DI vs RODI
 

I'm sure I've seen this somewhere else but I'm going to be lazy and not use the search function :razz:

So I just moved into a new place and the water pressure is practically non existent (ok not quite that bad :wink:). However it takes about 18h + to make about 15 gallons of water using my 100gph RO membrane (nothing is wrong with the membrane and the filters are new. the old house it took about 8 hours). I have a limited amount of time to get various fish related things done so I'm wondering if taking off the RO will speed things up (as well as save me money due to the water going down the drain). And I'm also wondering if this will be ok for my reef (Keep in mind that I can grow algae like nobodys business :razz:). I think the TDS in Nanaimo is only about 13 most of the time.

If it's any help Christy. My well water is charcoal filtered (via the house filter) then run through a brita. I don't have many algae issues except for a little bit of hair on a pump or 2.

Christy,
Using the DI will only remove magnesium and calcium from the water, and the small ro units is meant to only polish the remaining 5-10% that slips past the RO membrane. The RO membrane does so much more than remove Ca and Mg hardness from the water, such as other trace poisonous metals, bacteria, and viruses, etc etc.
You can get a booster pump for your RO which increases your system pressure and production, for about $100.

Get a pump, but it costs more then $100.

List is about $225, but you might be able to get it for around $130 or so.

If the TDS is zero from your water purification method are you not accomplishing the same thing ? With RO or without ?

Always learning.


Wendell

DI will run out faster wthout the RO......... I had a friend who used the "Tap Water" DI unit.......... withour water (no greater then 17 ppm TDS) was able to get 300 gallons a cartridge.

There are ways to regenerate the DI resins but they involve some harsh chemicals and if your not used to working with them............. I would not go that route.

http://www.reefs.org/library/article/twp_recharge.html

http://www.reefs.org/library/article/g_deutschmann.html

Cheers,
Vic [veng68]

Is it a newer house? I wonder why the pressure is lower. When I moved into my new place I found the water pressure hugely lower, I found out it's because I have a pressure regulator on the main. I ended up bypassing the regulator for my RO/DI and it improved things quite a bit. I should have bypassed it for my outside lines too because I don't have enough to get two of those tsh-tsh-tsh-tsh sprinklers going properly in the summer when it's time to water the lawn.

Anyhow just a thought, could there be a regulator on the water line?

With such a low source TDS I would go the DI route. I actually did that with my first tanks and they were big....used the tap water purifier.

TDS does not measure bacteria and viruses. An RO unit will make sure these are cleared from the water as well.

Bacteria and viruses???? Sorry but I need some backup infor for that. :wink:

Which one? That there is bacteria and viruses in water or that an RO unit filters these out?

If you are thinking of going the booster route, Aquasafe's unit is $85 USD, delivered.

http://www.aquasafecanada.com/accesories.htm

Thanks, I think I may well go that route.:biggrin:

As for the bacteria and viruses. I should hope that my tapwater has been treated enough that it doesn't contain any of those. I'm mostly more interested in how available nutrients are for algae fuel.

That is a good price, but a couple things to consider:

It doesn't have auto controls (so you have to have it on a timer or only plug it in when you make water)
It only goes up to 80psi (mine goes to 90-110 psi and I get better rejection from my RO that way)