DYI Standpipe
 

so i have an internal overflow on my tank with a 1.5" drain hole on the bottom of the tank, then goes into a ball valve to control flow into the sump. problem is its louder than all hell, so i looked into ways to silence it and seems like a stand pipe is the way to go.

my question is since its only a 35gal tank with a 1.5" drain hole should i keep the stand pipe at 1.5" or should i go bigger, or smaller?

keep in mind the overflow chamber is about 18" high and 3.5"x3.75" wide...

What kind of standpipe are you using, you shouldn't be using a ball valve unless you have more than one drain. With one drain and the proper standpipe it should be quiet and if you do have a ball valve it should stay wide open and you should only close it for maintenance.

dont have a stand pipe actually I thought making one could make this noise a lot less, its just an internal overflow with a hole in the bottom of the tank, which goes into the ball valve then down a 45 degree section into the sump.

Ah IC. A durso is the easiest type to make and typically pretty quiet.

http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:A...l1vyHnIclvcZ8w
http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:A...Kpyvz00zuRNPCw

Pretty simple to make but the key is to reduce the pipe size after the standpipe. So If you have a 1.5" Bulkhead in place already you should make a 1.5" Standpipe. Typically you would then drop the pipe size to 1.25" below the bulkhead to the sump however since it's only a 35 gallon and your flow rate is going to be fairly low you should drop it to 1".
If a 1.5" Standpipe won't fit in your overflow a couple bushings in the bulkhead will allot for a smaller standpipe. You could go as small as 1" for the standpipe and 3/4" for the drain line below.

If the durso design is just too big for the overflow no matter what look into a stockman or HGB.

Also just note that you need a 1/8" hole drilled in the top of the cap on the durso standpipe.

hmm good to know, think I will head out to the hardware store or red coral and see what I need for fittngs etc.

Try and fit a 90 that will male socket on one end, this will help with clearance.

went out got 1.5" fittings no way in hell the 1.5" or even a 1" fitting will fit in this overflow which sucks..so now i dunno what to do, i guess look into the stockman and HGB style, anyone have some good info on those?

A street elbow, here is a link to a pic.

http://www.fdsons.com/34x12-cpvc-red...5-p-38134.html

wont fit no way no how.

What about a herbie overflow? Just have a straight pipe sticking up and drill a hole for a other bulkhead into the back of the tank that goes into the overflow? The straint pipe takes all your water (gate valve to adjust with precision) and you put a 90 on the new bulkhead and that's your emergency. The 90 can be high up and straight pipe can end halfway between bottom and the 90. I did this check my build thread. I drilled into the side of an external overflow but same idea.

never drilled glass before, and the tank is probably 1/2" glass all around. not to mention im not buying bits just to drill one hole...is there another option?

I'm not sure but that's what I'd do. If you ask around I'm sure you can find someone to drill it for a few beers or something. I gave Tony (Delphinus) a t-shirt and a slap on the ass. Glass was 1/2" and he got'er done!

oh dear :S i dunno if I can live up to a tshirt and slap on the ass....

A cheater way is to not use a bulkhead.... if you get a male threaded 1.5" PVC fitting, a flemale one and a soft O-Ring you can make a bulkhead out of it pretty easy. Cut the female threaded fitting off to use it as a tightening nut, and now you have a 1.5" PVC fitting in a 1.5" hole. 1.5" can flow 1200+GPH pretty easy, I was getting 1200+ on mine when it was duroso, now much more as herbie. Specs say 1600GPH, with gravity feed.

not sure i understand what you said at all lol im a newbie with plumbing and this is my first tank with a sump, it was all pre-plumbed, drilled etc. im just trying to make it less noisy.

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...9/stockman.jpg

anyone used the stockman style before?

stockman
 

i switched from a durso to a stockman and i'm very happy with it-takes up way less room and is matinence free

A stockman works fine but it's a little harder to make. If you can fit a 2" coupling in your overflow then use 1.25" pipe and a 1.25"x2" bushing. You'll have to drill or grind off the bushing stop so the bushing can slide onto 1.25" pipe far enough so the pipe protrudes far enough through the bushing to allow a 1.25" cap to fit. Just as with the stockman you'll need a 1/8" hole in the top of the cap to prevent siphon. You'll also want a 1.5x1.25" bushing for the top of the bulkhead for the standpipe and you'll still want to reduce the drain pipe size to 1" for best results.

A good tip when building a standpipe is to make it taller than you need and then trim the base of the pipe to fit after it's built.

generally people use bulkheads that look like this:
http://www.radio-media.com/fish/Bulkhead.jpg

What you can do is use this male adapter:
http://ukirrigation.weirdpepper.com/...988552_247.jpg

and make a nut for it by cutting a female adapter off at the threads:
http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:A...rlil2mDwsNCu9T

You will need a seal still, so using the seal from a bulkhead, or finding one in a hardware store works fine.


The only reason to do this is to get a little bit extra flow through a smaller hole. With a bulkhead you are inserting a bulkhead into the hole, then a pipe into the bulkhead, this reduces the hole size that water actually flows through.

I'd stick with using a bulkhead.

making a stockman pipe right now...let you know how it turns out..

Just hate that I had to buy a full 10ft stick of 1.5" PVC just to use 20" or less

1.5" is pretty big, what size coupling are you using?

2"

That will give you less than a 1/4" clearance so it'll be tight but I guess you're not pushing much flow anyway. You might not be able to get it super quiet with the over sized pipe but let us know how it turns out.

looking around a lot of people say that if you have 1.5" pipe and use a 2" coupling it works great so, figure why not try

If you look up 'hofer gurglebuster' you'll come across another method of quieting your drain. I believe it's actually a variation of the Stockman. I don't have personal experience with either of these and did read that it may be more prone to clogging, but you may want to investigate nevertheless. Here's a link to get you started.

http://home.everestkc.net/jrobertson...struction.html

The HGB isn't ideal for most applications. Good for external overflows with height limitations but the stockman is easier and more reliable. The HGB is just a reverse stockman, you have to tune it by sliding the coupling and bushing assembly up to partially cover the side holes to closely match the flow rate and then for further tuning you need to insert a 1/4" tube into the pipe from the cap to exhaust the air from a precise location. More trouble than they are worth and from all the ones I've seen people use they end up reversing the coupling creating a plain old stockman.

i just built a very crude model, threw it together and...it sounds so much softer now. I followed this diagram
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...9/stockman.jpg

did the same idea but I drilled 4 holes with a 13/32 bit, and 8 holes with a 5/32 bit, and in the top cap I drilled a 1/8 hole works good and the pump and drain seem to be working well together I will be watching both closely for the next hour or so and see if the pump is going faster than the drain but right now seems good.