New 110 gallon cube
 

Just picked up the new tank from Bow Valley, looks really good. They also had an old Petland tank there that would work well as a sump, so for a few bucks I picked that up too.

Cube is 36x36x20", 110 gallons.

Sump is 36x16x16", 40 gallons.

I'll post pics as soon as I can get into my basement.:turn-l:

looking forward to watch the build on this tank :)

Ditto ... Danny let me know if you need a hand grunting that thing down the stairs..

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I might try to bribe one or two of my neighbors with some beer to get a hand with it. I'll call you if they aren't around.

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Got the tank down stairs and resting in it's home for now.

The tank:
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...p/IMGP1784.jpg

The sump:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...p/IMGP1785.jpg

Looks awesome, Danny. Love the industrial setting :wink:

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I'll have to be very careful about where I end up putting this tank. If I position it correctly it will become an in-wall system when I develop the basement.

Sharp looking tank, like the size, did you get starphire glass?

What are you planning for the overflow, I see you did not go with an external overflow. Are you going to have the overflow in the centre of the tank??? I love this design, and you can have electrical conduit going up and down as well for your power to keep it nice and clean looking.

What is planned for the lighting?

Looks good Danny, are you planning a larger version of your 65g reef or something different?

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I didn't get starfire, couldn't afford it. I haven't quite decided what to do for the overflow yet. I'm leaning towards building external overflows/fuge . Everything from my old tank (65 gallon) will be moved into this one, minus a couple of boring fish. The lighting will remain the same as well, which is currently 1 400 watt MH with 2 36" HO T5 actinics. The reason I chose this size of tank was so that I could utilize all of my existing lights, livestock and filters etc. The only things I will have to buy for this is the pump & plumbing for the closed loop.

I wanted to revert back to the "bommie" reef style that I once had, and really liked. So the rock work and corals will be centered under the lighting, and I'll leave lots of room around the edges for the fish to swim.

What's a bromie?

Edit: Oh ... ok by your description I'm guessing you mean "bommie". Sorry never mind :razz:

Soooo...what the heck is a bommie, then?!!?!

I think the origin of the term is Australian. Anyhow, the best definition I've found is a "tower-like coral structure sticking out from a sandy bottom."(*)

(* - Since I'm quoting a page, the reference link is: http://www.divernet.com/cgi-bin/arti...=2799&sc=&ac=d )

similar to my cubish tank i had built just before xmas. moved my 65 into it as well :) chose that because of my lighting- hey this story sounds familiar. Cant wait to szee the pics of this running. might give me some new ideas for aquascaping

what ever happened with this tank. I would like to see an update?

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There isn't really anything to update right now. I haven't even built the stand yet. I'm going for the 'Tony' approach to this tank build. talk to you again in 2009. :razz:

yup take the tony way its the slowest and the safest way to go ....

Danny, did you want me to correct your year reference and change one of those 0's to a 1? :)

:rofl: oh dear... oh dear.

Maybe that will get your arse in gear.

You have kids Lando? ... just curious. :p

Leave my infertility out of this. :razz:

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That about sums it up.:biggrin:

I guess maybe Dan & I need to just show up at each other's places to shame ourselves into getting progress on the tanks. Err, I mean, help each other out with the build process. :mrgreen:

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Looks like this might take even longer than I expected it to take. The family and I have decided to move to BC, so it's been bumped to an even lower rung on the priority ladder.

Wow, big step! Sorry to hear you're leaving town .. where will you guys be moving to?

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Built the stand today. Just the frame any way, I still have to finish it with panels and paint etc.


http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...p/IMGP2843.jpg

With the sump inside.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...p/IMGP2844.jpg

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Oh ya, moving back to BC has been put on hold for a while. So thats why I've started to work on this project again.

looking good! what do you plan to use for trim? i'm going to build a new stand for my 120 and would like more ideas.
be sure to keep us posted with pics.....

bummer moving away eh?

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I'm thinking of MDF panels with some sort of trim around the top and bottom, sort of a base board and crown molding effect. I'm also thinking of attachong them with rare earth magnets for easy removal.

It is a bummer, thats why we've decided to stay a bit longer.

looks good Tony i like making stand with the basic's and then do the fancy stuff to the outside.

the closed loop
 

So I had to take the tank back to Bow Valley to get some changes done. As it turns out I wasn't able to drill the holes for my closed loop into 3/8" glass. I had them put a 1/2" glass panel on the back of the tank. I also figured I'd have them drill it since they had it there. So here it is, with 2" bulkheads for the closed loop, 1 1/2" overflow and a 1" retrun.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...p/IMGP2918.jpg
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...p/IMGP2915.jpg

Here is most of the parts required to build the closed loop.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...p/IMGP2914.jpg

Here is the return to the Sequence dart. I used 2" PVC all the way down to prevent pump cavitation. There's a 2" valve and a union for easy removal when pump servicing is needed.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...p/IMGP2920.jpg
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...p/IMGP2923.jpg

Here is the return via a split manifold. I also have a valve and union on the return side. I ran 1.5" PVC up to the split, then reduced it to 1" for the actual manifold. This should give me good pressure through the 6 x 3/4" locklines I will eventually use.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...p/IMGP2921.jpg

I must have been tired the night I was working on the manifold because I messed it up a bit. I intended to put a split before the valve under the stand with another valve that I could open for water changes. I forgot to do this.

The water change valve was instead placed higher up behind the tank just before the split for the manifold. It should still work, but will instead be more gravity fed than anything else. Oh well, my water changes will take a bit longer. You can see where the water change valve is in the picture below.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...p/IMGP2922.jpg

I still need to locate the lock lines from somewhere. I'll probably end up ordering them from J&L because I can't find them locally. Once I've tested the closed loop I'll get to work on the sump plumbing.

Oh ya, I painted the back of the tank white. I've seen tanks with white backs before and like the clean look. Eventually, you won't see much of the back wall anyway.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...p/IMGP2925.jpg
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...p/IMGP2924.jpg

did you move or not? jj. looks great.

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No we opted to stay for a while. After going out to BC we decided it would cost us a bit too much right now. After this project is finally completed I think i'll want to stay put for a while anyway.

thats great to know. i wasn't sure if it was you or someone else who was going to move.

Danny I have a manifold on my tank and wished I had put more outlets on. I would consider a minimum 8 with preferably 12 manifold outlets with your setup. Looks good though. BTW why did you have to change to 1/2 glass?.
Looks great it will be a nice setup.
Kevin

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The reason I had to upgrade the back panel to 1/2' was so that I could sleep at night. Bow valley told me that 3/8" may have been ok, but 1/2" is certainly not going to break.

What was the flow rate of the pump you used for your manifold Kevin? The sequence dart offers 3600 ghp, which will work out to 600 gph per nozel. (not factoring in head loss of course) My thinking when I chose 6, was that I should be able to achieve the chaotic flow I like without using power heads. Do you think 600 gph is too much flow out of a 3/4" nozel? it really takes nothing to add more nozels to the maniflold.

I guess it would be relatively easy to cap some nozzles as opposed to adding more later. That's one way to look at it.

Danny Wow 600 per 3/4" is very strong in my opinion. Try 12 + as I found with a light flow you can then target corals or dead spots reasonably. I am running about 120 gph through 1/2" and it is perfect for keeping corals gently moving without being abusive and it doesn't blow the #### out of a fish if it hits the stream. All my tanks I build from now on will have a manifold with multiple outlets. What are you going to use to skim the top water in the tank?. Maybe consider 4 strong ones mixing up the top water of the tank and 6-8 on 1/2" lock-line for spot targeting.
Kevin