Attaching RODI to PEX plumbing
 

I was looking to set up my RODI to the cold water line in the utility room, but discovered last night that the plumbing is completely done in ... not pvc, not copper, and not threaded vinyl... after some quick research I think it might be PEX. (can attach a picture tonight).

Has anyone any experience with attaching RODI to PEX plumbing? I assume I can't use the needle clamp thing that I wanted to.... Will I have to do it in line? Do I need special fittings?

:help:

Do you think it would work to cut the line (if I can find somewhere to cut it), put in two PEX-PVC sharkbite push to connect fittings, and run a small PVC line between them and then clamp the RODI to the PVC?

Or something like this (eliminate the PVC entirely...)

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y22...83-300x229.jpg

Sharkbite connection should work, you just need to find an adapter to step down the size to the small diameter RODI tubing. I have copper, not PEX, but the photo below should give an idea of what's possible. I found a push type step down fitting at Can Tire. I'd say most stores dealing in plumbing fittings should have something similar.

You definitely want to include a shut off valve so that the RODI isn't under constant pressure.

https://tsl4pa.blu.livefilestore.com...ion.JPG?psid=1

EDIT: Was responding while you posted the last photo of the metal fitting, looks like that should work just great.

What I've done before is cut the Pex, install a Pex suitable tee, reconnect it. On the end of the tee use this fitting (buy a good quality one, not a cheap one):

http://guideimg.alibaba.com/images/s...pe_2238894.jpg



Or, if you can find it, use this one:
http://www.sanitarytek.com/upload/an...ve-V22-432.jpg

There is no point introducing pvc into the supply line.

I would:
Tee off from your main line with PEX crimp fittings
Run a branch over to the RO unit.
Add a ball valve where convenient to operate.
Then step it down to a 1/4" quick connect to go to the RO unit.

This ensures that the main lines in the house are using pex crimp rings. The quick connect is after a valve so that if any issues arise you can ensure that its off.

Personally I don't trust the shark-bit fittings or any other quick connects.
The slightest damage to the exterior of the pipe before installation or the o-rings during and you have potential for failure.

PEX crimp tool is pretty expensive for the one small job that I would be using it for. =/

Probably a lot cheaper than your insurance deductible for a flooded house.
Most hardware stores rent them for $10-$15 for 4hrs.

If you have a sink nearby you could use screw on adapter on a water supply line. I rely like this one :biggrin:
http://cdn.bulkreefsupply.com/media/...-grouped-a.jpg

I currently have it attached under a sink, but I want to keep it out of the bathroom (which is where the sink is).

Hardware stores rent them for around $10. Some smaller ones like home hardware often even rent them for free provided you pay the deposit.

If you don't wanna rent crimping tool use shark bite fitting they are Csa approved. Use a shark bite tee to cut into line outta that a shark bite valve 1/2 x3/8 then use a John guess 3/8x1/4 coupling this is just one Wayne doing it. the valve above in pic would be perfect but in all my years plumbing never seen that fitting for sale good luck.

By the way if you use a compression fitting anywhere with the plastic John guess pipe you need a metal sleave inside the pipe or it will let go at some point and flood your house. It's a little 3/4 inch long brass looking piece that slides inside pipe so when you tighten fitting it does not just crush the pipe.

So this is what I am dealing with in the utility room. Does it bother anyone else that the thing is crooked.... :wink:

Anyways, if I can rent some pex crimpers and such for a reasonable amout, I have no issues with using those over the sharkbites.

I was hoping to put the rodi on the vertical line before the make-shift manifold they have in there, or the horizontal line below it.

I would throw in a pex x pex - comp T with a valve, and then run an extra long rodi line across to where I want to set up my water containers. I want to deal as little with the pex as possible.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y22...z/IMG_8815.jpg

In the mean time, I have my rodi plumbed in under my bathroom sink.

I would install a small bracket to help support that water meter. There is a lot of tension on that 90 prior to the meter.

