Help with new 190 gal build
 

I am having a new custom tank built (Peninsula style) with the dimensions 58" L, 34" W and 22" deep.
I'd like an internal overflow on the one 34" end that sits against the wall and wonder if anyone has any advice on that please? In particular, should I incorporate 2 drains or 2 returns, or is one of each enough?
It will be a primarily SPS dominated tank that is well stocked both with fish and corals. I am not sure which powerheads I will use, but I do like the idea of one on each side of the overflow.
Also looking for advice on a DIY sump. The DT and sump are one above the other upstairs separating our dining room from the living room so as quiet a setup as possible with excellent flow, of course, is what I'm aiming for.
Thanks very much in advance!

For the drain, go with a minimum of two drains (herbie) and one return. 3 total would do just fine. I would suggest 2 x 1.5" drains and 1 x 1" return hole. You could go fancy with 2 returns as well (4 total holes).

It all really depends on the size, location and style of your overflow. Have any design pictures of the tank?

Look into a beananmal they are supper quiet.It uses 3 drains

I don't have any drawings yet, and admittedly I wouldn't know how to add them to the post. I can try and learn, though:))
What if I did go with 2 drains and 2 returns, would a Fluval Sea SP4 pump be sufficient in your opinion? I've heard they are decently priced and quiet.
Also, how long and thick should the overflow be? I'd like to place a power head on each side. (Not sure how to incorporate something like a gyro or MP40 there).

With your dimensions, you are looking for info on a 190g tank.
You're going to want somewhere between 630 and 1200gph return flow - 3.3x to 6.1x sump turnover for your skimmer.
While a Bean overflow is best, a Herbie will suit just fine.
Look online and read about both ... Bean Animal Overflow ... Herbie Overflow.

Quiet return pump ... I've always been happy with an in-sump Eheim 1262, and it lasts forever. Only gives about 650-700gph after head loss with an under-tank sump, but runs like a champ and won't ever let you down as long as you keep it clean. And keep in mind ... tank return flow is only important where skimming is involved - hence the numbers above.
What's important for SPS is in-tank flow. Power heads/propeller pumps are where you will spend your money.

As for a DIY sump, look online and search not only for info, but also images

Good luck, and start a build thread with lots of pictures!!

So I did do some reading on the herbie vs bean animal and I really would prefer to use the bean animal method, but is it possible at all to incorporate it completely inside the tank with the drains going down right into the sump? That way there's no worries about leakage from the external plumbing onto the floor....
I've been trying to figure out if its feasible but haven't come across that info yet.

BTW, gregzz4. Just checked out your rebuild posts. Awesome!! Love your tidy dosing system and electrical setup! Where did you find those large narrow plastic bottles?

Yes, you would just have to drill the bottom of the tank and make a full height internal overflow. You would also have to have pretty high drain pipes to avoid a noisey cascade effect into the overflow. Not ideal for beananimal, but doable.

If you're going for an internal overflow, I would just go for a herbie IMO.

I really like the bean animal idea so I've decided to go with it, even though it means having some lines outside the tank. The quietness and safety of it over rules my worries about the pvc joints leaking.
I guess I can always have the sump offset underneath as extra security.

I run three drains two returns. Three baffles in the sump and a gate valve on the main drain and just a ball valve on the second and none on the emergency.

Thanks!
Bought the containers from Reef Supplies 4 Liter Space Saver Container with Cap

I am definitely going with the external bean animal, thanks. And the tank may even be as big as 210 gal - working out the details as we speak but getting closer every day!
So the inside overflow part will be approx 22" long (probably with a split return) with 5-6" on both either side for power heads. I currently have 2 Jebao's running on my 105g DT and am overall pretty happy with them. They're quieter than my MP40 was, at least, but what I'd like to eliminate is the introduction of the electrical currents inside the DT if possible.
My concern is also having enough flow for the SPS as they are the corals I will have the most of. (Currently the same:)
Suggestions?:)

