Help with setting up sump
 

I have a tank with an external overflow with a 1.5" bulkhead and a 1" bulkhead for a return in the back of the tank. I have a sump that is ready to be used and I am about to buy a MAG submersible pump. Now, what do i need to buy to setup all this up? Where do I purchase the materials? I am completely new to sumps! I am planning to use spa flex, where is it available? I want something super simple for my setup. I am planning on having the overflow drain to my sump and have the water return to the tank, nothing fancy. I just want to make sure I get all the materials needed. Another question I have is how do I attach the spa flex to the return and overflow? Do I use clamps or..??

Thanks

The spa flex can be glued into standard PVC fittings. You need to use the proper solvent cement though. You can probably get the proper stuff at most spa shops. Western Pump on 42 ave SE has it for sure, as well as a great selection of pvc fittings. The regular cement will not hold as well on spa flex since it is too hard. The proper cement has some flexibility to it once cured. Might as well get some of the proper primer too just to make sure it holds.

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Are you planning on using the spa flex for the return as well? If so there will be a lot of drag in the line, unless I'm confused with some other product. Flex pipe has all of the ridges in it, no? Anyway, can you let me know if Western Pump has everything you need, I'm thinking of switching my drain to Flex to cut down on sound.

Spa flex is smooth on the inside.

If I were to use PVC instead, what parts will I need? remember, I want to keep things SIMPLE. Also, with the PVC, do I glue the pieces together? Do I physically glue the PVC part right on the bulkhead? If so, then how do I take it off if I plan to make some revisions in the future?

PVC has to be glued together. You can use couplers to allow for removing pumps etc for repairs and maintenance. Usually the bulkheads have pipe threads, so you can remove the threaded fittings from them if needed. There are bulkheads that are slip fit (glue together) also if you prefer that method.

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Thats what I'm trying to figure out right now. :lol:

You cut it and then cement in new pieces. :lol: That's what couplers are for!!

If you are completely new to sumps, are you aware of any of the precautions to avoid floods that you should take when installing and external overflow?

Nope. Care to elaborate :lol:

Nah, I'll let you figure it out by trial and error. :)

Ok find, here are some of my suggestions:

If your overflow siphon breaks and it stops draining water from your tank. Now your return pump is going to empty the return section of your sump into your tank. So make sure your water level in the tank, and the size of your return section, are matched so that the tank can "absorb" the water from the return section of the sump, and you won't flood. You will burn out your pump though.

If you want to avoid burning out your pump, install a float switch to detect a low water volume, and cut power to the pump if the water volume is too low.

Are you using a CPR style overflow box, or a u-tube design? Make sure each end of the u-tube (if you are using that style) remains submerged in water in the event of a power failure, and restarts when power comes back on. This is easy to simulate.

Also basic maintenance is important, make sure to keep the overflow super-clean and algae free. Also a snail guard is important, use plastic mesh or similar.

And on your next tank, get it drilled like swiss cheese.

sump
 

Best suggestion go here http://www.melevsreef.com/ and read it's a great place to start

normal PVC Cement and primer works fine of flex SPA pipe. mine has been holding for 3 years now and still strong, just make sure you do the primer and use a medium or heavy body glue.

Steve

I am not using the CPR overflow. The tank is drilled for an external overflow.

Searched online a bit before and talked to a couple of Hot Tub places and just ended up gluing my SpaFlex as well with regular PVC cement and primer.

A few thing you should keep in mind.

You will at some point want to take it appart. Use "Unions" in logical spots so that you can remove sections of the plumbing.
If your sump will be located right below the overflow, there is little need for Spa Flex. Save your move and just do it with regular PVC. Or upgrade from Sch 40 to sch 200. it is thiner walled high pressure.

You will want to put a ball valve just after your pump to regulate the amount of water returning to the tank.
Do a search for Derso stand pipe. That will be a great addition to the overflow as it will quite down the water drain sounds.

J

What do you mean?

Hard to explain haha. I will take a pic and post it tonight.

Alrighty. But basically the same potential problems still exist, because any overflow can potentially clog and fail.

Also make sure your return piping won't siphon your tank back into your sump when power fails. If you want your return low in the tank, then drill holes in the piping just under the water line so that when the water level drops from back-siphoning, it sucks in water and breaks the siphon.

Do you have a pic of this?

you do mean "sucks in AIR and breaks the siphon" don't you?

Steve

lol, yeah I meant air breaks the siphon, thanks.

I don't have a picture unfortunately.

How are you running your water return plumbing? Is it going over the top of the tank and in, or is the tank drilled for this as well?