exactly

The Lights I had the problem with staying on were also Power Compact florecents no problems with my any of the 3 250 watt MH. For now the problem seams to of corrected it self it hasnt done it for a few days now

Doug

Fluorescent do have ballasts and they cause a start up surge.
But usually this surge peak is not high enough to damage anything.
Can you please tell me the ballast type?

Switching of electronic ballasts (as for the T5 and T8) made never before a problem. We produce dimmable lighting units which include relays for switching on/off the lamps. Last year we sold about 1500 dimmable lamps and we never had a problem with a defective relay. So i wonder what the difference is in your cases. We use only Osram (in USA/CD: Sylvania) ballast in our lamps.

Matthias
Thank you for all your support in our forum.
I am really puzzeled myself as the units that we used have never acted up this way.
I am not sure what the problem is but not everyone is experiencing this ,I think it might be a problem with install & or setting choice.
I am going to also ask Marc tomorrow in regards to this as well.
I know he has 3 powerbars & they are all operational.
I will keep you posted

Matthias,

Will the firmware 3.00 be available by February? Also, could you give me any more details in regards to the new dosing funtionality included in the 3.00 release?

Thanks in advance for your assistance,

Chris

Jason

If it was the programing the LED indicator would not go out it would stay on to indicate that the outlet still has power I dont know about every one else but on mine the LED goes out. am sure we will come up with a solution sooner or later :)

Doug

the led goes out on mine as well even though the lighting is still on. so it cant be a programming issue because the controller has sent a signal to the powerbar which opens the relay and turns off the led. when i do fix it, i can hear the relay close again. it has happened with metal halides and t5's. i've heard today that when other controllers first came out and released in north america there was similiar issues with the power bars. i'm assuming it has something to do with the conversion to 110v

let's summarize:
bullit67: the LED and socket work simultanesly, but they don't do what you expected. Maybe the wrong settings. If you can't solve this you can send me your configuration files (save Profilux's config with ProfiLuxControl), tell me what exactly you want to do and what the problem is. I'll have a look onto your settings and find the problem.
niloc16: LED and socket don't work simultanesly - we have an inrush current problem.
I had a discussion with an engineer of the manufacturer of the relays. He told me that the relays have the best available contact material for switching high currents. The limit is 120A for 20ms. If this is exceeded the contacts become to hot while switching, the contacts glue together. Because USA/CD only have 110V the currents are usually 2 times higher than in Europe, so an overload condition can be reached faster.
Devices with high inrush-currents are: Transformers, ballasts, switching power supplies, large electro motors. Good devices usuallay have an inrush-limiter included to protect switches or fuses of the power supply. But some of them do not - and they could cause this trouble.
Solution:
1. if possible use inrush current limiters (so called ILC) for your application when there are problems
2. I decided to ship the next generation of powerbars (the digital ones) with buil-in ICLs. Four channels will be protected (disadvantage of them: 8A permanent current), 2 channels will have full 15A and are not protected.
The powerbars have been redesigned, production starts today.

@mnsps:
The firmware will be available this month, the new ProfiLux shipped to Proline will allready have the 3.00

Firmware 3.00 will have some new controlling features.
Besides the standard controlling mode (switching with hysteresis) we added new modes. Now are proportional controllers available with adjustable pulse/pause times.
It is too much and too complicated to explain this detailled here so please have a look to the new manual - we added some pages in it! The translation will be available soon, i will post when the download is possible.

so can we trade in our old power bars for the new ones? i apologize for not knowing electrical theory well but if these new bars with ILC will only carry 8A each continous will that still power 400w halides? why is it a disadvantage to only have 8A per outlet?

Colin, the 400W halide has a current of app. 400W/110V = 3.7A, let's say 4A.
->That is no problem.
I am not sure if it is a disadvantage, maybe someone wants to connect heaters with 10A or more? But for this purpose there are still the 15A non-protected outputs.

Well
I just got off the phone with Matthias,We have a solution everyone will be extremly happy with.
For all the existing Profilux owners we will exchange one of their bars to the new 6 socket powerbars you will get a full credit for the powerbar you are returning ,The only cost to you will be the price difference of the the 6D & 4D powerbars .
What this will do for you
1- you will have the digital bar that enables you to chain more bars to it
2- ICL in the bar will fix the current issue with the use of MH on curent bars
3- More features
All the new units sold will come with a 4d & a 6d bar instead of 2x 4d bars
Once again thanks to matthias for great service .
Please visit the store you purchased your unit from for details.
I will make a post here as soon as the new shipment lands ,I was told it be in 3 weeks:biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: (Hi Matthias:multi: )
Also more to come soon ,Leak detector ,Disolved oxygen card ,
Disolved oxygen & Ph combo card ,disolved oxygen Probe
Of course we are working on the Dimmable ballast as we speak ,this will be offered in DIY kits & fixtures very soon.
Jason

thank you very much matthias and jason. that is customer service if i do say so myself.

