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Brand new very affordable Metal Hallide Pendent Set ups
Realized these bulbs arent for North America. Sorry.
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if you look a little harder these ballasts state "Vollage:220-250v" a lot of people do not have the resource or the capability to supply 220 power to there tank. so if they bought one it would be useless to them.
steve |
has to be 210 or below for north america
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See I dont know much about the requirements for north america good thing you guys caught that. lol
Thanks. |
Everyone has 120 and 240volts in there house in North America.
To get 240 you need to use a 2 pole breaker, and you both parts of the phase. You will have 2 "hot" wires and then 1 neutral and 1 ground. You would have to run a 3wire to your tank to power the light thats all. |
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what I did in the old house was run a 15 amp 240 to my tank where I split it directly into two 15 amp runs of 120. Steve |
So the seller messaged me back and told me he also carries a north american version with a 110V ballast. Would this be able to run in North america? Also what do you guys think about the bulbs themselves are they strong enough to give good light to a 55 gal tank(21 inches high 4 ft long) if I were to have 2 pendents?
He says he only has 70W and 150W so thats why Im asking if I could pretty much grow anything with these lights. Also arent the double ended HQI bulbs supposed to be better than the single ended bulbs? That is both for efficiency(lower power usage), longer life and brighter light? |
isn't it 110 and 220?
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I guess we can run 220 but on the previous setup he showed me the bulbs were rated for 220-250. Anyway the new one is 110. So Im thinking that should be ok for NA but I still dont know if 2 150 watt HQI bulbs will be good enough. Also the seller says they are marine bulbs but I dont know. Some on the board say it more looks like a household setup.
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Steve |
I think it's 110 OR 120, depending if your power is hydro or not.
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nope, doesn't matter it is all the same and only had to do with line loss and output regulation.. here is a write up I found so all you non believers can stop trying to make up explanations:mrgreen: "A word on voltages: 110/115/117/120/125/220/240 One thing where things might get a bit confusing is the different numbers people bandy about for the voltage of a circuit. One person might talk about 110V, another 117V or another 120V. These are all, in fact, exactly the same thing... In North America the utility companies are required to supply a split-phase 240 volt (+-5%) feed to your house. This works out as two 120V +- 5% legs. Additionally, since there are resistive voltage drops in the house wiring, it's not unreasonable to find 120V has dropped to 110V or 240V has dropped to 220V by the time the power reaches a wall outlet. Especially at the end of an extension cord or long circuit run. For a number of reasons, some historical, some simple personal orneryness, different people choose to call them by slightly different numbers. This FAQ has chosen to be consistent with calling them "110V" and "220V", except when actually saying what the measured voltage will be. Confusing? A bit. Just ignore it. One thing that might make this a little more understandable is that the nameplates on equipment ofen show the lower (ie: 110V instead of 120V) value. What this implies is that the device is designed to operate properly when the voltage drops that low. 208V is *not* the same as 240V. 208V is the voltage between phases of a 3-phase "Y" circuit that is 120V from neutral to any hot. 480V is the voltage between phases of a 3-phase "Y" circuit that's 277V from hot to neutral. In keeping with 110V versus 120V strangeness, motors intended to run on 480V three phase are often labelled as 440V... " Steve |
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