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I see the main problem over here:
You are disheartened and panicking. Do a water change on yourself :). A bristle star being sucked up the powerhead and hermits molting should NOT let you down. There are cases where anemones get sucked up in powerhead and the whole tank gets nuked and still people didn't loose hope. Its all about taking up challenges. If something goes wrong, you should become more persistent to solve it than just giving up. My POV for the high nitrate: the nitrate must have risen initially, the hermits started dying one by one and hence the nitrates just keeps on adding up. There are loads and loads of great people out here who are willing to help, for example Denny (reefwars). :) |
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The cyano in my main display system makes me want to smash it with a sledgehammer. Badly. But, I know it will pass. What you're going through will pass as well. We will get it figured out. Don't worry. You have an amazing resource at your fingertips, here. I'm going to re-read your thread to see if anything jumps out at me. |
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realistically at this time there shouldnt be any livestock like snails or shrimp, crabs etc. (right after the cycle) this is the ideal time to do the large water change , like you mentioned earlier 100% is even fine and alot of people do that. if you experience a rough cycle with high amonia and dont do this it just keeps getting built up. the daily water changes will in fact bring them down , its just more to me of a time consuming thing and if theres any animals they arnt gonna benefit from the stress and changing conditions. what happens more often then not is this scenario here where people try to deal with the high nitrates after they have added animals not after the cycle, now it has to be done slower and more work involved as your adding pollution to the tank reguarily. |
Nanoreefnewbie, what nitrate test are you using. Also, can you post the rest of your parameters and what tests you're using for them? Honestly, I don't trust your test at this point.
If you did a 50% change, that would have brought your nitrates down to 20ppm. A 25% change the next day would have brought them down to 15ppm. 25% the next day would bring them down to 11.25ppm, then 8.43ppm, then 6.32ppm . . . on day six 4.74ppm. Of course, nitrate would be building at the same time, so it would probably take a week or more to get the nitrates below 5ppm. Only the first water change would have a huge effect on the levels, and the effect becomes less and less with each water change. Have you recorded your daily nitrate levels? If so, can you share them? |
I just read through the whole thread and have a couple questions.
1. Are you using RO/DI water? 2. On page one you said you were using 1lb of live rock and 39 of dead rock. Did you actually do this? If you did then there's no way that your tank would be biologically stable enough yet for any inhabitants. You should've had at the very least half of the rock live rock, especially if its a nano. This can explain why your nitrates were high and stayed high. |
the other thing right now i would be asking myself is if any of my critters are being harmed or in harm right now??
if not then your on the good side of the battle , now time is on your side to start attacking the little things. post your exact routine including water parameters(amonia,nitrates,phosphates,salinity,tem p) pos your equipment and ligts as well. post what you have in your tank...literally everything that youve added or died. sand? this sump you speak of , whats in it and how are you running it?? nitrates are honestly an easy thing to get rid of , just takes some elbow grease and patience:) |
What silicone did you use for your sump?
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Andyes starters tank like this did research has and was told I can do this tank was covered with hair algea and was told safe too add clean up crew |
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Test your fresh ro/di water with your test kit. The results should read zero. If you are getting any sort of reading then I would say the test kit is faulty. 2lbs of live rock over this amount of time and the number of water changes you have done shouldn't still be adding to your nitrate problem. What was your dry rock source?
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Also should I be running a bio wheel on my filter on the back? |
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You definitely can't use just any old silicone, that will definitely cause problems!
I use SCS1200 made by GE. You can find it at contractors store, not Home Depot. |
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Sorry for the confusion. GE makes about 100 different kinds of silicone. The ones you get from Home Depot are the silicone I and II, don't use this. Get the SCS1200 which you get from a contractors store. Or get the stuff from the LFS.
Again sorry for the confusion. |
Well here are perimeters again
My unmixed ro water all read zero even nitrates so not faulty or out dated kit... For saltwater in tank(not in mixing bucket) Ph 7.8 Ammonia 0.25 ppm (shocked cause been zero for weeks now) Nitrite 0ppm Nitrate :sad: 40-80ppm:twised: Phosphate 0.5ppm Temp 78-79 degrees Sality1.026-.027 |
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Hang in there bud, we're here to help trouble shoot with.
1st. GE SCS1200 ( clear or black ) is the absolute only thing to use. It what all the GOOD tank builders use & I am sure if you need some Concepts can hook you up. I'm just going to throw this out there, if I read correct you got the tank used & if so you can't always be sure of what was in it before. When I get a tank that I am going to use for salt I peel out the inside cornor beads & reseal unless I absolutely 100% trust the person I got it from. 2nd. It might be an idea to see if there is someone close to you with a large system that has some extra rock in there sump that you could swap with to seed the rock faster to see if that helps. Some rock can be very absorbant & depending on how long it was in a system it might have absorbed a tone of crap. I have a few 100 lbs of dry rock & when I want to add a nice piece to the tank I throw it in my big sump for a few weeks after a good soak / wash in RO water ( my whole house is RO water so it's easy for me ). Then I move it to where ever I want it. If I was closer I would gladly do it for you. 3rd. Defenitly check the test kit like others suggest. May be take a water sample to a fellow reefer or LFS ( Golds, Oceans, Wei's or there is 2 guys at Big Al's that really know there stuff Ryan is one of them but can't remember the other guys name ) If I have repeated some of what others have suggested, my bad, I just skimmed your posts to see what issues your having. I will go back & read it again to see if anything pops out at me. |
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On another note is anyone out there where I can swap some half live rock over for some live rock too help me jump start fastr and take more bio load:redface:... |
The one thing about a used tank is you don't know really what was in it & if there where any meds used. Silicone can absorb all kinds of crap if it is old & leach out in saltwater.
I seen the parameters & I think something is off with your nitrate test. Might be a faulty test kit, it happens some times. Even if it test zero in RO doesn't mean it's good. |
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come see me ill trade you some good live rock for your dry rock i have a liverock bin you can choose some pieces out of, we can also go over your water if you bring a sample and i can show you some of the set ups here , all are basic easyily ran set ups. |
Attaboy Denny, take care of our nanoreefnewbie.
Take your test kits with you so Denny can check them with his water. |
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If I'm over whelming you just tell me to shut up until you catch up :biggrin:
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One ? I forgot to ask, was the sand new or used?
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