POS Gyre - ready to put it in the garburator
 

So I have this gen 1 Gyre XF150. The cord cracked (common gen 1 issue). Waited WEEKS for an email reply to get a new motor block. Nothing. This is back in early November.
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k43/Myka82/Gyre.jpg

My LFS gets a motor block in by accident (they were supposed to send a 130 motor block for someone else, but sent a 150), so they took the serial number off mine, and that worked out. However, I get the new one and where the cord goes into the motor block the cord casing isn't inserted, so the wires inside are showing. :doh:

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12...dc6630f90f.jpg

I'm kinda PO'd at this point so and I siliconed it last night.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12...4e4398c4e1.jpg

I installed it this morning into the tank. I plug it in, red light, no action. Are you kidding me??? So I take it all apart, and put it back together following the directions just in case I missed something. I didn't. Put it back in tank. It starts up. Great! 10 seconds later, red light, no action. :frusty: *deep breaths*

I took it apart and put it back together 3 times. If I stick a skewer in there (with it off) and move the blades, then turn it back on, I can get it running again, but it stops just the same. It will run for about 10 seconds, then it catches a few times, then jams up, and stops spinning. I took it off pulse, and still can't keep it going.

I'm about to lose my mind over this. Any ideas??? Is it from water get in to the bare wires where I siliconed it (it's not a perfect seal)???

Maybe a different brand?
 

http://s11.postimg.org/6a97wv4pv/jebao_gyre.jpg

Sorry, could help it.....

This is what I get for trying new crap...shoulda stuck with the Tunzes. :p

Trade for Apex??

Ok. I actually want one of those, but there's been a lot of trouble with them this year (power outs causing grief, etc), so maybe that's not the best idea. On second thought, you keep it.

crap i have this same thing starting to happen noticed it the other day when i was cleaning it

As far as I know they're replacing all gen 1 Gyres with this problem, and all they need is the serial number. I don't think they even need to still be on warranty to be covered since it was such a widespread issue with the gen 1's. I could be mistaken, but that's how it seemed.

O ok awesome who did you contact ? The company itself

Go through the LFS you bought it from.

I bought 2 when they first came out. One arrived defective and it was a month and a half of fighting before I got a replacement. Only after going on Reefcentral and bashing the company. I bought here in Canada but had to deal with a place in L.A. for warranty.

I've had Tunze and Vortech and IME the Gyres work the best. But im using 2 together. I put them in a couple of clients tanks and they've been working great as well. Build quality seems a little cheaper than Tunze and Vortech though, I still would'nt go back to them. Especially the Tunze, takes up to much room in tank and ugly looking

Sooooo...I walk by the tank, and I figure oh what the heck, and flip the power switch. It turned on!!!! :eek: I ran it for a few minutes, and I'm all hmm... I switch it to pulse flow, and it jams up right away. Took me another 5 mins to get it running on steady flow again. It turns out when it jams up it starts easier when I use the switch (it's on a DJ power bar) rather than unplugging it from the adapter. So now it's running still for maybe 5 mins. *fingers crossed* Maybe I'll try pulse mode tomorrow...

You like the look of Gyres? I think they're uglier than the rest of them. :lol: This freaking thing takes up half the back wall of the tank! :eek:

Sounds like you need a bigger tank:lol:

Not at all. I have enough fun cleaning everyone elses' big tanks.

I have the same issue, with the cord, the gyre is about a year old, contacted support and they told me "can send you to j&l for a new motor block", so pretty much have to spend 50$ on it....


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[quote=Myka;973748]Sooooo...I walk by the tank, and I figure oh what the heck, and flip the power switch. It turned on!!!! :eek: I ran it for a few minutes, and I'm all hmm... I switch it to pulse flow, and it jams up right away. Took me another 5 mins to get it running on steady flow again. It turns out when it jams up it starts easier when I use the switch (it's on a DJ power bar) rather than unplugging it from the adapter. So now it's running still for maybe 5 mins. *fingers crossed* Maybe I'll try pulse mode tomorrow...





had a lots of issue with this pump, as soon a little snail gets in they jam, one of the issue had to deal with was the bushing piece, a like3-4 $ piece , they strips really easy and make the pump not working properly


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Yow, those photos don't inspire much confidence in the build quality. So much for UL or CSA standards. I mean really! You don't even require an electrical engineer on the design team to know that you need a certain specification of cable when building something that will be submerged in salt water and/or subject to intense lighting! And a new motor block with the wiring already damaged? I have a decade old AquaClear powerhead pushing water to my skimmer running on 120VAC & the cord going into the motor block is still supple & uncompromised! Not sure why you would choose to silicone the wire rather than get that motor replaced as well?

Ok, with my Captain Obvious impersonation out of the way, let's see if I can offer some useful input to this dilemma. I understand these are low voltage DC motors, so hopefully not that much danger of electrocution, sparks or fire! I suspect that the wiring inside the motor housing where you can't see is epoxied to isolate the electrons from the surrounding elements, so while the silicone may provide some mechanical strain relief, it may not actually be required for water proofing. But that's a wild guess & you can't know until you take it apart further, probably destructively. Either way, I wouldn't be comfortable running an electric motor in salt water with that kind of sub par cable.

