DI Recharging
 

Anyone know where to get the chemicals to recharge DI resin? And any tips you have on how to do it would be appreciated. :biggrin:

hardware store for the HCL, grocery store for the Lye (NaOH). There is an article about recharging, shouldn't be hard to find.

go see brent @ union pumps on fraser hwy and 232 he will beable to fix you up tell him i sent you .

Re: DI Recharging
 

Muriatic acid at Revy. Lye at Safeway. Instructions are at http://www.reefs.org/library/article...mann_chem.html

I have recharged many times, I still use a 50% mixture of Muriatic Acid and water even though the stuff bought locally is 20 baume. After recharging run lot's of water through it, and when in use run it for a couple of minutes to get rid of the fishy smell. Don't know why it is but it seems to be a byproduct of the recharging process. The smell eventually goes away

Any more Q's fire away.

Thaks Guys.

Anyone have some used DI they no longer want? PM me

I'm curious as to what recharging DI really means? I recently purchased what I thought was new DI resin from Jayson (It was a large bottle of Sand like stuff), to re-load into my RO/DI machine's cannister. The entire jar was around $30 and should last me over a year. Is this the same as re-charging?

Rob

Nope, that would be replacing the old resin with new resin. :mrgreen:

Recharging is when you take old, expired resin, throw a bunch of chemicals at it and make it new again.

Well I did my recharging last night. Very long process, but worth it in the long run. My chemicals cost me $10, plus $20 for some used DI resin. Ive now got enough separated resin for about 5 refils. And when it comes time to recharge again, Ive already got the leftover chemicals to do it.
Its well worth it, especialy when your paying $30-$45 a pop for a brand new DI cartridge.

Hey Chris, Will the recharged beads still change color when exhausted?

After separation and recharge, your left with brown resin and and green resin. The green will turn color as its exhausted but not the brown. You just fill your cartridge with half of each resin separated by a thin filter pad. Then when the green all turns purple its time to recharge both resins again.

One last thing Chris, it's better to recharge the resins when the green resins are no more than 3/4 exhausted. Just because there is some life left in them doesn't mean the brown resins haven't been exhausted. All depends what contaminents are in your water. A better way is to use a TDS meter as opposed to relying on the color change.

Where do you buy your resins, I've got the Aquarium Pharmaceuticals DI filter, but the resins are mixed together.

Doug

http://www.lmas.org/diy/RSH%20Tap%20...structions.pdf

Bryan, thank you so much for that, wow I've got to try that, to bad I've tossed out about 10 cartridges. I've already got both the Muriatic acid and the Lye so I guess I'm pretty much set, I just have to use up my DI cartridge now.

Doug

Just a note on this. Please perform this operation in a well ventilated area. The first time you try it, it can take an hour or more. Also, when mixing chemicals with water, add the acid or base to water, not water to the acid or base. Mix gently as you add them. OK, that's the safety tip for the day!!

Thanks Brad, I figured it wouldn't be smart to do it in the furnace room so I'll do it outside under cover. The Muriatic acid container says the same thing, add to water do not add water to the acid (me thinks there must be a reason but I don't want to find out what)

Doug