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Next point - tank levelling
So I've built the stand, it's big and heavy, and it sits right across a hump in the floor (almost an inch play side to side). At 2500 pounds, am I ok to use wooden shims on the corners (can't reach back edge once in place) or should I look at great levelling?
I thought of framing in the area and pouring some quick set on plastic to create a mini slab, but that might crack at the edges and be bad.... thoughts? |
I sure hope wooden shims will suffice. Although what I did on the low side was cut a 2x4 to the width needed and slid that under the 2x4 that was at the bottom of the stand. It was the middle that proved to be a challenge because it was a triangular gap now, so I just jammed a whole lot of shims in the middle under the centre vertical post until they were one solid mass, then I chopped off the bits that hung out from under the stand, and then I encased that in silicone on the tank side and Great Stuff on the outside - those shims are not moving anywhere anytime soon.
I believe Michika used some kind of levelling compound. I would suspect because of the edge cracking you mention, that if you went that route that you have to do an area larger than the tank stand so that the stand is not sitting anywhere near the edges. But I'm no builder so what do I know.. |
Given the chance I would level the area properly with some self leveling mortar.
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It does depend on the stand construction, but also on the floor.
I am assuming that this is an older home with maybe douglas fir floor joists, a 3/4" subfloor and 3/4" hardwood flooring material. Is the hump from the subfloor and floor finish material? Or is the hump from a crown in the floor joist? Is the hump stable? Does it creak if you stand or jump on it? If the hump isn't stable, anything you pour on it now will surely crack once weight is put on it. If the hump is from the hardwood flooring and subfloor only, the tank setup may level itself. If the hump is from a floor joist, then even 2500 lbs won't straighten that out and you will need to shim. If the stand is built with bottom plates on edge, then you could be fine with relying on 3 points of support - the hump plus shimming on each end. If the the stand is built with bottom plates on flat, then shimming in numerous places under the stand would be recommended. Lots of "if's". Pics of the stand, floor area from above and below would help. Hopefully you can see the underside of the floor from the basement. Mitch |
Exactly my thoughts. Get it perfect.
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Rather than having a stand with a flat base or lengthwise beams as a base add four legs, one at each corner. This makes leveling much easier. The legs don't have to be anything overly tall, just high enough to clear the uneven surface, even some of those furniture pads for hardwood floors can work well.
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Finished floor...wood, tile, lino..?
Mitch |
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My stnad is basically designed after this
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=1169964 although I used 2x4 on top, with one centered brace in rear and two at 3rds in front. Plywood bottom and a false 6" back added to hide plumbing. |
Sounds like the best way would be to add 1/2 plates to each end of the stand to clear the hump, then shim the hump area.
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Laminate floors on foam are meant to "float" to allow for expansion and contraction. If you weigh down the laminate floor permanently with an aquarium, you could notice buckling in other areas of the room.
I would cut out the laminate and then either level with shims (plastic or wood) or go ahead with a self levelling cement. Mitch |
hmm.. maybe I should take a road tripto Victoria to give you a hand. do it like we did your other one. wooden shims, but not just at the corner. we did the other tank in more places than that.
you want the bottom to be suported all along so ever 2 or 3" put a shim. if there realy is that much of a hump then you can do as sugested as put 1/2" plywood strips under the places that it will fit then shim that if needed. the other way, which is the way I would do it, is to build a "bottom" to the frame which you build directly on the floor and make dead level then mount the frame to it. but this involves being able to rip 2X4s on an angle, so might not be the simplest way for ya, and would raise your stand up at least another inch or two. Steve |
Personally, if it isn't off that much, I wouldn't worry, but otherwise I think wooden shims would work. Only problem is that maybe they can deteriate over time from weight, water, etc.
My tank is off just a bit, but I never adjusted. It was perfectly level when put in place, but after time with water it is off a bit, just slightly. If you look hard you can see it. I use a level quite often to keep tabs on it, as it is on a second floor of my home, and it has never moved. Using the level, the stand is level, if I put the level on the light it is level, but if I put it on the tank it is off a few millimetres. Oh well, I am not worried. |
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Yeah, I'm not there and can't see it, I'm just saying what I know about some things...:lol:
Free advice and all... I try to give advice like I'm being paid for it. Don't want somethng to come back and haunt me.:wink: Mitch |
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Ya, it's hard to say, and pics won't show enough detail to be any help, but so far, all good advice. Well, except the part about Steve coming to my house :) |
Meh...you're good to go as far as support for the weight of the tank.
As far as making it pretty and down the road not saying "I should have done "****" differently - that's your call.:smile: Mitch |
Wide, hardwood shims every 5 to 6 inches and you're good to go.
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The 4 corners are more important to be solid than the center, I really believe that doing the corners rigidly is better than shims that may give and leave the center as the main support. |
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Steve |
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