Quarantine Practices
 

Hey all just almost done battling a nasty ich out break in my tank. The whole 9 yards netting all the fish QT, hypo... all the good stuff.... Only 5 fish made it out of the ich/treatment ordeal out of 15. and now after 8 isn weeks they are ready to go back into the main

Ich fooled me once and now I'm on the fool me twice shame on me part


So onto the Question

Im Planning on setting up a more permeant Qt tank to restock the main tank. I got a 30 gallon or 55gallon that ill be setting up and cycling and got a few months to figure out everything (Thailand for holidays for all of march Booyeah)

What do you guys do for QT?
Do you prophylactically do hypo or copper ? Or watch and see ?I'm not one to bomb copper/hypo on healthy fish if not needed
How long do you Qt new fish before adding ?
How many fish would be ok at a time say in the 30g?


Thanks
Craig Dillman

I have a tank transfer set up in my basement. I've lost fish to hypo, and lost fish to copper, but I've never lost a fish to the tank transfer. I do it prophylactically with every fish that comes in, and I dose Prazipro for two of the 3 days transfers.

Ok I think that's what I'm going to look at setting up when I get back, seems to be the least harsh on the fish and I'm with you I lost a few fish in hypo that I don't think was needed and that i don't think the ich got weather it was the hypo it self or maybe ammonia spikes

+ 1
I have been down that route as well, so tank transfer is all I do now

http://atj.net.au/marineaquaria/3daytransfer.html

So you think if i picked up another 30 gallon or 20 gallon that would work?

Or is 30 gallon over kill and i could just get 2 20 gallons ?

or get a 20 gallon and only fill the 30 gallon with 20 gallons of water?



Also how many fish would you do at one time with this method? 3-4 at a time i assume?

If the fish are small, I have used two 5 gal pails. (20 liters)
Again, it depends on the size of fish. You would not put a 4" tang into a 5 gal pail.
On the last day in the "tank" I feed a lot, and before bedtime, I put a black plastic bag over the tank. Then in the morning when its still dark in the tank I transfer.

Ah ok, well i think i will set up a couple tanks either 2 20gallons or 2 29 gallons

Chloroquine phosphate is another good medication to consider instead of hypo or copper.

I've been happy with my 15 gallon tanks for the transfer because:

a) they almost fit in my laundry room sink and are super easy to clean out

b) they don't take up a lot of space. I have both of them in the place I used to have my 40 gallon QT tank

c) 5 gallons doesn't give you much room for error in terms of feeding and ammonia control, 15 gallons is a little more forgiving.

and d) saves a bunch o' money on salt. You'd go through twice as much salt doing a transfer protocol using 30 gallon tanks.

I don't buy large fish as a general rule (I'd rather they get large in my tank!), but I did do the TT protocol on a medium sized copper band and two smaller fish at the same time and 15 gallons didn't seem to be a problem for them. Having a smaller footprint seemed to make it easier for the CBB to figure out how to eat prepared food, is it wasn't so dispersed.

Yea thats a good idea thats what i was worried about 30 gallons is a lot of WCs

Also what do you think about a mandarin going throughout this process

Yah, it's a really labour intensive process. The most sweat equity needed of any of the treatment methods. Just like tank maintenance, you're more likely to do it 'right' if you make it as easy and quick to do as possible. I'm not sure I'd love the fish I was treating much if I had to clean 30 gallon tanks 4 times in 12 days.

The other good thing about the TT method is that you really think hard about all those fish you see in the store and go 'oooooo' over. Knowing that your'e committed for 12 days of work is a strong deterrent to impulse purchasing.

Why don't you guys just bleach the water and then dechlorinate? You don't have to throw the water out when you do tank transfers.

Yea I don't mind putting in the work after this ich ordeal and I've learned a lot with these fish in hypo so I'm prepared to do all the work before hand so the acutal process is easier when it comes time to do it

I have lots of heaters, 3 air stones, 2 hob filters and a few crappy powerheads I'll just look to pick up some 15ish gallon tanks

They're tricky, but they're tricky fish in general. I'm 2 for 2 on failures with them now, but the first one I think was beyond the point of no return when I got it, it never ate, or even swam more than was necessary to keep itself in one spot and didn't survive a week, the second one came through the transfer just fine, at least as well as any other fish. I didn't treat the second one with prazipro though as it was suggested that doing so might have prevented the first one from eating. However, the second one ate from day one.

However, it just bit it in my display. I have no idea why. It went from active and feeding one day, to dead the next morning. It was only in the display a few days.

I had a mandrin that lasted over a year till ich/hypo treatment killed it it started in a 30 gallon and moved to the 125 when I upgraded so I will be doing another mandrin again for sure

Do you have a process you go by for how much bleach to use and how to be sure it is all removed?

