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Coral Hoarder 02-19-2015 03:09 AM

acid bath and the after math
 
okay so i just did an acid bath 30%acid 70% water and i took my rock out put it in buckets with water i tested ph and ph is 8.4 or more is it now safe to put in my tank and start cycle ? or is there some thing more i need to do

jason604 02-19-2015 03:17 AM

what i did was put in baking soda after my acid bath to neutralize it then i hose them down and soaked in RO water for 1 day with a hang on back filter with carbon. I then took it out and sundried the rocks for another 1-2 days then back in ro water it went then back out in sun then into a bin with saltwater and a pump and a lid for 3 months. Hope that helps scott.

Scythanith 02-19-2015 04:01 PM

Definitely requires a nice long RO soak and you may as well check for leaching phosphates while you're at it.

Masonjames 02-19-2015 06:55 PM

No soaking required. Just rinse really well and it's tank ready.

If you want to soak however, there is nothing wrong with doing so.

Ryancw 02-19-2015 08:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Masonjames (Post 936645)
No soaking required. Just rinse really well and it's tank ready.

If you want to soak however, there is nothing wrong with doing so.


lol, WUT?:neutral:

Masonjames 02-19-2015 09:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ryancw (Post 936654)
lol, WUT?:neutral:


Why do you need to soak after the acid bath? What's the purpose?

Rinse it well and it is ready for the tank.

canadianbudz604 03-07-2015 03:35 AM

Acid bath
 
I did the 70% acid 30% water and it did not clean the rock the way I thought it even turned some of them dark dark brown?!? What did I do wrong

gregzz4 03-07-2015 03:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by canadianbudz604 (Post 939581)
I did the 70% acid 30% water and it did not clean the rock the way I thought it even turned some of them dark dark brown?!? What did I do wrong

What acid did you use ?
And you say you used 70 acid to 30 water ?
Hydrochloric acid dissolves inorganic stuff, so it strips all the minerals

Coral Hoarder 03-07-2015 04:12 AM

I found 3 and 7 acid to water to be way to strong 2 8 or 1 9 works just as well and doesn't eat all the rock I did 1 and 9 my second attempt and it worked better more rock less organics

Bottles I used said hydrochloric muriatic

WarDog 03-07-2015 06:11 AM

I got my rock from Eli, not sure if OP is using live rock or dry rock... but here's what I did.

Removed as much dry dead matter as I could reach with tweezers.
Bathe in 1 part bleach to 10 parts tap water for 24 hrs with a powerhead.
Bathe in 1 part Muriatic acid (pool section at Cdn Tire) to 10 parts tap water for 4 hours, or until chemical reaction (bubbles) stops.
Sprinkled lots of Arm & Hammer baking soda (to neutralize acid), I let that sit for 1 hour. Stirred a few times.
Hosed down rocks and left them out to dry, few hours.
They all came out sparkling white with just minor spots of brown.
They did sit dry, in a box, inside for about 3 months before I was ready to aquascape.
Began cycle, tested PO4 at 0.03 for a month.
After a month PO4 dropped to 0.
Don't want to jinx myself, but I think there won't be any problem with leeching PO4 in the future. If there is I am ready for it.
I credit my success (so far) with the bleach/acid baths and the use of the dry rock. I'm not sure how much long term PO4 values would be if it were previously live rock.

canadianbudz604 03-07-2015 07:34 AM

Oops
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by gregzz4 (Post 939586)
What acid did you use ?
And you say you used 70 acid to 30 water ?
Hydrochloric acid dissolves inorganic stuff, so it strips all the minerals

Muriatic acid from Rona. And sorry 70% water to 30% acid. Not sure what I did but it didn't work well

Coral Hoarder 03-07-2015 02:30 PM

How long did you do it for?

And I had live rock the first time Nd dry rock Tonga branch and shelf the second

FishyFishy! 03-07-2015 03:26 PM

Apparently the stuff from Rona is very diluted. You need to buy the pure stuff from a pool/spa store. Mine worked absolute wonders. That was The best decision I have made in regards to setting up a new system.

