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-   -   Opinions appreciated: check valve vs anti-siphon holes in overflow returns (http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=85112)

Myka 04-10-2012 01:49 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by gregzz4 (Post 703343)
I'm going to try this. On the right of the overflow box is a 'Y'
It and the nozzle pointing forward are twisted to their max and cannot point down any farther. This nozzle will be the siphon break
The eggcrate cover won't fit if they change position so it'll alert me if I bump it during maintenance or WHY
Now I can still have the surface flow I was looking for
Hopefully this will eliminate dead spots on the surface corners

I didn't mind your first idea, but this looks good to me too. IME, the loc-lines are pretty stiff so you really have to give them a good knocking to move them. You can always do test runs with the lines lower to see if there is room in the sump. If your sump can handle the flow with the loc-lines at their lowest point then you're covered anyway.

outacontrol 04-10-2012 02:20 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by gregzz4 (Post 703290)
With the limited # of responses to using a check valve, and the thoughts on it fouling etc, that option is off the table.
Have you looked at the George Fisher check vavle http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/...wiss-made.html

They don't have traditional seals to dry out and foul up, and they come apart very easily to clean and maintain.
I have one and love it! I have been using it for about 7 months now.

paddyob 04-10-2012 04:52 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by gregzz4 (Post 703363)
Thanks, that's what I suspected
I'll try my latest configuration and am still contemplating drilled holes, but only as a backup.
I have a lifetime subscription to Back-up magazine :biggrin: but am also trying to go with the KISS method.
Because I haven't tested my system yet with salt, I have no idea what kind of micro bubbles I may end up with due to my current config. This is why I'm leaning towards no holes.
All I can do is try it and worst case I replace the drilled pieces, right?


Holes on the end of your output will lose micro bubbles the same as the siphon holes.

Micro bubbles are a sump set up issue. Not siphon holes. Keep your skimmer in a chamber or two back from your return pump to "eliminate" them.

gregzz4 04-10-2012 06:45 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Myka (Post 703522)
I didn't mind your first idea, but this looks good to me too. IME, the loc-lines are pretty stiff so you really have to give them a good knocking to move them. You can always do test runs with the lines lower to see if there is room in the sump. If your sump can handle the flow with the loc-lines at their lowest point then you're covered anyway.
Thanks, glad to hear that.
IME the L-L will stiffen over time but is quite easy to move right now as it's new.
I had tested the first setup, hence the concern :smile:. This version will have to wait a bit for a test as I'm hoping the next time I fill the system it will be with RO water.

gregzz4 04-10-2012 06:51 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by outacontrol (Post 703534)
Have you looked at the George Fisher check vavle
Thank you. I saw these awhile back but don't think one will work with my system as the only accessible section of plumbing I could unstall it in is a horizontal run. I would be concerned the weight wouldn't function correctly that way.

gregzz4 04-10-2012 07:10 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by paddyob (Post 703560)
Micro bubbles are a sump set up issue. Not siphon holes.
Ah, OK. I was concerned having the outlets semi-submersed would create bubbles. Guess I'll just have to wait and see once I add salt. It's not like I will have huge flow as it's just an Eheim 1262 with about 5-1/2' head. If it was a Mag 9 it would be just over 700gph, according to the RC head loss calculator.

Quote:
Originally Posted by paddyob (Post 703560)
Keep your skimmer in a chamber or two back from your return pump to "eliminate" them.
The skimmer is in the first section and behind a bubble trap. The first baffle is 16-3/4" tall and the last is 16-1/4"
Thanks Paddy

http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/x...d/DSC00905.jpg

outacontrol 04-10-2012 08:28 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by gregzz4 (Post 703597)
Thank you. I saw these awhile back but don't think one will work with my system as the only accessible section of plumbing I could unstall it in is a horizontal run. I would be concerned the weight wouldn't function correctly that way.
The design of them will function best when installed in a vertical pipe, but they should also work on the horizontal aswell. The weight of the stopper is part of the action but alot of the action comes from the water pressure and the valve design. There is a little chamber that deverts some of the back flowing water above the weight, therefore pushing it down.

tim the toolman 04-10-2012 08:37 PM
How many watts of heater r u runnin there? Looks like a lot lol

gregzz4 04-10-2012 08:51 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by tim the toolman (Post 703635)
How many watts of heater r u runnin there? Looks like a lot lol
Hehe, I get that from time to time. It's just redundancy. I had a pair of 250s from my old 125g, but prefer more heaters vs high wattage ones. If a single 200 up and dies, the other 2 can still keep up. If a 250 were to go, a single one would have a hard time.

The 3 x 200W are on the RKE. The 2 x 250W are set a little lower on the Ranco in case either;
-A 200W trips the GFCI
-The RKE craps out in some way


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