Oh my, that mess can't have been done by a plumber?!?! What ^ Gary said. I'm kind of glad my old place is still full of copper.

Wow :surprise:

I don't know who did it. House is 10 years old, just bought it, and the home inspector never said anything about it. I wasn't happy about it when I saw it. The more white piece of PEX on the far left is pushing it down. I tried lifting it a bit to see how much slack there was, and there wasn't a whole lot. There would be a whole lot of messing around with cutting the pex and redoing it and putting proper brackets on it.

If I can't do much myself I may have to call in a plumber =[

That mess would drive me crazy. I'm having a hard time even looking at it. Your plan to tee off where you indicated will work just fine, but I would redo the whole thing, lol. Remember to turn off the water supply, open the highest and lowest faucets in the house and a 5 gal pail ready for when you cut the pex.

It's pretty messy down there. I want to get a nice manifold with valves in there too. I also need to figure out where the right line goes. I noticed in the ceiling that is Ts off in 3 directions. No clue where the other two go.

All I wanted was to hook up my RODI to a copper cold line and be done with it. Le sigh.

It looks like that because few years back most cities hired a bunch of half ass plumbers to install meters they were paid per meter so they did them as fast and crappy as possible you can see where the pipe went straight together prior to meter.

Since my roommate has no clue whats going on, I have to draw pictures/make instructions for the plumber who will be coming while I am at work.

This is the plan.... Let me know if I'm crazy.

Option 1
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y224/tabkatz/A.png

Option 2
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y224/tabkatz/B.png

If you are going to have a plumber install a T, I would get him to fix that mess.
I go along with everyone else that said they could not stand looking at the mess. Never mind KNOWING its there.
You probably have to pay 4 hr min call out anyway.

option 2 (not being a plumber)

If your hiring a plumber I would get it cut in between the valve and (prv) the thing with the gauge, it would bypass the meter free water plus it would bypass the (prv) pressure reducing valve, city pressure you will get a little better production of water. I did this it works great. But both your diagrams look alright second pic would be easier.

I am having them fix the whole thing.

We are having an old neighbour's company come in to take a look. Not sure they will be able to go in before the water gauge.. But I would feel bad getting the free water. We live just outside the city so there is only a certain amount of water the residents are permitted to use.

I have no clue what the prv is. I thought it was just a thingy that reads the pressure. not reduce it.

Most of the water u use will be showers, washing machine and dishwasher.
Comparing, your RODI to this, its very little. So just a little free water. Plus, as said, the pressure will be higher for your filters, increasing efficiency.

Yeah I do it mainly for higher pressure my landlord pays my water bill I can care less about free water.

Takes a special kind of special to admit on a public forum that you are stealing water from the city.

Perhaps we should have a thread Illegal things you do to save a few bucks??

I'm sure the police are on there way, I'm special.

I am on the way.. does that count?

I don't think a reputable plumber is going to fix it so you get free water, so that part of the discussion is moot. In my house, the PRV is plumbed in downstream of the water meter, quite a ways actually. Not sure if this is code, but it was done that way before I bought the house. This allows me to have full city pressure for my outdoor taps which is good for my irrigation set up, hand watering the garden & washing stuff. My PRV is adjustable & I've taken the liberty of tweaking the pressure somewhat higher downstream of it as well. A bit of a risk, but the old copper is holding up fine & I get 100 psi at my RO system, a bit more on good days. All the water is still metered. You could request that the plumber doing the work also move your PRV downstream of the water meter, provided it meets your local code requirements.

I am not concerned about the pressure, it seems to be much higher than it was at the old house.

Hopefully it will be all fixed after Thursday and I can get my stuff out of my bathroom.

The plumber is in!! I am at work so the roomie is supervising *yikes* but hopefully I will come home to beautiful awesomeness.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y22...ds/image_1.jpg

Much better. The rodi line was extended with pex T-Ed off further up and it ends in a nice valve.

:cheer2::cheer2:

So much better!