last glass tank LOL Cant wait to see the pics.... Dont do internal overflows.... the one thing I overlooked getting mine built

Are you putting the tank together yourself?

Oh hell no, a whole 300 gal 8'er is EXTREMELY HEAVY! But one pane of glass really is not as heavy as I thought it would be. I am doing a coast to coast 6" x 6" overflow with my drains going out the back of the tank.


You bet, this is going to be a complete DIY build. The only parts I am missing is a doser & LED's ATM.

You looking at a Profilux doser?

Yep, I have a Profilux 2Ex controller so I am going with the Profilux doser. I had one lined up at a great price but have not been able to get a hold of the fellow. Might have to buy one new.

So I have finally made up my mind as to what I am going to do for LED's. With the help of Martin ( Modular LED ) we have come up with this:

4 - 12" x 12" LED pods all with 68 LED's each

20 - Cool White XP-E / 45 degree optics
16 - Royal Blue XP-E / 60 degree optics
16 - Blue XP-E / 60 degree optics
4 - Red XP-E / 60 degree optics?
4 - Green XP-E 60 degree optics?
8 - Natural White XP-G (high noon kit) / 45 degree optics

All the CW, RB & B will be run off 1 - 200w driver each, the red's and green's will be run off a 38w driver each & the NW will be run with 1 - 75w driver.

Also adding 2 EVG-AP-2F Dimmable Ballast Driver card's to enable all the LED's to be controlled by my Profilux 2EX controller.

Going to build my own heatsinks out of some 1/4" plate aluminum & 1/8" x 1" aluminum flatbar.