When using tank transfers, does the fish go into the display at the end or into QT for observation?

I use sodium thiosulphate for dechlorinating. It works very well. If you mix 60 grams into a total volume of 500 mL of RO/DI water then 1 mL of sodium thiosulphate solution will dechlorinate 1 mL of 5.5% household bleach (check the label for concentration as some have changed to 8.5%). Chlorine strips for pools are cheap and can confirm, but this recipe works fine.

When using tank transfers, does the fish go into the display at the end or into QT for observation?[/quote]

Into the display provided all is good and they are eating well.

Where can I buy sodium thiosulphate?

Hmmm, you've caught my interest with this. I have used the hypo method with good success. But the downside is that it takes a long time, usually about 2 - 3 months the way I do it. And you always need a mature QT running and ready.

The TT method seems a lot faster. And I have a lot of those old 5g salt pails available. Instead of using new fresh SW mix, any problems with just using some stored DT water from a water change? As I said, I have a lot of those salt buckets, so can easily do that. What about filtration, or is 3 days not enough time to worry about that? As the final step before the DT, I can transfer them to my QT to observe them a bit longer.

Yea I'll be getting a pair of 20 gallons for the tt method when I get back from my trip and sell the current 55 qt

I use water from the display, the first time, the fish have to be acclimated.
For me, I see a win win because I am also changing the DT water.
I feed minimal for two days then a lot the last night. Before going to bed I put a black plastic bag over the pail (I have aeration in the pail) and remove it just before I transfer
I don't put them into QT after, just into DT. I don't use filtration. The first two pails the fish are in, usually gets prazipro treatments.

Do you provide any light for the pail? And maybe a PVC pipe for their security comfort? Assume you have a heater in the pail.

My thinking of the QT (since I have it already set up anyway) is just for observation before going into the DT. I would think it would be pretty hard to observe them in a pail, especially if they are hiding. And I want to be sure they are feeding well.

Sure would be nice to cut down my QT period from 2+ months to maybe 2 weeks. Not that I buy a fish very often..., but sometimes I see one at J&L or elsewhere, but don't want to bring it home because how long it will take.

I buy it from www.florida-aqua-farms.com although I imagine it can be bought on Amazon or such.

There is a pipe or Y or T fit to the size of each fish. I have never had more than 4 small, maybe 1.5 in fish at a time. Heater yes, with airstone, no light. Just ambient room light, of which we have a lot = windows. Loose fitting lid.
All uneaten food is siphoned out after about 20 min.

Thanks, Dietmar, that is excellent information. Doesn't sound too difficult. Might give it a try next time.

transfer tank questions
 

Going to get a couple of Banggai Cardinals and was going to set up a QT but looking like it's basically this transfer tank method.

Plan was to use a 15g (rather than my previous 33g QT with skimmer, etc), fill from display system and refill display with new SW. I'll throw in a heater and use a small HOB filter with some carbon mainly for circulation, PVC pieces for shelter. Could also do some LR as got lots in my sump that planning on removing anyway.

I'll siphon out uneaten food and waste but some questions:
-figure change out 1/2 volume, would every couple of days be okay
-how long to leave the fish in, 2 weeks and no signs of ich etc, then okay to add to display?

I had a crazy idea of taking my 55 gallon QT and putting a baffle in it and making it into 2 tanks for tank transfer method? would that work

[quote=mark;882646

Plan was to use a 15g (rather than my previous 33g QT with skimmer, etc), fill from display system and refill display with new SW. I'll throw in a heater and use a small HOB filter with some carbon mainly for circulation, PVC pieces for shelter. Could also do some LR as got lots in my sump that planning on removing anyway.

I'll siphon out uneaten food and waste but some questions:
-figure change out 1/2 volume, would every couple of days be okay
-how long to leave the fish in, 2 weeks and no signs of ich etc, then okay to add to display?[/QUOTE]

Please see my previous link to the site where I found out about this method.
Remember you need two of everything so that nothing follows from one transfer to the other. Two nets, (if you net the fish) two thermometers, two heaters, two airlines, or as you want two HOBs ,two sets of PVC etc
I do not change the water in-between transfers. I have two ammonia badges that I check constantly and have not needed to chg water.
If you use carbon then that will take out the prazipro, if you use it.
I use aeration because it is gentle.
Craig, remember you have to dry and wash the tanks in between transfers, and you do not want the fish to jump to the next chamber.I put a loose fitting lid on the pails and the aeration ensures fresh O2 all the time
One tank,two sections would be too scary for me. I sometimes wipe everything with a bit of bleach inbetween
If you google tank transfer, there is a lot of reading available, people have been doing this for a long time.

Yea lol after some thought better to have 2 tanks lol just figured it would be kinda cool