You are still up colin :mrgreen:
hay leave the tank alone:biggrin: :biggrin: ,I know you are fiddling with something in there right now .:lol:
That's what happens when you set up a new tank ,hand in water all the time syndrome ,at least for me for the first 6 months of each tank until I can't think of changing anything or a new piece of equipment comes out that I can use.
Good night bud

I received my Profilux Plus II controller last night. Here some pictures:

Profilux Plus II controller
Attachment 962
Backside of Profilux controller.
Attachment 963
Ph, Temp, Conductivity and Redox probes.
Attachment 964

Tunze Stream connection cables. Float switch and mounting hardware. Serial connection cable.
Attachment 967
Wireless LAN and Redox/Conductivity expansion cards.
Attachment 968
Here's the calibration solutions.
Attachment 969

I received two of the 4 socket power bars, but I'm returning them so I can get two of the 6 socket digital power bars instead. Sorry, no pictures of the power bars. Don't want to break the seals on the packaging.

Is there an optical float switch available?

If I'm connecting two Tunze Stream pumps to the Profilux, do I connect one to L1 L2 and the other to L3 L4? OR do I need to purchase a Y adapter and connect both to L1 L2?

I have to agree with Colin this is great support and will upgrade to a 6D when they are available. Until that point I was going to modify my Dimming Curve to get around the relay sticking. Can anyone see a problem with this setup?

Before: 2 points
1 - 10:30am, 5 minutes, 100%
2 – 6:25pm, 5 minutes, 0%

After: 4 points
1 – 10:30am, 5 minutes, 100%
2 – 6:25pm, 5 minutes, 0%
3 – 6:31pm, 5 minutes, 1%
4 – 6:32pm, 5 minutes, 0%

This causes the socket relay to be quickly turned on and off 1 minute after the light shuts down. This falls within the 5 minute lamp cool-down period for the IceCap ballasts so if the light does go out at 6:30 the power flash at 6:32 doesn’t turn the light back on.

Thanks again

Yes. There is a picture in my thread here: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...383#post230383

I'm wondering this same thing?

Psyire,

Are you using the optical float switch for automatic top off? If yes, what type of pump are you using with it?

I haven't set it up yet, but yeah it will be doing auto-topoff. No pump involved, I think they are too risky.. I use solenoids.

Psyire,

Do you use two solenoids in series just in case one fails?

you bet

Well i have to Say that is awsome customer service A BIG CHEER for Matthias
And Jason keep up the good work guys these controlers are awsome it is nice having so many options in one unit Looking forward to the new firm ware upgrade I can see I am going to have to put in some over time so I can buy some more options for it :) hehe

Doug

Matthias


The LED on mine goes out and the power stays on just so you know I have checked and rechecked the programing and found the same thing as Colin If I reset it to permanent and then go back to clock timer it works for a few days

Dont get me wrong Man I still love this thing looking forward to more stuff to plug into it :)

Doug

i picked up the 3 fan assembly tonight with controller. i have not hooked up the controller because i need a splitter for the outlet but the fans are running and the only way i can tell is put my hand in front. these are absolutely amazing as to how quiet they are. well worth the money. i'll post some pictures tomorrow

@jrm99:
your dimming curve setting - for what is it good for? Now you have 2 times switching on the lamp - that means 2x stress for the relay. I would recommend to alter it again to the first settings.
Quick solution for the moment until the digital powerbar is vailable: An easy way to reduce the inrush-current is to raise up the electric resistance - eg insert a long extension cord between powerbar and lamp. Should be no problem since the average current (after inrush) is not very high.

@MNSPS + Psyire:
You can connect two tunze cables to one port when you use a Y-adapter. If both pumps should be controlled separately the cables must be different: Tunz1 and Tunze2
Or you connect one cable to one port (L1L2) and the other cable to the other port(L3L4) - then both pumps are contollable separately anyway - doesn't matter if tunze1 or 2. But then both ports are occupied for just 2 pumps.
Any 1-10V-port has 2 channels
Tunze1 means: react on first of both channels of one port (L1 or L3)
Tunze2 means: react on secondof both channels of one port (L2 or L4)

MNSPS
I saw your thread on RC ,this is going to be an impresive set up ,good job my friend ,it looks like you have put a lot of time & research into this.
You better make some room for the T5 bulbs in your hood design .
we will have dimmable ballasts soon & profilux can dim the T5 for sunrise & sunset effect ,this feature is already built into your profilux.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...hreadid=939634
great job

support@proline,

Thanks! There will be 4 -48" T5's in the hood along with two halides. I would definitely like to dim the T5's using the Profilux. What type of adapter cable is needed to do this? I also want to use the Profilux controller to control two dosing pumps to add a 2 part calcium additive. I have been looking at the Vario 1 Pro dosing pumps. Do you know what type of dosing pumps other Profilux user’s use? I'm also planning on using the mechanical float switch I received along with an optical float switch for my sump top off. Is there a diagram or picture somewhere that shows how the float switch mounting bracket should be assembled? I tried to assemble it myself and cannot figure it out.