The new Peninsula DT is ordered!! Dimensions are 56" L x 34" W x 25.5" H. Low iron glass on the 3 viewing sides.
The stand is metal and will be 37" H with a 9" segment on the wall end that leaves room for the bean animal overflow to go down thru to (and over) the sump. (Hope that's enough room for me to work with the drains...)
The overflow will be a coast to coast with the 3 drains outside and 2 returns on the outermost edges. For flow I'm going with a Fluval SP4 return pump and a Maxspect Gyre fx250 or 280 situated on the middle of the overflow.
The 75 gal sump design is still being tweaked, but quiet everything is the primary concern without compromising flow.
Lighting will be ATI either 2 -4x bulb or 1 -8x bulb with up to 6 Kessil 160's in the middle or outsides respectively.
Two 300 watt heaters, a 25W UV sterilizer, JNS skimmer, GFO and CO2 scrubber since I believe our wood stove that we use all the time now with the cold weather contributes to my declining pH and alkalinity. And a 4 head dosing pump.
Am I forgetting anything?
The switch over will be interesting. Needs to be done in a matter of hours and the new tank and stand are going exactly where the old 105 g plus sump are, so I'm all ears if anyone has any advice. I plan on getting some huge rubbermaids and placing in a heater plus powerhead for flow. Do I need to be concerned about Oxygen levels for the fish/corals? The transfer may take at least 24 hours and I have a lot of SPS in particular. I wasn't planning on using an air stone but should I?
And probably all new sand. Rinsed with ro/di but not necessarily all added at the same time so as not to create too much murkiness. (However, I do have a Vortech diatom remover I could use to keep particulates lower if need be...)
I will be moving out a lot of the coral beforehand to my 80 gal frag tank downstairs just in case.:wink:

In over 25 years of aquarium keeping I have had this happen exactly once and it was from a frayed wire on a used piece of equipment that I had not checked first. YMMV but this is not a major risk, and using GFCI circuits, drip loops and avoiding the cable monster should be all the electrical risk mitigation you need.

Do you ever plan to control your pumps/skimmer/total system? If so, then start with the purchasing that equipment, as trading up with cost from 2 to 3 times in the end. Having said that, I agree that the eheim 1292 is the best base choice. Not the most silent, but reliable and does not have the close tolerances some of the newer, higher performance (more expensive) ones do. Another good choice in the same cost range Sicce Syncra Silent 5, or stepping up to controllable pumps in the same cost range in Canada, a Reef Octopus VarioS-6 or Waveline DC6000

A powerhead with a foam intake guard will do a lot better at oxygenation (flow) than any air pump and stone.

Charles

I have a peninsula tank a little larger than yours...most of the details on my build on are my thread here...feel free to ask any questions.

Thank you, Charles. I guess if I keep the heater around 79 deg and a powerhead in the tupperware the critters should all be ok for the day? I definitely would like to get set up for automatic controllers, but unfortunately had already ordered the Fluval SP4 before reading the posts.
I have a lot more studying to do to learn about the APEX system and whatever others are currently out there but I figure for now if I have the ATI it should come with a controller, and I already have 2 controllers for the Kessils...Honestly not sure really where to start with the whole "control" idea, but if you could point me in the right direction, I can start researching more...
Lor:biggrin:

And Mark, WOW!! I just read thru your tank build and it was VERY helpful! (And gorgeous:)) Thank you so much for sharing!!
I do have a few questions:
I noticed you had your returns come up and over the overflow but I was planning on having the overflow as a coast to coast and the returns situated on the outside edges. And a Maxspect Gyre maybe 280 on the inside.
I was hoping that would be enough total flow for the whole tank?
And concerning your SPS loss, did you ever figure it out? I had a similar issue that was due primarily to low Alk and now things are much better.

Well it turns out I'm not getting the Fluval SP4 after all.
The purchase didn't go thru. Maybe that's more than a coincidence, lol:))
Anyhow, back searching for a controllable pump now. In particular the Reef octopus vario 6, but not 100% yet. None available I could find currently...
I do like the idea of controllable, yet quiet. Thx for the tips😊

Would a Waveline DC 6000 be large enough, though? I was thinking the 10000 model.