New Reviewer required apply within
 

Hey guys,

Well its been a while and we are at it again :)

We are looking for a new reviewer to demonstrate the effectiveness of Ultra Bio and Ultra Life at lowering/reducing/clearing cyano (the dreaded red stuff)

So to qualify we need someone with Cyano please send me some pictures of your tank and the worst case will get the review kit :)

I've got cyano, but don't really want my tank to turn into a guinea pig :P

Dont worry this is not a new product it has been around for years in Europe and already successfully sold in canada by many of our dealers.

The purpose of the review is to demonstrate to users how it works not if it works.

Ultra Bio is part of the Ultra lith system and has many functions away from the Lith system itself. The Ultra Life is a binding agent that removes high bio loads from the tank

Read here

http://shop.faunamarin.de/product_in...ltra-Life.html

and page 8 of the manual-

http://shop.faunamarin.de/media/cont...08_eng_red.pdf

Cyanobacteria:
The combination of UltraBio and UltraLife are a very effective treatment against cyanobacteria in reef tanks. Cyanobacteria form red films or carpets which can cover the entire decoration. They are good indicators for a misbalance between nutrients. An addition of UltraBio and Ultralife will reactivate the growth of a healthy and diverse bacterial population by balancing out the nutrients.

I have the perfect candidate, 135 gal FOWLR, perfectly healthy fish but persistant cyano, tank I set up for my parents, I think dear ol dad feeds too much, will post some pics tomorrow.

Oh dam, where were you last week? My Nano was a complete disaster.

How is the tank now?

Better than it was but it always comes back. I will do a review if you would like as soon as it gets bad again. Would this product affect diatoms at all? I am constantly battleing those as well in both my tanks.

Hi

Yes it will/should reduce diatoms as you are lowering or removing best case the food source (nitrate and Po4).

If you can post here two things

1. nitrate reading
2. heat tested PO4 (heat a sample of tank water to 80oC and allow to cool for 5 mins, then test for PO4)

Poor pics but the bottom and a good portion of the live rock have persistent cyano problems, set up is certainly worthy of looking better than it does now.

http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/r...5/IMG_2169.jpg

http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/r...5/IMG_2175.jpg

http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/r...5/IMG_2180.jpg

I would be more than happy to trial anything that will help make it look better, thanks.

I bet in a month, my 150 will be starting the Cyano. Just like the 45 did. Battled it for a year.

Hi

Thanks for the photos, looks like good candidate for all sorts of things :)

I need first to know what we are dealing with, what is the devil inside

Can you give me full tank spec including

pH
PO4 - heat test
Nitrate
fitration method
lighting cycle
sand bed depth
live rock or not?

I will then give you a dosing regime for this. But from the looks of the tank you will need to do some maintenance steps firect, the products for reviewing are good, but lets give the a head start ;)

I will test the parameters this afternoon and post the readings. Equipment as follows
-135gal glass tank dual overflow
-Lighting 2x 72" VHO T-12 Icecap660 10hours on 14 off (bulbs changed annually)
-35 gal sump
-Older Tunze skimmer (planning upgrade)
-Lifeguard 40w UV sterilizer (new bulb every 6 months)
-Approx 100 lbs liverock (10+ years old, good coralline coverage, pest free)
-Substrate approx 100lbs very coarse coral rubble
-Circulation, 800gph return pump and Vortech MP20

Fish load ( All fish 7 years old and very healthy)
-1 Majestic Angel
-1 Threadfin Butterfly
-2 Green Chromis
-1 Ocellaris Clown
-2 Cleaner Shrimp
-2 Yellow tail Damsels

Minor Hair Algae and persistent Cyano problem, suspect problem is Dad overfeeding the tank, I do 30 gal waterchange every 6 weeks, not dosing any additives currently.

Ok

Gonna need those paremters though

Nitrate and PO4 especially. ;)

Parameters
-PH 8.1
-No3 19.1ppm
-Phosphate 16.2ppm
-Ammonia 0
-Nitrite 0
Readings taken with Medusa Colorimeter, I am mixing water as we speak to do a water change.

Bingo, there is the little devil :twised:

PO4!

Do a heat test at that level and it will be higher than that.

First thing important here is regular water changes, what is happening by doing such staggered changes is the PO4 is leaching into everything it can including the live rock, in fact your live rock is one big yummie PO4 bath right now.

You need to do at a one off 25% for two weeks followed by weekly 10%.

The Ultra Life and the Ultra Bio will help significantly in skimming out all the nutrients, but this will not be a quick fix under no illusion.

If you are game I will send you the Ultra Life and Bio, but you will need to be strict in following what is recomended.

LMK ;)

I'm game, I will be doing a 30 gal waterchange tomorrow and will repeat every 2 wks untill the numbers get back in line, did'nt think it was that bad as the fish are looking real good.

My PO4 allways .005 or less. Most times, I can not detect it with the Salfert kit.

In regards to the fish not being affected by high PO4 you are 100% right they will show no real sign of stress although it can lead to a general weakness of teh immune system as the fish are kept in conditions that are not native to them, nitrate in high levels will also cause gill deformaties.

The biggest issue for fish only systems is tank appearance, algal blooms Cyano, to name just two.

Drop me an email at sales@aqua-digital.com and we can go from there.

Dan - do a heat test on the PO4 then see the results, it could be higher than you really think.

Never heard of a heat test, how do I do that?

Take a sample of tank water
Heat to 80oC
Allow to cool for 5 mins
Take PO4 test

What does this do?

PO4 is bound into the water molecules, when not heated only the loose PO4 elements are tested, by heating it PO4 elements are released and as such giving you the TRUE PO4 reading.

Would it make any difference that my tanks are around 81C right now? It being summer time and all.

If your tank was 81c right now, that being 19c below boiling point, I would not worry to much about your PO4 as you will be having boiled fish for supper tonight.

:lol:

Boil to 80 degrees centrigrade not F :wink:

LMAO, it too early, need coffee. Ya C not F DUHHHH

You could write a recipe for boiled Nemo

"Dont fall off the wagon Bruce, fish are our friends not supper"

:lol:

LMAO, I soo hate it when my friends joke about cooking my fish.:D

:wink:

Post up your heat tested PO4 results, will be interesting to see the difference.

Well, I heated the water till just started to see a couple boil/ let cool, about 4 hrs. The reading is off the chart. I would guess 6-7 judging by the shade increase from the last one on the test sheet.

Now, if heating it gives true PO4, why doesn't the directions call to heat it? I mean, if the kit is not accurate as described? Thought Salfert was one of the good brands.

Hiya

You may have over played it a bit, only let stand for 5 mins then test this is important.

In regards to why manufacturers do not advertise this fact, i have no clue, but one thing for sure is that when fauna release all their range of test kits you will have all info available to you on how to perform accurate tests