Red Algae Invasion VS. DIY XP2 reactor! More Advice Needed About a Product.
 

Ok I now have 1 of my Rena XP2's running as a phos reactor. Bottom basket has 2 foam's with Pura Phoslock in the middle, top basket has Pura Carbon between the foam running @ approx. 63 gph.

Also bought some UltraLife Red Slime Remover. Have not used it yet, kinda nervous as I have heard that it has killed peoples tank but have also heard it works great (not that I don't trust you Triggz, just need to know more people have used it and it worked). Experiences please!!

When I had cyano I increased my water changes, syphoned as much algae out as I could and used a zeovit product called Coral Snow. I also added a powerhead for better flow.

I do have 4 - 1300 gph power head's. Just did a water change as phos & nit's were a little high. I am going to check it again in a few hour's. I will have to syphon out the red algae next I guess.

Hey,

As your nitrates are high, do some more water changes. Coral Snow neutralizes undesirable acids and is a solution against slime algae and cyano bacteria. I use it everyday as I am on Full Zeo, but do recommend this product to people that are not using Zeo, it does work.

What is your bioload? I can't remember, maybe you are a little high there.

Also, If I recall this is a new system, maybe you are just doing too much too fast. Best thing about this hobby is patience and taking your time.

Call me if you wish on my cell (you still have it?) we can talk it over.

I agree with the coral snow also. I had a bad out break myself and I fought it by doing a 3 to 4 day black out and added coral snow and I havent seen any red slime in 3 months

What kind of water are you using Grizz? I had a bad outbreak 2 summers ago when I started experimenting with tap water because I ran out of RO. Mixed up a fresh bucket of salt water and scrubbed every rock in my tank. Did a complete water change using RO and haven't had a problem since.

Hey it was great talking with you again, keep in touch. Let me know how it goes.

I have a whole house RO system (big $$$ system) that produces water with a better quality then store bought.

Thanks for the info Rick. After 2 - 20% water change's (1 yesturday and 1 today)

Phos is at .5 ish
Ph. is at 8.4
NO3 is at 0
NO2 is at 0
NH3 is at 0
calcium is at 380 but have not dosed today yet
KH is at 196 ppm

Hey Greg, if you have any Red Slime on the substrate of your tank i find that if you bury it with other substrate in your tank that isnt covered in algea it ends up dying instantly. that is what i did with my tank and it worked great!

Filter out Phosphates, regardless what test is showing, your live rock and sand is a phosphate storage, you may read low in the water column but that doesn't mean actual phos are low, if you have algae that usually means you have phosphates.

Hey man, the red slime is probably a bacteria called cyano, and isn't in fact an algae. You can go to any local pet store and ask about it, they should have a powder that you dose the tank with (will cost about $10) and it should kill off the bacteria within 48 hours, unless it is really bad and it will take two times that long. I had the same problem and this cured it really well. The red stuff will die and turn brown and if you have snails they'll clean the dead stuff up. Hope this works for you, let me know.

And oh yeah, if you are using flake food, then the cyano is prolly a sign that you are over feeding.

This has worked for my system
 

You have a cyno bacteria which will take over your tank and may harm your corals. Your live rock and sand(?) are more than likely saturated with phosphates. You need to remove all of your live rock/sand and place them in a covered, heated tube for a period of 3-4 weeks (or more) with a small skimmer or water changes (every 2-3 days). This will allow your rock/sand to re-cure. Clean your rock first (toothbrush works great) and re-clean at each water change. Only place back into your main tank when water stays clean, rock smells and looks right. This sounds drastic but just adding chemicals is wrong! You have to find the source of the phosphates and eliminate them (overfeeding/overstocking). I have found adding a Phosphate Reactor to the system along with good Reverse Osmosis water will prevent further issues.

re
 

yeah, that would work too. But more likely than not you are simply over feeding. That's what happened to me.

Yes we have discovered that it was an over feeding problen. I have a few corals that like to be feed and have had recieved some bad info about a few other that don't need to be target feed. So now I am only target feeding a couple of my coral that close over the food right away and eat it all and not the rest. going to check phos levels again tonight and have ordered some Zeovit Coral Snow. Removed all the red algae ( was not slimy) peeled of in a fine sheet, small piece's that I could see and get to. As I have a 155 with about 80 lbs of sand and about 100 lbs of rock removing it all to clean and kure again is not really an option right now.

I have a whole house RO system (massive $$$) Water quality better then store bought. I think I will invest in a reactor. Got any sugestions on what to get?

Idea though is get a good overall flow, not blasting it all out of one or two nozzles.

I use Two Little Fishies PhosPhate Reactor 550 with their PhosBan Media on my 140 gallon with great success. They also have a smaller unit , PhosPhate Reactor 150.

I have 4 sprayer bar's run off a 1100 gph little giant pump and 4 1300 gph powerheads. All pushing in a different direction.

Do you run then from your sump or out of the main display tank?

Could I use a Rena XP2 Cannister filter to make a phos reactor? Sandwiching PhosBan in between form in one level & do the same for carbon in the top level.

May work, the only problem i see is that your flow may be to great and turn your phosban into a fine powder which could then be flushed out of the canister and be useless. Phosban granules are fairly soft just the action of grinding against one another under heavy flow can pulverize them.
Canister filters also tend to become phosphate generators if they are not kept very clean so keep a close watch on it if you go this way.

I have a flow valve that came with the XP2 so that you are albe to decrease the flow or even shut it off completely. I would also use a filter bag if needed. When I was using the XP2 on my 65 gal SW I would clean it every 3rd day.

Ok XP2 is up ad running with lower level with Pura Phoslock between 2 foam pads, upper level with Pura Carbon between 2 foam pads running @ 67 gph. Intake coming out of sump inlet side & returning in to pump side.

Question though has anyone ever used a product called Red Slime Remover by UltraLife? Experience's please.

I wouldnt use it. Ive been told by some that its good as a last resort in a FOWLR but not a reef. Try zeovit coral snow and cut the lights for 3 days. Worked for me!:biggrin:

Cheers
Ray

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