Top Off DIY
 

I know there have been lots of topoff ideas using a premixed bucket yadda yadda.

what I was thinking of doing (as per the pic) was to use a solenoid to control the RO/DI Directly to fill the sump back up as per a float switch. Before the items get brought up, Temp of water going in: Yes it will not be @ tank temp, however, since it is such a small amount at any given time, the heaters (and other heat donating equipment) will compensate for that. Salt? Not needed, since this is just a top off, not a sol'n for water changes. Let me know what you think or let me know if I'm off my rocker.
G
http://www.syberdyne.ca/canreef/idea.jpg

No, I don't think your off your rocker. I been talkin' to my LFS about the very same thing. Gonna do it when I move, hopefully in one year.

BTW, what does the word "sol'n" mean?

Cheers,

solution, sorry :mrgreen: Too many years in the engineering books, can't lose the shorthand.

No prob. I thought that's what it meant. Just wanted to be sure.

Anyhoo, back to the top-off. I'm told that system can be split off, too, to feed multiple tanks. I could use that! :smile:

Cheers,

But if your an engineer I suppose you already figured that. Sorry, didn't mean to insult you there. :redface:

Cheers,

Different kind :cool: Computer Engineer, If you want your computer to control it, No problem. I'm just not sure if anyone has done this before, best to check and see before another copper incident involving DIY radiators :eek:

I get from talkin' to my LFS that not only has it been done but I think it is fairly common place. Although, maybe not that common or the direct sump feed idea would have been talked about more on this board.
Anyway, much of how it would exactly work is unclear to me, (I'm no engineer of any kind and I've never dealt with RO systems before), but I'm told it is possible. One other thing that I want to do with mine is set up an in line additive drip as well. I'm told that will also be possible.

Cheers,

I like the system, but float switches do fail.

I would use your design as a back-up system to a mechanical float valve and RO pressure sensing shut-off, or the other way around.

I agree with littlesilvermax. I'd put the output of the R/O through a mechanical float valve and have the solenoid cut power if the water gets too high. That's what I do. Works like a charm.

Make that three. That was my LFS's suggestion, exactly.

Cheers,

Actually considering that Ro water has a spike in its TDS when it initially turns on, you might want to get a storage tank, so that the system does not cycle too often.

The other thing to do is have a high and low electrical float switch so the water turns on for a while and then off for a while instead of switching all day long. Then use a mechanical valve as a back-up that is placed just a little higher then the high switch.

How about?
 

How about the PH level??

Re: How about?
 

The ph level should not be affected very much by the RO water as long as you have very good aeration.

I have a small (5g) container with a small powerhead in it that I use to aerate my RO water. I fill that container 24/7 with a float valve connected to my RO. That container tops-off my sump with another float valve.

You could just get teh solenoid and float vale kit that accomplishes the same thing.

http://www.jlaquatics.com/phpstore/s..._ID=ro-kpfvkit

I have one on my RO unit and it works great. Keeps sump at constant level all the time.

I wouldn't advise that set up. to easy for it to fail and dump fresh water to the tank. what you could do is add a float valve at the end that is in the sump, and right befor that one of them pressure mechanical RO shut off's to give you double safty. this way if your selinoid sticks the float valve is still able to shut off the water through the mechanical shut off. Sorry but after working with electric selinoids for 20 years I am still leary of them on there own.

Steve

I agree, have a back-up.