using Ozone
 

Ok I hooked up the Ozone unit on my tank. Worried about all the horror stories that you read on the net. Now I have the Red Sea deluxe model 200mg with probe and controller. WHat a sweet piece of kit,any how the slight problem that i have is where to start. I have the orp reading currently sitting at 365 on my tank, So I started the Ozone off at 25mg /hr and set the controller to go off at 380 is that too low or should I have it at 400. I'm reading so much starting to second guess my self. With that I wanted to start off slow so i dont wipe out all the stuff and slowly break in the ozone..

mike

If you have an OPR reading of 365 to start off , your tank is probably already very organic/protein clean , that is already a good reading. You are correct to start slow at 25mg/hour, don't second guess your self. :biggrin:
But you probably will never get the OPR up to 400, so don't worry if you can't get it that high.

Tang man thanks I was looking for that answer, Doug and Harvey was stirring me in the right direction. But I just needed another opinion. My ORP is sitting at 375 Just to let ya know .....


Mike

Ya I know, that already a great OPR reading!

Make sure you clean your probe regularly - I noticed my ORP values go higher and higher without cleaning my probe. I found a wire brush and vinegar helped it out nicely. After the cleaning I noticed my ORP which was once 375 was now 279!

Make sure to clean your probe once a month to ensure accuracy of it. Plus with your water volume, a 25mg/hr dose really isn't anything to be overly concerned about.

I use a toothbrush...but ya same idea

So Harvey how much should I be dialing in any ways my orp is kicking around 380- 390 now with 35MG /hr

Set a value, wait a bit and look at your orp. See if those values are being maintained where you want them to be and adjust as neccessary if needed. Its basically like dialing in a calcium reactor.

well Just an update the ozone has been staying steady at 385 where i have set it and for get it man its nice to have the controller to take care of all the pre setting and farting around.


life is good .now i need more corals

I have the same unit on my 250. When I run it at 100% I can get close to 400, but rarely ever go over.

Just slowly take your time (over a couple of months) turning it up until you notice no improvement in your system.

It sounds like your system is good already.

Nice clear water though, yeh?

are you running it into your euroreef skimmer? How has your skimmate looked since putting in ozone? Are you running the output of your skimmer through charcoal?

Regards,
Dsve

the skimmer has black crap in the collection cup and im running it wet any ways
and yes Im running thur the air lines

I'm just hooking up the same unit and I'm wondering if you got correct readings from your probe at once or did it take awhile to break in. Mine has been in about 24 hrs and still seems way too low. (165mv)

It can take 1 -2 weeks to break in the redox probe. I would wait 2 weeks then GENTLY clean it with a toothbrush.

You can also buy small packets of test solution to see if it needs calibrating.

Thanks for the info, I'll give it a while to break-in.

Also the readings vary depending on what the set point is at. The instructions say to take the readings with the set point cranked all the way up.
I get 165 with it cranked up and 48 with set point at the lowest. This is with the selector switch in the reading position. Does that make sense?

Also, after a ton of searching I finally found a reactor for pretty cheap.
It's 22 inches tall and it looks like it comes with same shredded plastic media as the MTC.

http://www.fishkeepers.net/pondconne....php?ID=204598

They are drop shipped from Aquarium Life Support Systems

They don't take Canadian credit cards, just cert. checks or money orders.

I'm going to run the output through a Phosban reactor filled with carbon.

Sound like you are all sorted out. Pressurized reactors are 100% the way to go over using a skimmer. Make sure you filter your air line OUT through carbon as well.

Does your system come with an Air dryer?

Please keep us updated how this works out for you. I am interested in this as well rather than running through my skimmer..

I did get an air dryer and I'll have to figure out a carbon air filter for the exhaust when I get a better look at the reactor.

What are you using for an air pump? Is it adjustable output (like a Luft) or did you have to use a valve to adjust it?

I'm still not sure how you can pressurize the reacter and have an air exhaust.

Your MTC is an awesome piece of hardware, thanks again for the tips.

No worries, and thanks.

I do use a Luft pump to adjust pressure in the chamber actually. What happens is that as the pressure build, the air escapes from the chamber and into the Carbon filter.

Is it possible to push the water into an ozone reactor and then through a fluval full of carbon to get rid of excess ozone?

Wow you guys are sure making this sound complicated... !!! I just run mine through the skimmer... run the effluent from the skimmer through a bag of carbon I change once a month... and the pressurized collection cup I built lets the air escape through another pack of carbon .... If ozone was this hard I wouldn't be running it! :mrgreen:

I think it might work as long as the Fluval did not hinder or speed of the flow. I guess you could just leave it unplugged. Actually, that should work great!

LOL. You are right. Ozone does not have to be that hard.

That being said though, running it through a pressurized reactor increases contact time with the water in a huge way, bringing along a lot of added benefits.

