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-   -   Field Trial of Ultralith System as of May 24/10 (http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=45707)

michika 03-11-2009 06:49 AM

Photos look great.

What kind of time daily, weekly, etc. do you put in with this system?

Fauna Marin 03-11-2009 08:23 AM

HI

This montipora need full light and very very low nutrition to
increase the coloration.

Please change 50 % of the ultralith now
add 0.5 ml more BAK and let run the system.

Be careful with the carbon i cannot say something to that carbon
no experience with this brand

Greets claude

bigblack 03-11-2009 09:30 AM

Great thread been thinking of going on ultra, But one thing concerns me I am using h20 ocean salt right now and did not know it was a rebadged red sea salt !!! I feel quite ripped off since this is much more expensive the RSCS, I was told that this was a high quality salt, going to have a word with my LFS. If i go on ultra should i stop using this salt and change to something else that is high quality, what should i change to?

Aqua-Digital 03-11-2009 01:08 PM

We suggest using Reef Crystals this has been tested to be the most stable and also works well with Ultra Lith

fencer 03-11-2009 02:12 PM

Catherine I spend about 5 minutes a day dosing Ultra additives and water change weekly.

Claude

I will do this tonight

Change 50 % of the ultralith
Add 0.5 ml more BAK to a dosage of 1 ml/day

I don't really see any problems with the carbon. but if you would private message me I will consider changing to your recommended carbon or tell me what you are looking for in selecting carbon. How often do you change Carbon?

Aqua-Digital 03-11-2009 02:19 PM

Hiya

In regards to carbon, Claude developed Ultra CarbL this is lab tested not to have any impurities. the other important thing with carbL due to the way it is processed the carbon last a lot longer than other carbons of similar quality on the market and as such cuts down maintenance times and costs in the running of

Here is the blurb

Ultra-Carb L is an acitvated carbon specifically made for permanent and long-term use.

Extremely pure, vapour-activated and pre-washed activated carbon for efficient removal of yellowness, turbidity and harmful toxins, essential for maintaining good water quality in any aquarium. Ultracarb is almost entirely free of phosphate and has an extremely high capacity. Ultracarb is specifically made for permanent and long-term use but should be exchanged every 30 days. Suitable for freshwater and marine aquaria, cleans the water without any negative side effects.

christyf5 03-11-2009 03:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aqua-Digital (Post 398117)
Hiya

In regards to carbon, Claude developed Ultra CarbL this is lab tested not to have any impurities. the other important thing with carbL due to the way it is processed the carbon last a lot longer than other carbons of similar quality on the market and as such cuts down maintenance times and costs in the running of

Here is the blurb

Ultra-Carb L is an acitvated carbon specifically made for permanent and long-term use.

Extremely pure, vapour-activated and pre-washed activated carbon for efficient removal of yellowness, turbidity and harmful toxins, essential for maintaining good water quality in any aquarium. Ultracarb is almost entirely free of phosphate and has an extremely high capacity. Ultracarb is specifically made for permanent and long-term use but should be exchanged every 30 days. Suitable for freshwater and marine aquaria, cleans the water without any negative side effects.

Hey, not to hijack your thread Fencer but I just finished a large container of UltraCarbL, there were a ton of little white granules towards the bottom of the container, what the heck were these things and were they supposed to be in there? can they go in with the carbon into the tank??

Thanks :biggrin:

Aqua-Digital 03-11-2009 03:50 PM

This is just binding residue should look like tiny white bits.

fencer 05-18-2009 05:15 AM

Notes
The use of this system has a an unexpected side effect all the softies are doing very well in the tank. I had trouble getting duncans to grow which now not an issue. The other issue is that it has spurred the growth of Apistia. SPS polyp extension has been excellent and growth has been good. I have plans to increase the lighting of the tank to 250 MH to increase growth rates.


Prams May 17

Some pictures will follow.

Ca...450 ppm
Mg...1400 ppm
Potassium....not done
pH...7.92
dKH.....7.4
Phosphate...less than 0.15ppm
Nitrates.... 3 ppm (due to the introduction of fish)
Salinity 32 ppt
Conductivity.....55.5 mEq
Redox...avg 320 mV( would like it higher)


I would like to review:

Currently I am dosing:

PT 1.........5 ml
PT 2.........10 ml
PT 3.........10 ml
PT 4.........5 ml
MinS.......3 ml
Bak...........1.0 ml
Bio............4 drops every week
zeolite........0.5 l added an additional 0.5l
Amin...........not dosing
Organic ......not dosing
10% water change/week
Carbon change one / month
Phosphate remover......not using

fencer 05-20-2009 10:50 PM

Here are some picture shots as of May 20 under 12K/Actininc VHO's:

http://i496.photobucket.com/albums/r...t/DSCN5176.jpg

http://i496.photobucket.com/albums/r...t/DSCN5180.jpg

Here is the same filed with 14K MH and actinics much earlier

http://i496.photobucket.com/albums/r.../DSCN5147a.jpg

http://i496.photobucket.com/albums/r.../DSCN5150a.jpg


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