Scythanith 03-07-2015 03:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Masonjames (Post 936658)
Why do you need to soak after the acid bath? What's the purpose?

Rinse it well and it is ready for the tank.

All the acid bath does is cook off the outer layer. There is much more to old dry LR than the outer layer. If it were my tank and all my money going into it I'd want to make sure I had clean, non phosphate leaching rock. The only way to do that would be to put it into water and test it frequently. Once it tests clear (may be as soon as a week or two) then get it into saltwater. Put it straight in and you may find yourself battling algae issues. Then again you may not, most dry live rock is a roll of the dice.

Just my 2 cents.

Masonjames 03-07-2015 04:21 PM

What condition was the rock in prior to the acid bath?
If there were any orgaincs that were present on the rock the acid will have no real effect on those orgaincs. Even at 100% the acid just isn't going to cut it with organics. This is why bleach is recommended prior to the acid treatment. The bleach is done to prepare the rock for the acid. So what you may be seeing is orgianc material that is still present.
Now if the rock was free of organics, you may just be seeing mineral deposits.

The process is so very simple. And does not need to be made more complicated.
Soak the rock in bleach for 24 hrs. Does not even require diluting. Rinse well when done.
Let rock completely dry.
Treat with acid. Strength of acid will be based on the density of the rock in question. This is up to the user to determine by trail and error. Soak it, bathe it, dump it directly on straight from the bottle. It don't matter. Figure out what works best for the rock in question. Rinse well and it is ready for the tank.
There is no need to neutralize the acid, there is no need for hours of soaking in the acid. Calcium carbonate is an acidic nuetralizer. The rock starts to neutralize the acid as soon as it comes in contact. The reaction happens rather quickly and the acid will be neutralized rather quickly.
Calcium carbonate is used in many industries as a acidic neutralizer. The chemical equation is easily found online.
There is no possiblity of bleach and or acid contaminating the system if the rock is allowed to completely dry after using the bleach, and a good rinse after the acid.
The only real investment in time to do the proccess is soaking the rock in bleach for 24 hrs, and letting the rock completely dry out post bleach. Everything else even the acid treatment should take minutes not hours.

Aquattro 03-07-2015 04:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Masonjames (Post 939656)

There is no need to neutralize the acid,

I would only disagree with this part. I soaked rock in acid many years ago, and after 12 hours, removed all my clean rock. I then added a large box of baking soda and ended up with something resembling my kid's volcano science project :)
For the cost of baking soda vs the impact to dumping acid into the sewer system, I'd do this as a required "just in case" step.

Masonjames 03-07-2015 04:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scythanith (Post 939647)
All the acid bath does is cook off the outer layer. There is much more to old dry LR than the outer layer. If it were my tank and all my money going into it I'd want to make sure I had clean, non phosphate leaching rock. The only way to do that would be to put it into water and test it frequently. Once it tests clear (may be as soon as a week or two) then get it into saltwater. Put it straight in and you may find yourself battling algae issues. Then again you may not, most dry live rock is a roll of the dice.

Just my 2 cents.

Take a look at the crystal lattice structure of calcite. You can see where the calcium group sticks out from the surface. Po4 will attach to c++ at this point. It is bound at the surface.

Masonjames 03-07-2015 05:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aquattro (Post 939659)
I would only disagree with this part. I soaked rock in acid many years ago, and after 12 hours, removed all my clean rock. I then added a large box of baking soda and ended up with something resembling my kid's volcano science project :)
For the cost of baking soda vs the impact to dumping acid into the sewer system, I'd do this as a required "just in case" step.

True enough and good point. May be good form to follow up with. Personally I have never witnessed any real further reaction beyond a relatively short period of time with or without the addition of a nuetrilizing agent, however if your dumping in a place where leaching into water systems is a possibility then I would agree that users should be taking further steps to ensure the acid has in fact been completely nuetralized. However dumping in such a location should also be avoided.


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