RowaPhos or PhosBan?
 

Just wondering if one goes farther and is more cost effective than the other.
I think they both probably do the same, essentially, but I have a hunch one goes farther than the other.
It's so hard to compare.
One is wet, the other is dry, and thus measures differently, by weight.
One is measured in grams, the other mls.
How the heck are you supposed to measure a solid substance in mls?.....
....and what is the equivalant of the dry gram product to the wet mls product?
:confused:
Just hoping a consensus will enlighten me more on this, and help me to reach a decision on which one I want to settle on.

Thanx much,

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issu...004/review.htm

Re: RowaPhos or PhosBan?
 

I've only used Rowaphos, so can't comment on Phosban, however I had this link bookmarked: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issu...004/review.htm
Please disregard if you're already familiar with the article... :lol:

~Tamara

Sheesh, I'm a slow typist :confused:
That'll teach me to perhaps refresh the page next time, before hitting the submit button...

~Tamara

Amazing what is out there.
I never thought to look.
That article pretty much confirms what I was thinking. That being that PhosBan is the better deal.
Thanx much.

So much for the poll.
Oh well. :redface:

Edit: However, I'd still be interested in hearing of people's choice between the two.

Thanx.

Go
 

I use Rowa only because I can get any Phosban without ordering it.. From what I hear King eds is going to stock it as well as JL soon and I will be switching over only because of the price.
________
buy easy vape

Voted neither because I don't use.

same here.. I kicked that habit years ago. :mrgreen:

if you have a lot of sps you might want to do some further reseach if you are just starting to use it.

I started using Rhowaphos about 2 months ago. My results have been excellent so far. It keeps my Phosphates at zero and I'm a heavy feeder. I've heard Phosban gives better bang for the buck, but I can't say as I've only used Rhowaphos. There are some reports of SPS losing colour after implementing, but this has not been the case with mine. When you first put it in the reactor make sure to run water outside your system through it to rid it of the brownish powdery sludge otherwise you will get that in your tank.

Mark, are you back in town? :biggrin:

Yep. And for a good while, actually. (See link).

http://www.canreef.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=19888

:biggrin:

It's inevitable that one question leads to others...

For those that do not use either RowaPhos or PhosBan....

Are you using another brand or product?
No need to use anything?
Do you control phosphates levels in other ways? ie: Water changes? RO?

Thanx much,

I use neither. I have seen some people posting that have had trouble with their SPS after using and didn't want to take a chance. I use RO/DI water and do 15 - 20% water changes every 2 weeks on all my tanks.

I don't know about cost effectiveness/which will go farther. For me, it cost what it costs and thats all there is to it. If it isn't a Hagen product Nanaimo doesn't have it :razz: I went with Rowaphos, mostly because it was the only one that was available to me at the time (I was in Vancouver), I wanted it and was at the store to get it. I bought it to run in a Phosban Reactor. I don't know if I used it improperly but I rinsed it well before putting it in the reactor and then ran about 5 gallons of water slowly through the reactor (too quickly and it just gets clogged at the top of it) and discarded that water. I then set the reactor to where the rowaphos is gently "bubbling" (for lack of a better word). And away it went. I have a phosphate test kit but my tank water never registers and my RODI water doesn't register as well. But something is making the algae grow.

Two days after introduction of the reactor I noticed that a lot of my SPS were sort of browning out. Mostly the pinks and blues, the yellows were the same as always. On the third day 3 frags were white skeletons and two more were starting to recede from the bottom up. I immediately turned the reactor off, assuming that some of the reactor particulate/sludge had gotten into the tank and was causing a problem (theres some really red junk that comes off that stuff at the beginning). I siphoned the bottom of the tank and sump and watched the receding frags over the next few days. Tissue recession stopped at the point I orignally caught it and it didn't go any further.

I don't know if this was the rowaphos or something else in the tank. Considering I didn't have any problems before starting the reactor and I haven't had any problems since turning it off, I attribute the coral losses and fading color to the rowaphos. Kind of disappointing as I was pretty excited about both the reactor and the rowaphos. I had used rowaphos previously in a filter sock but I don't know if I wasn't using enough or didn't have enough flow through the sock as it didn't do anything to hold my algae in check/decrease growth.

Currently I am running carbon in my reactor and it works like a hot damn! :mrgreen:

I haven't decided whether I will use the rowaphos again. If I do I will introduce it to the tank slowly. Right now I'm just trying to see if the color comes back (its been about 4-6 weeks). I'm not adverse to trying phosban the next time out. I dont' know if I just can't find any threads on problems people have had with it or its less popular.

JMO
Christy :)

Only having a 26 bow, I'm restricted to what I can fit on/in my tank. So I use the H.B.H. pads that you cut to size (Carb,Ammo,,Phos) and place a piece in my modded A/C300 as well as cut a piece to fit around the inside suction tube of my A/c 802 P/h attachment. Works great,easy to remove ,clean and all my readings are O. You can get =8/10 cuts from 1 pad. so price is good to.
dave.

remember the test kits we can afford can only measure inorganic phosphate, organic phosphate can be flooding our systems and we cannot measure it. so you can have a phosphate problem and never get a reading on your test kit.

as for the poll, I will pick rowaphos only because I just bought some LOL

I have use phosban but not in a reactor and I am not happy with it. I think a reactor is the only way to go with these.

Steve

I've been using Phosban for about two weeks now. I've had a pretty bad hair algae problem for a few weeks now and since I've been using the phosban, the hair algae has stopped growing, has started turning brown and is dying off in a lot of places. I admit, it's a slow process but it is working. I didn't go with Rowaphos because of the whole sps bleaching thing.

Thanx to all who responded. :smile:

Are these things still recomended or are pellets way better?

Pm men pls :mrgreen:

I use rowaphos, its excellent, cost more than most GFO however it lasts longer

I stopped when I started using Biopellets and I have never had any detectable amounts.

I put down neither because I use the bulk stuff.

I used rowaphos exclusively for a full year but recently switched to BRS HC GFO three months ago because of all of the popularity and hype surrounding it. Its hard to quantify the difference but the BRS product does lower the phophate in my system more than the rowaphos would and lasts longer. I only have an Elos kit for testing but with rowaphos I would always get a slight blue tint to the vial. With BRS it is clear and stays clear for two months. Both have been instrumental in my battle with bryopsis and both have helped. But I've noticed a greater difference in its decline since I swtiched to BRS. Also, the chaeto I try to grow in my refugium have virtually stopped growing.

On my 270gal system I used to use 1 cup of rowaphos and change it monthly, presently I'm using one cup of BRS and changing it every two months.