From ReefCentral:

"Skimmers water and air flow rates, and even their engineering design itself, are optimized for skimming, not for ozone injection and reaction. The longer the ozonated water has to react, the more oxidation of organic molecules can take place. This is not a design criterion with skimmers, where the air/water contact time is maximized, but the water alone is not held for any purpose. If the water's flow rate is too high, and hence its turnover rate too high, the concentration of ozone in the water, and the contact time for it to react with organic materials, may be less than optimal."

If you are going to use a skimmer for Ozone

"Select a skimmer that allows a substantial volume of water to be contained within it, so that the ozonated water is not immediately swept away and passed over the GAC (where the ozonation reactions largely end)."

Here is the full article:

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-04/rhf/index.php

I don't know about this one.. newer skimmer designs were made to have a long air water contact time and you are seeing reduced flow skimmers coming out. I bet you my new skimmer will hold the water longer that a little pressurized reactor:lol: that is sense it will probably hold about 15 to 20 gal and only be supplied by a 200 to 400GPH pump.

but seriously, is it not better to have the ozone in the skimmer so all the crud it nukes can be taken away right there?


Steve

:silly: :crazyeye: :scramble: I think following this thread has convinced me that no way could I ever figure out how to set up an ozone unit properly.

[quote=StirCrazy
but seriously, is it not better to have the ozone in the skimmer so all the crud it nukes can be taken away right there?
Steve[/QUOTE]

The thing about Ozone is that it destroys the "nutrients" that make up the "Crud" that the skimmer produces. So essentially, the 2 compete with each other, not compliment. When you use ozone, you should see a reduction in skimate.

I am not really sure about flow through the skimmer. Perhaps some of the new ones are better. I guess what you really want to be sure of is that your water to air contact time is maximized if you do decide to use a skimmer.

Regardless of how you are doing it, there is nothing like the crystal clear water produced with Ozone. It is really amazing. :)

Very true indeed!

That's how I have it hooked up right now and it seems to do a good job. Originally I had the fluval turned on but the flow was far too fast. The only thing I don't like is that I'm using a Coralife Ozone Reactor and the air bubbles produced by the airstone don't seem to discipate that much throughout the bioballs. The air usually just travels straight up the reactor and then into the fluval.

Is the coralife reactor pressurized?

I'm not quite sure what you mean by pressurized. It's sealed, there's no way for air or water to get out unless it's travelling out the outlet hose.

With my reactor the water is sprayed into the cannister and drips down the media and is held inside until the air pressure builds up enough (3 to 5 psi) to push down a float valve and release the water/air back to the tank.

By injecting the Ozone under pressure and keeping some of the water in the chamber, contact time is increased.

Think of it this way.

In a skimmer, the OZONE is constantly pumped into a "body" of WATER and leaves the chamber as fast as the water is pumped through it.

In these reactors, the WATER is sprayed into a pressurized "body" of OZONE , then dripped down media and held for release until pressure is built up.

Perhaps this comparison will help to make more sense as to why reactors work more efficently than any skimmer could.

Notice how there is no body of water in the reactor. Just pressurized Ozone with water dripping down the media.

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2..._1489Large.jpg

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...9/IMG_1480.jpg

Did it come with the gauge?

Yes it did. You adjust the airflow to keep it between 3 and 5 PSI

Where did you say you got it and how much?

I got it here. Great guys.

PRO240D Ozone Reactor
CAF-12 Carbon Air Filter
SR7 Carbon Water Filter

Total 540.00 USD before shipping.

http://www.marinetechnical.com/page6.html

http://www.marinetechnical.com/page17.html

Wow, very nice reactor but too expensive for this guy. I wonder how hard it would be to make something similar?

The reactor showed up today. I think it looks pretty good especially for the price. $88.00 + $20.00 shipping.
No duty or UPS charges for once.

It came with instructions, media, ballvalves, a 5 PSI check valve, all the fittings, clamps and tubing. Some of the fittings are even pre-wrapped with teflon tape.

And a lifetime warranty against leaks.

Here's the pics.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y12...k/IMG_2101.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y12...k/IMG_2102.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y12...IMG_2104_1.jpg

They only take money orders from Canada but they were great to deal with.

My contact was

Harriet at
Aquarium Life Support Systems
3343 Mynatt Ave
Knoxville, Tn 37919
865-588-0108
fax 865-588-1976
www.aqualifesupport.com
harriet@aqualifesupport.com

Follow up
After running this reactor since Oct.13 it's raised my ORP from 275 to 350 and there is a big difference in my 220. I used to have to clean the glass every few days, now it's once a week or so. There was a little cyno in the fuge that is gone as well. The water does really seems to sparkle now under the light in the sump. People have said it makes a big difference and I have to agree.
I imagine it's partly because I had a low ORP to start with.
I had to adjust the skimmers a little bit wetter and the skimmate is more of a green-black color than the green-brown it was.
I'm running a Red Sea 200mg controller at 150mg with a 500g air dryer and a carbon reactor on the output.

And thanks for the help from andrewsk.

Does you 200 mg/hr red sea unit set at 75% run 100% of the time?