With respect to the intermittent operation (possibly solved now by playing with DJ power bar switch?), since there is a controller involved with feedback wiring from the motor, any number of components could be at fault. I won't mention software since I was dead wrong on that with your last little electrical episode! However, it still could be something in the controller, but judging by the cable issue & the propensity for these gadgets to get clogged, it probably is with the motor/propeller/cages/bushings......
One other thing you could try is instead of powering it from the DJ power bar with switch, try plugging the power supply directly into an outlet. That will at the very least rule out the power bar or switch.

Good luck with this one too, but if it was me, that thing would be in the trash! Regardless of whether it moves water more to one's preference than say a Tunze or VorTech, you gotta know when to say uncle on a product. (Title of the thread! do it..)

I know, eh?! I siliconed it because I was tired of waiting for customer service. I just wanted to try it out in my tank. I can pull the silicone off pretty easily.

I don't think it will electrocute anything, or I would have already got zapped. :D I got zapped pretty good by a clients' tank last week, and I'm pretty sure it's clear enough in my mind to remember how it feels. :lol: It's unplugged right now though, and I'm waiting for customer service again.

The customer service is what's killing me. I waited to see what everyone was saying about the Gyre, and everyone seemed pretty happy over the last year or so. But me? Yeah, if I didn't have bad luck, I'd have no luck at all.

So today, I screwed around trying to get it running again, and no go. I got it running for 5 mins once, but that was it. So I figured oh what the heck, and put the original motor back on it, and it works fine. It's running in there now. Pretty sweet new motor block...

After everything I've read in this thread about Gyre I'm glad I only thought about buying one. I'll stick to the Vortech's I like the cord on the outside, out of the water.

I've found that the Canadian distributor for Maxspect are very quick in shipping out the replacement parts. Usually got mine within a couple days of registering probpem. Maybe some lfs are dealing with coral vue directly and therefore logistics to get parts are a bit more of an effort due to shipping and cross border paperwork?

That is correct. Maxspect CANADA handles Canadian Warranty only. Most authorized Canadian Maxspect Dealers, such as ourselves, have these parts in stock and instructions from Maxspect Canada to ensure the shortest possible delay time for customers.

+1 on the Canadian side of Maxspect.
They've even shipped me free of charge the new vibration mounts when feed back was given that G1 were loud. Definetly a brand that's very customer service oriented at least in the Canadian side of the border.

What good is any kind of customer service when the product is of such sketchy quality in the first place? All the new parts in the world are no good if they don't fix the issue at the manufacturing level.

They did fix the issue at the manufacturing level. The cracking wire issue was only a problem with the first run of units produced. New motors were provided to the distributer and dealers for quick replacement purposes and new anti-vibration mounts were sent to end users, of that first batch, that wanted them. The second manufacturing run. of GYRE 150s, were already being shipped with the upgrades and the newly released XF130s included the upgrades from the start.

Well that's what I heard too! Which is one of the reasons why I wanted to try the Gyre out. I sent a ticket to Coralvue on Saturday just in case they can help. So far, no reply from Canadian.

Myka, just contact me if you want help. The Canadian distributer had been in China and may not have received your email at the time you sent it. I will be happy to help out. Have your receipt and serial # handy, so I can get this fixed for you tomorrow.

So , I don't have the receipt anymore, how should I deal with this ?

About coral vue, I already try to contact them, but they can't do nothing about it,when I contacted them they just send me the Canadian contact info


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That's strange was your unit a Canadian warranty or USA? If you want I can PM you the direct Canadian number for contact.

Mine is Canadian warranty, but without receipt I do not think they can do much about it,
Been waiting a few weeks to ear back from them


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This could be a more sensitive issue and/or I certainly don't want to step on any toes. Contact me directly to discuss.

Ok , thank you for you help really appreciate


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Canada. Please do! :)

I just wanted to say, as someone who works for a company that gets some of our products made overseas. We've had more then one product where we've designed a item, picked the materials, had a prototype made up, and approved for production.

Then when the product shows up parts/materials have been "subbed" with out our knowledge or approval.

Some times it makes a difference and sometime it doesn't.

At this point all your can do as a company is get a replacements out ASAP.

I keep coming back to this thread hoping for a video of a gyre in garburator

Let it blend

:lol: For now I just have the old motor block with the cracked outer cord casing running it (it's not leaking any charge yet). I couldn't hold off any longer, I really needed more flow for my sticks! I have it running pulse at 50%. It's such a nice flow pattern. :)

I've had a cracked cord on one of mine for almost 9mths and no issues yet lol

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So if you two stop posting suddenly, we can assume "yet" is over?? lol

Why didn't you get it replaced on warranty? Everyone says the customer service is really good. :)

Nah, it's low voltage. Just a tickle...compared to the freaking electrical attack I received last week from one of those Aquavista tanks... :eek:

You folks have more faith in your safety running equipment in that condition than I. Yes, low voltage mitigates the risk of shock to you or your livestock, but there's also the risk of overheating, sparks or fire. Again, lower risk with lower voltage, but personally I wouldn't be tempting Mr. Murphy in order to get a certain flow pattern or let something like this slide for months. Capillary action is another $10 word I'll throw out there. With a cracked cord like that, there is the potential for moisture to creep along inside the cable, even working against gravity. I guess in this case it could make it's way back to the controller which may not be a big deal either. But if the outer insulation is poor quality, it's possible the inner wire insulation isn't much better, worse more likely. Short between the power wires inside the cable due to cracked insulation will still make a pretty good heater at 24 volts DC.

Anyhow, your tanks, your stuff. Hope we don't see you on this year's edition of the Darwin awards.