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-   -   MitchM tank build (http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=68121)

MitchM 01-03-2011 03:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by golf nut (Post 578465)
I agree 100% it wasn't designed to do that, just to show how using inlets and outlets correctly can greatly increase the flow potential, and to show that you do not need a dirty great big box in the tank to get far more movement than a wave box could ever achieve.

Plus the point that already having a Profilux the last thing I want to add is another controller.:wink:
They sound like great pumps.
I wonder if a Profilux could accomplish the same timing for someone that would want that type of water movement?

Red Coral Aquariums 01-03-2011 10:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MitchM (Post 577627)
Hi Kevin,

The holes in the top are 2 1/4", the holes in the back are 2 1/2".

That's a good point about the heaters. I wonder how much heat the tank would lose? I heard that acrylic had some insulating properties, plus I'll also be using lids on the tank.
I'm not too concerned about the temporary loss of filtering at this point. I don't want a heavily stocked tank. The tank feedings could occur near the end of the rest cycle.

If I went with your last setup suggestion, I would still need to drill a couple of holes for the sump return, wouldn't I?

As stated before the reeflo dart golds are great pumps (from customer and my personal viewpoint) but I have never had any experience with starting and stopping them on a daily or hourly basis (really not recommended) . I would though recommend your return from your sump to be a constant. You should not need any more holes drilled to accomplish your required tasks. Mitch it looks like you have some options on your 5/1/5 flow pattern which is great.

Kevin

mr.wilson 01-03-2011 11:14 PM

The Profilux can control a wide variety of pumps including the Abyzz. The Abyzz controller has pump temp, RPM, water sensor, and wattage draw which you can't get with aquarium controllers. Whether you need these features or not is another matter :)

Make sure if you have a variable water level in your sump that your skimmer isn't adversely affected. You can have it shut off on the same timer, if you go that route.

lastlight 01-03-2011 11:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mr.wilson (Post 578567)
The Profilux can control a wide variety of pumps including the Abyzz.

Oh I didn't know that. So you can buy these pumps without controllers. Also nice to know.

mr.wilson 01-04-2011 01:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lastlight (Post 578581)
Oh I didn't know that. So you can buy these pumps without controllers. Also nice to know.

The pump comes with a power supply with alarms for power or water shortage. There is a rheostat to manually set the pump output/RPM.

The cool thing about brushless DC pumps is they use less energy at lower RPMs. When you turn the 420 watt pump down to 65% capacity, it only uses 94 watts. A cycle of 35% for 10 seconds and a pulse of 65% for 2 seconds uses much less energy and gives the same net flow (without waves).

I tested a DC pump out of The Netherlands recently. It;s half the price and almost half the electricity, but the magnet on the pump stated to show rust pitting after three months use.

There are a few companies working on brushless DC pumps. Wait 6-12 months and you will see them replacing Iwaki and Sequence etc. For now, the price puts them out of reach for most.

DiverDude 01-04-2011 01:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mr.wilson (Post 578375)

I like the faux rock ! I would mind doing something like that to the back wall of my next tank. Can anyone tell me what this is called and point me at a DIY thread ???

mr.wilson 01-04-2011 02:01 AM

There are lots of threads on aragocrete, spray foam, and epoxy faux rock.

http://reefcentral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1300282

MitchM 01-04-2011 09:36 AM

Thanks, everyone.
With regards to the actual building progress, my work has taken up pretty much 100% of my building time for the past month.
I think I can get the stand built this coming weekend, but I'm not sure if I will get the actual tank on the stand.
I'm looking forward to designing the back wall that is going to accommodate the mechanical support system.

mr.wilson 01-04-2011 02:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MitchM (Post 555826)
Hi Tony,

I'm following Ron Shimek's guidelines as best I can that I found here:

http://www.ronshimek.com/deep_sand_beds.html

Particle size distribution:

0.1-0.5 mm = 80%
0.1-0.75 mm = 15%
1.2-1.7 mm = 4%
1.7-2.5 mm = 1%

Here's a link to his discussion about it:

http://forum.marinedepot.com/Topic70...hlight=dsb+0.1

I am trying for a 4" or better depth.

Mitch

Ron Shimek's sand formula is a good one, but it leaves out one important factor... scratching acrylic. I use Special grade with some extra shells and coarse sand mixed in. This way you are less likely to stir it up and get it stuck in cleaning magnets and it won't scratch the bottom of the viewing panels as much when you use a plastic scraper.

MitchM 01-04-2011 02:50 PM

This is my first acrylic tank, so I need to learn a number of techniques and maintenance schedules that I'm not used to. The special grade is actually too large for keeping a number of different organisms that I would like.


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