Summed everything up in one post...

Summed everything up in one post...

Ok...sorry I am all over the place here.

I will just re-write the questions I am still looking for answers for:

1. Are the greenish beads I have with the unit (on the very top) the water polisher that I need to leave out? I am pretty sure thats what they are but not 100% sure. I think after that last stage (RO membrane) the line should just go to the drain and to the clean water...

2. Can I use the vampire fitting that came with the unit for the drain water? It came with the unit to be used for the supply but I didn't need it for that. I don't see why it couldn't be used on the drain but figured I should ask.

3. Where the waste water leaves the last stage, there is a little valve of some kind...is this to adjust how much water is going out? I think its suppose to be 4:1 right? Does this just stay all the way open?

4. My last unit had the prefilter stage and then two carbons before the RO membrane on top. This one only has one carbon in the middle and some kind of paper towel looking thing. What is this? SHould I switch it to carbon?

5. Since this is very cold water going through the unit and thats not ideal, do I need to lessen the flow through the unit? What are the long term effects with using such cold water? Any tips?

And again, thanks everyone. I would be sooooo lost without this place!

Ok for the leak if you still have it on the grey supply with brass fitting use plumbers tape that should solve it.

1- the beads in the clear canister is the di resin it should be left in.
2-yes the vamp fitting can go on the drain line do it under the dishwater return on the straight part.
3-the valve on mine is about half meaning it lets less water drain hence making the filtering alittle slower but not by much.
4-it is fine the way they have made it, if I remember correctly there is 2 pre sediment filters and 1 carbon.
5- the cold water may cause condensation if your house is warn to solve this problem use the plastic planting trays to put under the unit there may only be slight condensation so a shallow tray is more than enough.

your welcome.

Did you get the leak fixed? could be the ferrel ring is facing the wrong way.

1.green beads the di part of the ro/di
2.concern I would have with the vampire valve is know at least with mine, with the valve full open there's still some restriction and I've had to replace mine once as well as the rubber swelled . The waste should be unrestricted.
3.the valve is a flow restrictor/flushing valve (the unit needs some back pressure to force water through the membrane), normally the handle is 90° the the line for operation, turn open to clean the membrane
4.running my Aquasafe with the standard filters, seems to work okay
5. sorry if confused that one. You run the valve full open. What I was meaning cold water decreases the efficiency of the unit. Feeding the unit warm water would be better be not easily done, don't connect to the hot line as will wreck the membrane. Read on the Aquasafe site a while back the the gpd rating is at something like 77° and a certain PSI and for every degree below, down rate the unit by ~1.6% (believe these where the numbers)

Ok, thanks Mark and Chris. You guys have been a great help!

The valve on the waste line on my unit is not like a usual ball valve or anything, its some little metal one that you turn (or spin really) and actually I don't like it! Its hard to figure out. Otherwise, everything seems to be working fine now.

Valve might the variable flow restrictor that Aquasafe sells as a extra.

I've got one (in addition to the flush valve) and use it to add just my waste ratio to 4:1. Found it helps.