Chris

Chris
I will not be in the office today ,I will post a picture of connection for you hopefully tomorrow .It is very easy to work with.
Dimmable ballasts ,will have a 1-10 v connection which is the part that gets connected to Profilux.
As for the Dosing Pump ,I am not sure what brand the guys in germany use ,I will ask Matthias.He also told me he has a dosing pump in the works ,I am not sure when they will be released though ,I am sure he will chime in.
Jason

Thanks Jason.:smile:

Hi Chris
Here is a picture of the Dimmable T5/T8 module ,very easy to wire the wiring supplied will be hooked to profilux & the ballasts will be wired to the module

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...DSCN2034-1.jpg

Are there going to be any of the GHL dimmable T5 light bars available, and if yes, what will the prices be?

I'm trying to decide between dimmable ballasts to convert my TEK light and GHL lights.

My Profilux II Plus arrived this week and it's a lot of fun figuring out the settings and the many options it offers! :)

Siskiou
Welcome to Canreef
Yes they will be available ,but first we will release the DIY ballast & Module.
I am not sure what the price be just yet ,I will keep you posted.
We will also have fixtures with dimmable ballasts ,I will let you know as soon as I find out more.
Jason

I can't wait to see what new functionality they will be releasing with the Firmware 3.00 especially in regards to dosing. I was going to get a Grotech TEC III NG digital dosing system, but I'm going to wait and see what the new capabilities for dosing pump control will be. Ideally I would like to be able to control two seperate dosing pumps that could be switched on and off on an hourly basis.

Thanks for the welcome!

How soon do you think the DIY ballasts and module are out?
And do you have any idea of the sizes?
I have a Tek fixture and am hoping that they will fit in there.

-Susanne

Hi sussane
I should be able to have an answer for you end of next week.
That is what we are told :mrgreen:
As for size ,We have 2 different samples here ,one is a bit larger than the other ,but these are fully electronic ballasts & very low profile ,smaller than the other T5 ballasts that I have seen.
I will keep you posted as we know more.
Jason

Thanks!

I'm eagerly awaiting more info! :)

Matthias

How offten should I be cleaning the probes or do they need any service? And what is the best way to do it with out damaging them

Thanks
Doug

Hi Proline,

I'm happy I found this thread, since I'm really considering buying the Profilux II controller ! I live in Montreal, Canada.

I'm just a little confused by all the options on it. Can you explain to me how the dimming lights work ? For example, currently I have two Giesemann Nova II lamps (150 watts HQI) with electronic balast. Will I be able to dimm those lights ? If yes, what is required ?

Also, I'm looking at purchasing 2 Sunlight Supply 36" Ready Fit T5 Retrofit Fixtures (2-bulb, 2x39W). It comes completely assembled with TEK Reflectors and a 8' power cord. Features a major brand ballast. My question is, will I be able to dimm those T5 Fixtures with the Profilux II controller, if yes do I have to purchase an extra ballast..or anything else ?

Also, I'm either looking at dosing a two part additif or running a calcium reactor (most likely the Deltec PF501). What would you suggest to use with the Profilux controller ?

One last question, does the Profilux Controller support Bluethooth ?

Thanks,
Ginzo

hello Ginzo,

"I'm just a little confused by all the options on it. Can you explain to me how the dimming lights work ? For example, currently I have two Giesemann Nova II lamps (150 watts HQI) with electronic balast. Will I be able to dimm those lights ? If yes, what is required ?"

Unfortunatly you wont be able to dim these.

"Also, I'm looking at purchasing 2 Sunlight Supply 36" Ready Fit T5 Retrofit Fixtures (2-bulb, 2x39W). It comes completely assembled with TEK Reflectors and a 8' power cord. Features a major brand ballast. My question is, will I be able to dimm those T5 Fixtures with the Profilux II controller, if yes do I have to purchase an extra ballast..or anything else ? "

I would reccomend a call to the manufacturer, if the t-5 ballast is dimmable, then it shouldnt be a problem.
You would need a card for the profilux to accomplish this.

"Also, I'm either looking at dosing a two part additif or running a calcium reactor (most likely the Deltec PF501). What would you suggest to use with the Profilux controller ?"

It really is up to you here, it is capable of running dosers, feed pumps or any comination of them....
I would reccomend a couple of continuous duty dosers. You can also run the ca+ reactor with the doser for a super accurate and consistant effluent rate.

Marc.