The problem with having your controller control everything
 

is that your controller controls everything.
My Apex base unit decided to die today. I think it shorted from a small splash of water.
Everything stopped. I had to pull out some old power bars and my previous Jebao controllers so my pumps would work. Everything back working again but I'm running blind.
I was going to automate even more things on my new build. May need to rethink that now. They talk about a controller adding redundancy to the system but that doesn't help when the controller fails.

I had the base unit die on me too at this time last year. It was likely from getting wet as well. Like you I switched everything over to analog timers while I sent the device back to Neptune. They fixed it for around $60 and had me back in operation after about 4 weeks. I've been using a Neptune controller since 2008 and this was my second hiccup. Both were my fault and both were repaired, the first under warrantee. All things considered I couldn't have gotten this far without one. However it would be a good idea to have at least one independent circulation pump.

Did you deal with Neptune Systems directly or from the dealer? I got mine through Concept Aquariums.

If I had just recently purchased it I might have tried dealing with my dealer but because the warrantee period had already passed I spoke with Neptune directly. https://www.neptunesystems.com/support/contact-support/ They tried to trouble shoot with me a bit but it was pretty apparent that there was nothing that I could do. So they gave me a support ticket number and some shipping directions to send it back. I had to pay for shipping down and the repair but they covered the cost of the return.

When my display died, I dealt directly with Neptune. Faster than going through retailer.

Thanks, I'll troubleshoot it with Neptune and then let them tell me what to do. I only got it in June of this year.

So based on your experience than what would be the right recommendation?
That is have a controller but still have separate systems (that might be controlled to some extent i.e as a timer, a socket (on/off)). What I mean is instead of having the ATO directly managed,connected and controlled by the controller, have for example the Tunze Osmo.. connected to the controller. Therefore if the controller dies at least you have the ATO functional after you plug it directly into the wall. The alternative is to have the controller using all the right accessories manage everything?

I'm comfortable with my controller handling all of the conveniences. ATO, lights on and off, cooling fan, C02 solenoid or dosing pumps etc. But if possible I like the idea of having at least one circulation pump or powerhead plugged directly into the wall. That way if the controller goes down I don't lose critical flow. Without flow, oxygen can quickly deplete causing the inhabitants to suffocate. I feel confident that my tank will be fine without its ATO, lights, supplements etc for a day or two while I convert everything back to hardware store timers and top off the evaporation myself. But I don't think it could last for more than a few hours without flow.

I would totally agree with this approach. I've had my GHL Profilux controller for the past 5 years and luckily have never had it fail (knock on wood). However, if it did fail I would be in the same boat as you, completely dead in the water ( pun intended ). For this reason it is always a good idea to have backups (or backup plan) (equipment and sources of power) for the essentials as whatcaneyedo suggested.

Can you not set initial state for the Apex power bars? I don't know much about the Apex just that it can be done with Profilux so something to check into. Seems like it would solve the problem. I also run one slave powerhead on completely separate circuit as a last resort back up.

2.3.2.2 Set inital states
If the Powerbar-PAB doesn’t receive commands anymore over a minute (e.g. since the bus has been interrupted, ProfiLux is switched off or is defective, …), the sockets of the Powerbar-PAB can be switched due to safety reasons into a predefined state (on or off). The initial state can be programmed separately for each socket. For example it can make sense to keep the filter switched on. On the other side it is better to switch off the heating in case of an error so that the aquarium is not overheated.

Yes the Apex has Fallback statements that can be set for every outlet incase the power bar loses contact with the base unit. So that is all fine and dandy unless a problem happens with the power bar and not the base unit... or if anyone is using a DC8 (from the old AquaControllers) on their Apex.

I've never had my Profilux fail but it's good to know that the power bars will behave this way. Unfortunately, the original poster doesn't doesn't use Profilux, he uses the Apex system by the sounds of it. Are they compatible ? I didn't think that they were.

Apex does provide for outlet condition in the event of failure. My pumps are set to fail on.

As already posted above :) I would think it's as likely a manual timer fails as much as the actual power bar, so always a chance something goes. It's the life we live -lol

Or better yet, the power in your house goes (for over 24 hours). I love those ones.

Or your city fills with water. :)

Ya, that was also a fun one! This year I have bets on a winter blizzard (aka Snowpocalypse) taking out The Grid.

I have an apex controller and all I have plugged into it is 1 heater. I have 3 other power bars and they are plugged to separate outlets. I don't understand the programming so it's useless to me. Oh it does tell me the temp and ph.

Snowpocolypse - nice one....:lol:

You have about a thousand hobbyists in town, recruit some for assistance! The heater code is no easier than most other code, so if you got that one, you can do the rest!

Ya, put some faith in that expensive heater controller you bought !!

My RKE has all kinds of stuff, well everything, running my tank
But lots of critical stuff is set to fail on in case of a loss of signal from the head unit

All you can do is set it up as best you can and cross your fingers in case that 'one thing' happens
Otherwise, there's no point having a controller at all ...

If the problem occurs at the power bar that should trigger an error at the base unit and therefore trigger an alarm or notification. Obviously there is no full proof solution but having a controller with these safety features seems much more reliable than the alternative.